john in KY

When I lived in AK, my car had a "heating pad" glued to the oil pan. Was electric and worked great. My coldest morning was -57F. Car started right up although the tires rode as if square, not round. don't know why the pad couldn't be made to work on the transmission.

My only guess at this point is the individual solenoids aren't opening. The solenoids have to be open for the air to reach the struts. Underneath the door sill, driver's side, there is a control unit that activates the solenoids. I have a couple and Gary also probably has some. PM me your email address and I can send a few photos of the control unit. Another option is all 4 solenoids are frozen. Not very likely.

Friend back in the mid 1970s had all 4 tires changed on his Impala. Left the tire store, driving on the beltway around DC, and all 4 wheels sheared off. Tire store swore up and down it was not at fault and got away with it.

My guess will be a clog somewhere in the exhaust system. Had a similar problem years ago. Externally the muffler look great. Internally not so great. A baffle broke free and was moving around inside the muffler.

1979 BRAT transmission crossmember?

Sounds like you have the distributor installed one gear tooth off.

That whatever it is called on top of the thermostat housing controls the cold idle. A vacuum leak in one of the intake manifold runners will cause a low speed miss. Check the vacuum lines for cracks.

OK, will pass on suggestions. thanks.

Not my problem. Someone on another forum swapped engines and now the installed engine won't even crank. All I know for sure is the engine is the DOHC 2.5. The car has a manual transmission and the engine came from a car with the automatic. Part of the 2.5 engine wiring harness doesn't connect to anything in the car. Thinking probably the harness that went to the automatic. Person with the problem states turning the key does nothing. Anyone have any ideas? Never owned a manual transmission Subaru but thinking the transmission has to be in neutral before the engine will crank.

Folks in the Southern Hemisphere could get 14" wheels for the XT.

Very odd. This model has the 4EAT. You didn't mention a light in the dash flashing 16 times so it appears the electronics/solenoids aren't the problem. Get under the car and with someone working the shifter verify everything is lining up on that fan-shaped whatever on the passenger side of the transmission. This part has I believe 4 indents. Too difficult to explain but once you see it it should be obvious. Each indent equals a gear.

Remove distributor cap and verify the rotor turns when engine cranks. Also that igniter thing needs grounded. It is grounded thru the coil bracket so make sure there is a good body contact. Forgot to mention always a good idea to check fuses and the fusible links.

I's suspect the driveshaft/carrier bearing /u joints first and the the clutch.

My understanding is the light will flash/flicker as the injector opens and closes.

Maybe the injectors aren't firing? Thinking there is something called a noid light used to test.

Use the middle of the 3 marks (III) on the flywheel. One cam straight up and the other straight down.

Thr front solenoids are located on the firewall side of the strut towers. Rears are part of the strut. Think of the solenoids as faucets. When open, air flows from the compressor tank to that individual strut. When closed the air is trapped in the strut. You could apply pressurized air at the compressor fitting but will prove nothing if the solenoids are not open. Best way IMO to check each strut is to open the solenoid for that strut and apply air from another source. If the strut inflates and stays inflated, you know the strut and solenoid are good. The way I finally figured out my problem was a weak compressor is I removed the airline at the strut and with the compressor running, you can hotwire it at its relay, and held the line near my cheek. All I felt was a wisp of air, not what I expected. I probably could have generated greater pressure blowing through a straw. Another idea: Use some sort of pressure gauge at the compressor and verify how much pressure it is generating. Don't have a FSM anymore but maybe someone knows what its output is rated at.

The system could still has a leak somewhere but I think the problem is the compressor is just worn out. Still runs but no air pressure to amount to anything. Had the same problem years ago with an XT6. Easy way to test all the struts for leaks is to jump each solenoid and apply compressed air from a reliable source. Just jump 12 volts to on side of the solenoid. When the strut inflates, only takes seconds, remove the 12 volts and the solenoid will close. Use a split plastic straw to remove the upstrream air line. You don't want to break those little locking tabs. Just from memory that center hose is the one that pressurizes the tank. Compressed air when needed flows from the tank, through the compressor manifold and then to each strut. The tank has a pressure switch. Designed to activate the compressor when the tank pressure is low. Once I worked out the bugs in my system, loved the ride and never considered switching to conventional struts.

$175, wow. Would have sold one for $25.

Time to start pulling fuses one at a time to narrow down the faulty circuit. I have a couple of XT6 AFM. Can't remember now what it is called but on the left side of the throttle body that regulates the idle. IAS? Should have a few of these also. Pretty sure there is a diode somewhere in the charging systems there to prevent the battery draining back into the alternator.

Strangely enough there are only 3 1995 Legacys in this small town and one of them is that color. My guess is it was a one year only color.

When you get around to reinstalling the engine, and assuming the car has an automatic, be darn sure the TC is fully seated. It likes to hang up about 1/4 inch from being fully seated. If you don't catch this and bolt the engine and bellhousing together, all you do is destroy the pump inside the transmission.

Take a look at the return line. May be restricting return flow. Seems to me the pumps are being worked to death.

My Legacy starting pulling to the left. Turned out to be failing wheel bearing.

I'd first check for spark.