mattocs

Its for the stock 17" rim on a 2009 Legacy 2.5i Special Edition.

I paid $13k last week for a 2009 Legacy 2.5i Special Edition. 40,000 miles. Pretty clean. Check out Edmunds or KBB. I go by trade in value and add $500 or so when making an offer on a car. I'd offer them $10k and go to $12k or so after a few counter offers. If you can't get a good deal move on. Another car will come along. I've overpaid for a car or two and hate when I do that. Good luck.

I've entered the world of modern Subaru and got a 2009 Legacy 2.5i SE. The one rim has a few scuffs on it that I'd like to touch up. Is there an exact match touch up paint for this? One that is pretty close? Thanks.

It got much better in 2005, BUT, there are quite a few 2005 to 2010? that leak.

Check around the drivers door for a sticker or plate that will have a month and year on it.

1996 was the last year for the non-interference EJ22. There may have been a handfull of 1997, but assume all 97 and up 2.2l are interference. All EJ25 are interference, IIRC.

There is nothing wrong with flipping cars. But I'd offer a lot less than asking price and go from there. Get receipts for work done. If they don't have them, then use that against them. Good luck!

Auto or manual? If its an auto and has the 2.2l, then the original engine was probably replaced with the 2.2l when the head gaskets failed. 160k is nothing on a 2.2l. I'm not sure of your location, but if cars where you live are prone to rusting then the car will probably rust out before the engine goes. About the repairs, he is probably a car flipper, if it did have the 2.2l swap. They probably bought the car for $800 or so with a blown engine, a 2.2l engine for a few hundred, and a timing belt kit for a few hundred. So for a $1500 investment they could make some decent money on a days work.

Valvoline MaxLife is compatable with most fluids, including the Subaru fluid, and its great. I started using it in my Hyundai because the SP-III Hyundai fluid is expensive. It says for vehicles over 75,000 miles, but I'm sure its fine for newer ones.

Check car-part.com. An ECU around here would be $50 to $100. The harness might be priced about the same?

I've been using Lancaster County Motors Subaru parts website. http://lancastercountysubaruparts.com/

Could it be the rear dragging? (Torque bind?)

I try and find parts others recommended. I'm going to put some EMPI axles on my car. I know cheap aftermarket Subaru axles are generally a no-no, but at $55 each shipped for NEW ones, I'll take the risk.

Some people have had luck with adding some Techron or similar cleaner to their gas. By off, do you mean you hit E and still have 5 gallons left or that it goes from F to E in 100 miles or so?

About $45. You can save about $10 by ordering from an online Subaru dealer.

If it is a cat, look into the trick of using an anti fouler on the rear O2 sensor. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=107052 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=107476 Good luck!

The drivers side is "loaded" and takes some power to move. And will spring around. The passanger was more free to spin. That was from my experience doing a belt on a 2.2l.

Oh, and get your belt/water pump kit from Mizumo or The Import Expert on eBay. Make sure the water pump gasket is OEM (metal coated in rubber... not paper!) Use OEM cam and crank seals. And look up the FSM. The Haynes and Chilton manuals have wrong torque specs.

If you search here and Google you will find tons of how to guides on doing it. Its fairly easy. It shouldn't take more than 5 hours your first time. Replace the water pump, idlers, cam seals, crank seal, and reseal the oil pump while doing the belt.

Here is a picture of the rust. This is the drivers side rocker near the rear wheel. Sorry its upside down..

Quick question involving rocker panels and lifting the vehicle... As the car cannot be lifted by the rockers now, what lift points should I recommended to any garage that would put the car on a lift?

It is all pretty rusty. I don't want to patch here and there...i'll just do the entire length.

I found an online source that does custom metal. For a 70" x 9" .040" thickness aluminum it will be about $35 shipped. That isn't bad. I don't know if I should bend it over the pinch weld or bend it in the shape of the pinch weld. Bending it in the shape over it would be a pain in the rump roast. I'll probably just bend it right over it and have a 1" lip on the other side of the weld and rivet it there. Perhaps I will just pound the pinch weld flat, or what is left of it (the parts that have not rusted off..)

Yeah, I am looking for 18 or 20 gauge aluminum. I need to find a place in Pittsburgh that sells that kind of thing. I'll have to make a few phone calls tomorrow.

Bondo gets messy, so I like to avoid it, but I'm sure some will be required. I thought about the foam holding water and helping along new rust., but also about the foam filling the void and not allowing water to pool in there. I need to figure out the thickness I need. I need it thick enough to be sturdy but pliable enough to wrap around. The entire area is about 70 inches long and I'd need it about 8 inches wide so I can wrap it around all the way. I'm painting both rockers with bed liner coating.