john in KY

Just recently read an article about "remanufactured" MC and slave cylinders on another forum. Seems most "rebuilt" cylinders today on the market aren't really rebuilt. Just new seals and that's it. Cylinders aren't even honed so good chance either one or both of the new parts you purchased have pitted bores.

I think the asking price is way to high with the described paint job. The power steering is electric and most likely the motor just needs new brushes to fix it. An easy fix. The power steering fluid is special so only use Subaru fluid.

Could be a weak fuel pump or a weak coil.

The size should be cast into the backside of the wheel but what you have are the oddball 390s.

Check the timing belt/belts for stripped teeth. Also verify the screw retaining the rotor hasn't fallen out.

I just did mine in the driveway with the front wheels on ramps. The 7/8 wrench works for me and it is a tight fit. Very little room to work in and I attacked it from the bottom. Do yourself a huge favor and use antiseize on the new one.

I use a 7/8 box wrench. Never could get the special socket to work.

My 95 fuel mileage recently took a major hit similar to yours. Turned out the problem was the vacuum line to the FPR came disconnected.

Sure. Found the 2 hoses for the turbo and both radiator hoses. All new, never installed. $35 shipped. I'll post a photo if interested. You can PM me after you have racked more than 10 posts. John

I almost bought that car. Still regret I wasn't faster on the trigger.

If you want to just replace the 4EAT with another, I know a person in Jacksonville, FL that has a good one. Post your email address and I'll forward it.

I have the two "turbo" hoses around here somewhere. Had them for my 90 turbo wagon but never installed them.

Don't think so. Thinking only the 1990 turbo wagon came with the 4EAT. Everything else got the 3 speed.

http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=12635

I did an internet search for "yardhippie" and got one hit. Location was TX and it is a Subaru forum.

What about that old Dodge in the background? If it has the poly 318, I'd be interested i the exhaust manifolds and the exhaust header pipe if still any good.

No. Car had only 65K when it was parted out. Sorry.

I have an AFM from an 85 XT turbo I saved.

None that I am aware of. Problem more likely is a vacuum leak or that part the bolts to the top on the thermostat housing. It controls the idle speed.

Just nitpicking but a factor to also consider is the width of the wheels. The same tire on a 6" wide wheel and then on a 5.5" wide wheel will probably have a difference in circumference.

Had the same car a few years ago. Sold it with 250K on it and it was still running great.

It's not the battery and I doubt if there is a problem with the starter. Just as a test, why not loosen all the drive belts. If the sound disappears, then something driven by the belts is causing the problem.

If you are any good with a welder, just cut the top off and replace it with another good one. Saw and helped to do this many years ago when a local kid rolled his 57 Chevy. My cousin removed the crushed top with just a hacksaw. Replacement top was set in place and after some welding and grinding, the car looked factory again. Just have to measure carefully before cutting. Easy to remove metal but a bear to add metal. I don't believe you could ever message the damaged roof well enough to get a windshield to fit.

Don't overlook the possibility there is a crack in the turbo.

Also check that intake hose between the AFM and throttle body for looseness/cracks/other hoses not connected. The no-crank problem could be fuse related.