john in KY

I haven't bother to read all the posts but if the oil pan had an extra gallon the question is where did the extra gallon come from? If from a leaking gasket, then the radiator would have to be a gallon low and the engine would overheat. If you didn't have to top off the radiator, there is nothing wrong with the head gaskets.

You bend the tab attached to the float. Goggle "weber float adjustment".

If the Weber uses a float, sounds like the float s too low.

Easy outs can be problematic. If you have a reversible drill, buy some left-handed drill bits, and go that route. Use a center punch to mark the broken bolt before drilling.

I was always told never to use either copper lines or compression fittings. Copper "work hardens" over time and then will crack.

This really sounds like caster or camber problem. Never could remember which is which but one seems to me needs to be adjusted. Also, whoever told you the coil springs need to turn knows less about alignment than I do.

Check the basics. Does the engine have spark? Is the fuel pump working? Have you checked the fuses? Could be a broken timing belt.

With spark and fuel, start thinking broken timing belt. Those plastic end covers can be pulled to check the belt.

First thing I would do is determine whether I have spark or not.

The control unit is located under the driver side door sill. Really need to pull the seat, roll back the carpet to gain access. Plus you have to remove that plastic sill plate. Anyways, just unplug it and problem solved.

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I would be more concerned about the vibration and would check the driveshaft for wear. Put the FWD fuse in and hope the virbation ceases.

Don't know if this applies to the loyale but the XT/XT6 has a switch just to the right of the gas pedal that controls the "doors". It is located behind a small plastic cover. If there, pop the cover and while someone else works the heating buttons, see if that lever moves. Also do know your car has a vacuum canister under the hood on the passenger side on the firewall. It needs to be hooked up for the heater to work properly.

I would focus on the IAC (idle problem) and the TPS (sluggish acceleration). Have no idea what is going on with the fans.

When was the last time the spark plug wires where replaced?

Replace the TC/flexplate/and the front transmission seal. I think the beginning of your problems was probably loose flexplate/crankshaft bolts.

Road reminds me of what back roads in NE Ohio looked like during the spring thaw.

Sounds like a broken front cv axle or stripped front hub.

Approaching 300K on my 95 Legacy. Engine/transaxle/driveshaft still all original. Seriously thinking about finding another driveshaft at the wrecking yard. rebuilding it, and have it ready when the original fails.

Weird, that yoke should just slide out. Somehow the PO secured it. Look for a pin or something. My understanding is the rear 1/2 of the driveshaft are all the same. It is the front 1/2 that changes depending on the type of transmission.

I think you now have two problems. First problem is there is air in the coolant system or the engine is just low on antifreeze. Do a search for "burp". The belt is squealing because something it powers is not turning. The "something" could well be the water pump. I would not drive the car until the problem is identified and repaired. Replacing head gaskets can get very expensive. http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/burping-coolant-system-8683/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/93859-burping-question-on-overheating-legacy/

Why not just pull the fuel line at the filter and see if gas flows?

Sounds like the fuel pump has failed. If so and you decide to replace it, not all that difficult because there is an access plate inside the car, strongly suggest you replace it with an OEM pump. Many of the aftermarket pumps are smaller and don't fit the bracket.

I don't know what the break down is between differential failures and driveshaft failures but I'd wager that for every differential failure there is probably 50 driveshaft failures.