john in KY

Not true.

I think it is recommended the battery be disconnected and then step on the brake pedal a few times. Never understood the stepping on the brake pedal part.

In my experience, when a rod bearing fails, it fails. The noise doesn't come and go. The higher the rpms, the louder the knock. Also in my experience, when a rod or main bearing fails, the engine only has a few miles left. Could be the flex plate. Had a 63 Fairlane many years ago that the original owner replaced the 289 with a new one. Problem is whoever did the work did not torque the flex plate bolts. That noise did come and go. I initially thought rod bearing also but quickly decide it had to be something else. The Ffex plate was both loose and cracked.

The power steering pump is powered by an electric motor. More than likely the problem is the motor just needs new brushes. I won't use anything but the Subaru power steering fluid. You can still get it from a dealer. This is a very common failure/repair for the power steering.

It will be a fuel injected with 4 injectors. Thinking 87 was the year Subaru switched from the "flapper" AFM to the other type. If it has the manual transmission, excellent chance it also has the LSD rear differential.

Well, if it is a bad bearing, just driving it a short distance will confirm this. Place your hand on each wheel. The wheel that is too hot to touch has the seized bearing.

The transmission, the SVX's weak point.

I think 200 Euros would be a fair price.

If you decide swapping in another engine rather than fooling with yours, I have an ER27 engine with only 11K miles on it. Been in dry storage for years. Forgot to mention this is a JDM engine. Has more HP than the US version. How much, I don't know.

I would bench bleed the MC again and start over. Remove the MC lines, replace them with some short lines bent back into the reservoirs and you don't have to remove the MC.

Should have first verified the fuel pump is working as you suspect that is the problem. Then check for a broken timing belt.

Won't fit. The inner diameter and spline count are wrong.

I once put 100k miles on a 90 turbo wagon running 12 pounds of boost and never had a problem. Did use plugs one step cooler than stock and retarded the timing 2 degrees. Just from memory thinking stock timing is around 22 BTDC but could be wrong. 15 BTDC seems on the retarded side to me. Don't know what affect not having a knock sensor will have but don't think it does much of anything at idle.

Subaru has ordered dealers to apply some sort of coating on that brake line. Apparently some owners have experienced rear brake failure because of corrosion. What you describe sounds like some dealer has done this. Easy to check. Just go to any dealer and it can run your VIN. Just ask if that "repair" has been done on your car.

"the timing marks on the harmonic balancer do not relate to TDC on the number 1 cylinder" I'm confused. Are you saying that when you bring #1 cylinder up to TDC, the pointer doesn't point at 0 degrees? The firing order is 142 536. Seems to me the only problem is the plug wires are 180 degrees off. I would retime the engine by bringing #1 up to TDC. The timing marks on the balancer should be at 0. Then reinstall the plug wires. Edit from another forum: Ford in there infant wisdom saw fit to put 2 different sets on many of the 4.9s. on mine there is one set on the timing gear cover. dont use this one if you have the other one it is located on the other side or passenger side. it is a metal strip that has notches in it. one big notch which is TDC and smaller notches going both ways out from TDC . there are also 2 different marks on the crank pulley. one square notch that is easy to see. dont use this one. the other correct one is a very small line scribed in the pulley and very hard to see if the pulley is dirty. this is the one to use.

Balancer has sheared the woodruff key and has spun on the crankshaft?

Install a new belt. Get it tight enough. Top off steering fluid. Problem solved.

No heat from the heater suggests to me low coolant or the coolant isn't circulating. Check both heater hoses after running the engine for a few minutes. Both should be equally hot to the touch. Just guesses but engine needs burped (air pocket) or water pump failed.

Over on the passenger side of the firewall there should be a white canister, smaller than a coke can. It should have 2 vacuum hoses.

http://subarujusty.proboards.com/thread/958?page=2 Videos of justy valve lash adjustment

Since you don't drive it much, run with a loose radiator cap (no pressure) and constantly check the coolant level. When low, just top it off with anti freeze. Adding too much "Stop-Leak" can cause all kinds of additional problems.

I'd suspect the battery cables. Look for corrosion just behind the post connectors.

You sure it is the running lights and not the brake lights?

"It also runs rough when you are at a stop light with the brake depressed" Vacuum leak at the power booster?

Or one of the front CV axles broke.