john in KY

Heater core is leaking.

I need that on my turbo wagon years ago. Lots of underhood heat will exit but on the negative side, if the engine smokes some, the cabin air will always smell of oil. So much heat escaped I never had to run the defrost.

I'm not a transmission guy but have taken a few apart for no good reasons and recall the valve body is just a hunk of metal with a lot of passageways and ball bearings. So how can a valve body fail? If this was my problem and would really want an explanation from the dealer that explained what caused the valve body to fail. I would also want it explained to me why the TCU had to be touched because of the remote start addition. Heck, I would want both explanations in writing and then I would send copies to SOA.

Just a thought. Raise front end of car off the ground, turn steering wheel. May be able to reproduce the symptom and then pin point the source. Also check the steering rack. It's held in place by rubber bushings that may be loose. Also look at the steering shaft U-joint.

3.90 ratio means you have a manual transmission. Sounds like what was installed was from a turbo model that would have had the 3.70 front differential ratio. Only 2 ratios used back in those years, either 3.70 or 3.90.

Disconnect the E-brake cable, crack the bleeder valve and the piston may go back.

Timing belt, the one that also drives the distributor, most likely broke. Check for spark or just pull the distributor cap and see if the rotor turns when the engine is being cranked.

You have a 5-speed manual with push-button 4WD.

If you messed with the timing belt, sounds like you installed it wrong. A common mistake. Also, go easy on the starter fluid. Too much and you will crack a piston.

Could be as simple as low on coolant. Google Subaru+burping before randomly replacing parts.

Would you have any interest in a low mileage transmission but with the 4.11 ratio? Been in dry storage for at least 10 years.

If you are positive there is no problem with the #6 spark plug/plug wire, then the problem has to be within the distributor.

I'd suspect a burnt valve.

Nunbers don't look too bad to me. Remember the CR is only 7.7. A quick way to test the turbo is to pull that vacuum line between the intake manifold and the wastegate controller. This will produce maximum boost, if the turbo is not damaged. And I do mean maximum. Do this only as a test.

I have a low milage JDM ER27, 11k miles, that I'd sell for double whatever the shipping cost will be.

Making an assumption here that the no-start condition occurs when the engine is cold. If so, suspect the coolant temperature sensor (CTS).

The Euro -spec engine had a much higher HP rating than the US-spec engine. Thinking it was rated at 135HP. Part of the HP increase could have been because of a different head design but who knows.

Just from memory I seem to recall there is a bank of 4 relays more or less under the ash tray. The center console needs pulled to gain access. Also recall there is another relay under the passenger side (back set area) panel. This one will not be easy to access. Remove rear seat and then whatever that interior panel is called and I have really no idea what it is a relay for but always thought because of its nearness to the fuel pump, maybe it is the fuel pump relay.

Check timing belt as one of the two also drives the distributor.

Look for a leaking fuel injector O-ring.

I once used a stock turbo muffler from a WRX on my wagon. Just a thought.

I have in the past owned an 85 turbo XT and a 90 turbo wagon and those cylinder heads had those markings. Don't believe the turbo pistons are forged . Making a NA block a turbo, let's see, heads, intake, distributor, knock sensor, exhaust manifold. AFM, and who knows what else. Thinking the 3rd generation turbo heads had the EA82 inclosed in a box, but it has been a long time. My 90 turbo wagon had the 3rd gen heads, ran 12 pounds of boost from 150k miles to 250k when I sold it. New owner ended up ripping the front differential out and scrapping it. I would have bought the car back if I had known he was going to scrap it. Sure did enjoy that car.

Just EA82 casted in the head is one generation, EA82 with a line underneath it is another, and EA82 inside a box is another. Can't recall which mark is for which generation. Can be welded but if the crack is just between 2 valves, very common and not a concern. If the crack goes into the exhaust port, major problem and scrap the head.

When you say you replaced the wire 3 times, I assume that means you used 3 different wires. This eliminates the wire being the problem. Spark plug probably not the problem so my guess is a cap and/or rotor problem.

Any photos of your dogs? I love German Shepherds. Best dog in the world.