RenaissanceMan

Hope someone not from the states can answer this for you, though I imagine with a whopping 800cc of fury you'll get better milage than my motorcycle...

So I have an offer to take a 76 4wd wagon with an ea63 for $600.00 The condition for its age is truly amazing. (It even still has the original spare, lol. Car runs fine other than the carburetor needs to be rebuilt. Radiator is fine, no major leaks, brakes are fine. Kindof an amazing little find. OK, so my problem is that I already have a Stage 1 77 4wd wagon, but its a project car... Whats nice is that my 77 has an ea71, and its rough enough that I don't worry about cutting and welding on it. SO... what can you tell me about the mighty ea63? will I get squished like a bug on these california freeways not being able to get up to speed? DO need TWO stage one cars that will BOTH require maintenance? I passed the word along to Rich (subieguy) about the car, and he might be interested in it as well. We'll see if one of us can get some pics later today.

Putting a TD04 on an ea82 isnt the end of the world I guess... You can buy td04 flanges, and they are very similar to the ea82 uppipe flange. Some people like to "ovalize" the rear hole and make a smaller bolt work or something. You can also just buy plasma cut/water cut flanges that have the td04 pattern. What I did was just use longer exhaust studs for the two front holes that line up perfectly, and then for the rear hole I cut a lttle bit off the original uppipe, and when I welded the flange right over the original flange, I left room for a bolt to just come up thru the bottom. Intake side can be interesting.. For what I was already working on with the front mount intercooler etc, leaving the original clocking for the TD04 worked fine, and all I had to do was raise the throttle cable mount. With enough help from an exhaust shop and http://www.silicone intakes.com, you can squeeze something in there that will reach the turbo inlet KEEP IN MIND!!!, ANY LATE MODEL SUBARU TURBO UPGRADE, YOU MUST INSTALL SOMETHING TO CONTROL THE BOOST IF YOU WANT ANYTHING ABOVE 6 LBS! (took us a long time to figure that one out, haha) EJ motors electronically control the boost with a pulse width modulated duty solenoid, and the wastegate by itself is set to only 6 psi. We just installed a manual boost controller (ebay cheapo) to bump up to around 11psi

What procedure did you use to install the timing belts? Its easy to switch the fuel inlet and outlet hoses on these cars if its fuel injected We need a little more info like the year, and which fuel system it has. Carb, SPFI, MPFI, MPFI turbo?? Did you verify that you are getting fuel? Did you verify that you have the wires on so that they match the firing order? (its easy to put the wires on imagining the distributor turns the other direction)

Do you have a 5 lug conversion or something?

you are looking at the same part from two different brands the "NCP" one is "Napa Chassis Parts", which is actually a rebox Spicer part (lifetime warranty too) the "ATM" one is "Altrom" ALtrom is a relatively new company, only working wtih napa for about 2-3 years. They are also a rebox company, but use import manufacturers. Quality is sorta hit or miss. Sometimes you get garbage, sometimes you get exactly the same part as OEM (literally the same thing). Usually warranties are 90 day or 1 year.

honestly I think I would say yes I would do the mod again, but only on a strict offroad basis.. if there was ANY thought of the vehicle being used on tarmac, other than for drag strip, I'd say no don't do it. It kinda makes a 2wd really offroad capable though...

The steering wheel has become a bit less forgiving. Sorta a two hands on the wheel situation. Wider turns are fine. Only time it becomes an issue is in the hairpins. If you aren't going fast enough to swing the rear end around in the hairpin, then it has a major understeer force working against you. Traction is amazing! I will tell you that still. Both wheels hook up out of the corners and off you go. Id say at the last race we were at a disadvantage by just how firm the lake bed was. It was really like rallying on tarmac with dust. On his dirt track at home, or in any lightly loose dirt situations, there is definetly a HUGE advantage in comparison.

agreed

ea82's are non-interference, so when the belt breaks, nothing nasty happens on the inside of the engine. Its really quite simple once you dig down to it. on the flywheel there are timing marks, and a second set of marks that have only 3 hashes... THOSE are the timing belt alignment marks. Start with one side and line the flywheel up with the center mark, and line the "extra hole" on one of the cam sprockets exactly vertical (there will be a notch in the back half of the cam cover to also align with). Loosen the bolts on the cam tensioner and let the spring take up the slack while rotating the engine slightly clockwise with a wrench. Tighten up the tensionser bolts. Rotate the engine 1 revolution... Repeat for other side... Get cyl 1 on top dead center. (fastest way is to put your finger over the spark plug hole while turning the engine by hand). line up the timing marks on the flywheel with what advance your engine should be set to. Line up the dot on the disty gear with the mark on the casting. When stabbing take note of which disty cap post it most closely lines up to. When you stab the distributor, try and make sure the rotor will line up with that post after it is installed. Put everything back on the engine, set the timing by connecting the service connector and with a timing light. Bolt the disty in place..... boom ur done...

probably should move this to the classifieds section on the forum....

Twitch: If your interested in learning about draw thru turbocharged carb systems, I think its carfreak that you want to talk to. IIRC he has a prototype 82 turbocharged carbureted hatch that was used in the movie "cannonball run" One thing that has always had me fascinated about superchargers on the other hand is that if you get something modern like a toyota sc-12 or an eaton M62, etc... they have magnetically actuated clutches... aka you can put a mad max switch on your car! best of luck and dont get discouraged with your projects.

This is the coolest of coolest pictures I have seen all month!!

the location of the air filter wasn't my idea, but he was pretty set on having it stick out the front like that cause it "looked cool" Its his car not mine, so whatever... almost forgot, I uploaded another parade lap video:

OK, I got some pics and vid and stuff from Johnson Lake this weekend, as well as messing around on the track in his yard. And we cant forget our team captain!

The contact area for the welds wouldn't have been enough to where I was confident that they wouldn't fracture. Plus with the tolerences of how close those spider gears fit on the stubs. it would have been quite a challege to keep them EXACTLY aligned with all the warping that goes on from heating and welding. We had to make a "best guess" as to what alloy filler rod to use, and I can't say for sure if it was exactly what we wanted. When this is the case, the more weld the better to reduce the chance of stress fracturing. I'm gonna have to just knock on wood and hope its as strong as it needs to be.

Hey guys, just wanted to give an update on this project. Got the trans resealed and installed. drives awesome!! Going around turns definately requires more HP from the engine, but with a little practice it gets to be second nature to get the back end to swing around. Traction is amazing. If only I can get the engine to run right then we are set (modded the ea82T to fit a TDO4 & 3" downpipe) I will post video hopefully later this week

peer down to the upper passenger side of the transmission case. Kinda near where the dipstick tube is you should be able to see one end of the pushrod for the "low gear" shift fork Here's a pic of an RX FT4wd, but the idea of what the pushrod for low gear looks like is the same:

weeping head gasket? I had a 78 brat that got really hot at idle and at freeway speed but somewhat normal while backroad driving. Couldn't figure out why till the head gasket finally gave up and it was just downhill from there (literally, haha) Good luck, -Mike

SOOO, if one were to persay... put a DC cam in an ea81 that had hydro heads, etc... you could essentially get an ea81 to run.... BACKWARDS!!! hmm... gets the gears turning in my head.

The symptoms you describe sound to me like a leaking float valve in your carb. If you have junk in your fuel line (between the upper filter and the carb) it may keep jamming the valve with particles, giving your car TOO much fuel to the point where it runs like poo -mike

There is also a pin on one of the wiring harness connectors for the engine that is a "turbo ID" pin. I believe grounding it fools the computer into thinking you are driving a turbo engine. If you swapped out to a higher compression, the computer may be using the wrong fuel map? Unfortunately I dont have my FSM in front of me to tell you what pin on what connector.

I don't understand what you need repaired on your wheel? Is it curb rash or something? Is it something where the bead seats? -Mike

You need to have Mr. Sulu to your right shouting "Warp 9.5!, Warp 9.6!, Warp 9.7!...."

Can you buy a drill bit with a 60 degree tip? Anyway, moreso what I was interested in, is that I can drill other bolt patterns to the jig, and re-drill wheels other than 6x5.5 to 4x140. I'm wonderin about maybe something like 4x100 or 5x100 and making a small hub cap that would cover that bolt pattern after being redrilled -Mike