john in KY

Driving back from Ohio a few days after Christmas I saw a small 4wd vehicle sitting along side the road. Owner probably ran out of gas. Truck was sitting on wood blocks because someone stole all 4 wheels/tires.

I live just down the road from you in Elkton. Need to verify if the engine cranks/turns when the starter is engaged. Spark is checked by pulling on of the plug wires at the spark plug, inserting a screwdriver in the wire and holding the screwdriver about 1/4 inch from metal. If you have spark, it will jump and be visible. Also will hear a "cracking" sound.

2 long bolts in the crankshaft and then tread a bar between them. Same setup used to lock a front wheel when removed that big nut.

Had the same code in my 95 wagon last month. Replaced both O2 sensors and no more code.

Any chance you could tackle this from the other end? Meaning cut/grind off the head of the bolt.

The TPS out of adjustment will produce this.

Only changed struts on my 95 wagon once and can recall not having any problems with the install. I think if I understand the problem the solution is to loosely attach the top of the strut and then use a pipe wrench or whatever to twist the bottom of the strut. Just a long screwdriver through the bottom mounting hole should work.

You may have a right-side strut. Pretty sure the rear struts and top hats are side specific. Also not easy to compress a good gas strut. Driver side=left side. Right side=passenger side. Take a look at the part # on your junkyard strut. Pretty sure it will begin with either an L or R for which side it goes to.

How many quarts of ATF did you use? May just need to add more. Takes what, 9 quarts?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/74419-p0183-fuel-temperature-sensor-a-circuit-high-input/

around 3500 rpm - 4500 rpm, as well as emit a high pitch type whistle from Sounds to me like you may have a clog somewhere in the exhaust system. Once had a baffle inside the muffler break lose and that caused a similar problem.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1984321

EGR

Drill an extra hole.

I would look closely at the right front wheel. Sounds like a wheel bearing failure to me. Edit: A warped rotor will also cause this.

Do you have a bunch of junk hanging from the ignition key?

First check to insure the battery cables are tight.

I never would have thought to use heat to unstick the valves. Do know from my one and only experience that when the valves "seize" they really seize. Also amazed you were even able to get 12 year old gasoline to ignite.

Take a look at the front of the engine. Casted into the block will be either 2.2 or 2.5. The 97 Outback only came with the 2.5 engine so if you see 2.2, then the engine has been swapped.

Not familiar with this engine having never even seen one but my guess is the valves are hanging up in the cylinder head. Had a similar problem with a Dodge engine that sat for 20 years. After an hour or so running time, started to loose cylinders. Pulled the valve cover and the majority of the push rods had actually bent. The machinist I took the head to for a valve job told me varnish had built up on the valve stems from the years of sitting. Whatever, all I knew was the valves where frozen solid in place. Have someone crank the engine while you watch the valvetrain. Watching to see if the valves open and close. No compression to me suggests at least some of the valves are not fully closing.

Could be the AFM starting to fail. Once had similar symptom with my 95 and in my case, it was the AFM.

http://www.ehow.com/how-does_5038087_car-battery-change-subaru-impreza.html

Sounds like a fuel pump problem. First check all the fuses inside the car and under the hood. There is an inspection plate under the rear seat or cargo area that you use to gain access to the pump. Unplug it and use a test light to see if voltage is reaching the pump. When the key is first turned, the fuel pump is designed to energize for a few seconds. Changing the pump isn't that difficult but a new pump is around $150. Always wise to check for spark when cranking the engine.

Drive that bolt back into its original position and the use a clamp or chain to hold the strut in place. Then drive out the bolt. Or jam something between the strut and body, just something to hold the strut so the bolt can be driven out. The objective is to keep the strut from moving as you hammer on the bolt. Use a jack under the strut to reduce the downward force.

Had the exact same car years ago. Bought it with about 135K, sold it years later with another 100K and never had a lick of problems. Great little car.