mattocs

I've got quite a bit of rust and holes on my drivers side rocker panel on my 1995 Legacy L. I know there are no direct replacements for it so I was trying to think of some ideas to repair it so it will pass a Pennsylvania state inspection. I was thinking about getting a piece of sheet metal as long as the panel and riveting it about a half inch below the doors and folding it under and finding something to rivet it on to. Then, fill it with expanding foam, Bondo if needed, and paint. Suggestions? Other ideas?

I think a lot of dealer parts departments have limited Saturday hours. Call around.

13.2 gallons, IIRC.

Call around. An aftermark radiator should run $150 or so. You could probably get it done for half of what the dealer wanted.

Did you replace the wires, too?

Below is a picture of the clips I used when I installed a new belt last month. It is a 2,2l, but you get the idea. The clips were 79 cents each at Harbor Freight,

Was the cooling system burped properly?

I attached it as an image.

http://pdfcast.org/pdf/1995-legacy-bumper Let me know if that works. I have never used that PDF host before. Thats of a 1995 from the FSM. Hope it helps?

Which engine was in the car? 4 or 6 cylinder?

That made me chuckle. Haha.

What's break in method are you going with? Varying RPMs and not beating on it for several hundred miles or the drive it like you stole it method?

Both times my Subarus leaked coolant it was the water pump, and it dripped off of and covered the oil pan.

Its only about half of a quart between the low and full mark.

When I do my drain and fills, I pour my old ATF into a gallon jug that I've marked with lines for each quart. That way I have a really good idea on how much new fluid will be needed to be at the proper level. Usually I get just under 4 quarts when I drain the pan. Good luck!

Did 7.5 quarts get taken out? Draining the pan only gets out about 4 quarts.

The 95 is OBDII. The 93 is OBDI. The timing belt kit is the same for both.

That's a decent fuel mileage. I average 22-26mpg on my 2.2s. I could get 30mpg on the highway, and I get in the upper teens in short distance and stop and go traffic. I'm usually content as long as my average is 22mpg or better.

Ah, ok. I'm sure it was mentioned being a stick and I missed it. I know when torque bind happens on a manual it suddenly happens and there is no fix for it. I've heard people suggest shaving tires down to match. I personally have never known anyone who's had that done. But if the rears are in good shape, try and find the same tire and have them adjusted to match. I wouldn't drive very far with the mismatched tires.

If you can live without AWD, get two used tires and put a fuse in to make it FWD. Some say it wears out the solenoid faster, but it probably wouldn't hurt anything for quite a while.

Ditto. I didn't see your post when I posted.

The 97/98 Outback also had a EJ25, DOHC. The EJ25 SOHC in the 2000s would be what I'd go with.

I've always bought four new tires on all my Subarus. The tires are supposed to be within 1/4" circumference of each other. If you can find two tires that match the rear ones that you say are good, you could find a shop that might be able shave them down to match. If its an automatic there is a fuse holder in the engine compartment on the passanger side firewall. Pop a 20A fuse in to put it in FWD. The danger of not having matching tires is torque bind. Its very common as the transmissions age. I'm sure someone else will chime in with more information. Good luck!

Are you going to be driving around in FWD mode?

I like the ones in the latest picture much more than in the first. The chrome ones just look cheap.