john in KY

Pasted this from another message board: You need to get the CEL code read (PXXX) and bring that code back here. The CEL is preventing your Cruise from working and the Cruise light is flashing to tell you it can't work. You may be able to disconnect your positive battery cable for 10 mins and step on the brake pedal for a minute to reset the ECU. That may put the CEL out and allow your cruise to work. If the CEL comes back on after you do that, you will need to get the code read. Nothing wrong with the catalytic convertor. Nothing wrong with the catalytic convertor.

Your sister got ripped good. A decent muffler goes for about $125. Good chance the midpipe didn't even need to be replaced. Two gaskets, maybe $20. Regardless if you get a partial refund or not, I'd post this on Angie's list. You need to think about the next person that goes to this guy for a repair. Edit: Checked some online prices: Muffler $85 midpipe $135 Two gaskets $25 Rust does not add anything to this repair. Using either a Sawsall or torch, and the system is on the ground in most 5 minutes. Installation: How long does it take to install/tighten 4 bolts?

Are the aftermarket fans turning in the right direction?

My 95 LS has 250K miles and still going strong. If I really liked the 95 and wasn't too crazy about the 97, I would do the swap. Would I give up my 95 for a 97, no way.

Forget about the idea you have a clogged fuel line. More likely the AFM is failing.

Got it all back together today. Didn't break the transmission so feeling pretty good about that.

Use a pickle fork and buy new ball joints because the pickle fork will damage the original ball joints. http://www.ehow.com/video_2327952_use-upper-lower-ball-joints.html

Disconnect the E-brake cable at the caliper. You will need to recess the pistons in the calipers when you get around to installing the new pads. The pistons have to be screwed in. There is a little tool for this but I've done it with just a dull chisel

Pulled the engine in the 95 Legacy and managed to displace the TC. Thinking it is now fully seated but not 100% sure. If I were to run a straight edge across the front of the bellhousing, it would just touch the TC bosses, those raised areas the flexplate attaches to. For some reason thinking the TC should be recessed another 1/4 inch to be fully seated. so, is the TC seated as it now sits or does it need to go back a tad more?

Modern engines will never roll start with a dead battery. You need a battery to power the ECU/fuel pump/injectors/etc. Since it won't start/crank with a jump, I'd eliminate the battery as the problem. Have you cleaned the battery posts and the the battery wire clamps? Lots of corrosion equals lots of resistance. The starter may be failing but Subaru starters are tough as I have never had one fail on me.

Not clear what you mean when you state the engine will not start. Do you mean the engine cranks but will not start or do you mean the engine will not crank? Always a good idea to first clean the battery terminals. And welcome.

Over the years I have rebooted probably 20 axles. Never was concerned with the placement of the bearings and in my case, never made a difference.

Ring and pinion gears/front differential. The "lash", how they engage, has to be just about dead on or failure is very likely.

Strange because I don't think the inner joints click when failing, only the outer joints. Any chance you screwed up the reinstall? Cone washer installed wrong/ditto for washer/insufficient nut torque?

Doesn't make any difference. Think about it. If it was critical how the gasket was used, don't you think the manufacturer would have printed "this side up" or something. As for the sealant question, when the engine was manufactured, Subaru didn't use any.

The airflow meter can also produce this problem. Since you aren't that far from Knoxville, I'd take a ride to the Pull a Part in knoxville, buy both the pump and airflow meter for next to nothing. The meter and pump for all I know are all swapable from early 90s up to 99 models.

Problem probably either ignition or fuel related. I'd suspect the fuel pump. New filter a good idea also. Pump not difficult to replace but many of the aftermarket pumps are not a perfect fit and will cause problems. I'd use only an OEM pump.

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0740

For the time being, insert the FWD fuse and see if anything changes. The transmission does have a clutch pack located on the back side. Never changed one but understand not a real problem. When the car starts to buck, any change in the rpms? Try to whittle down the problem. Is it engine related or transmission related or rear differential?

08 LL Bean. Changed all the plugs except the last one, the one nearest the firewall on driver's side. Looks like I need about 1/4 more space between the frame and coil pack. As of now, just can't get that coil pack off the spark plug. Any suggestions?

Bet that new aftermarket pump is shorter than the OEM pump. What happened is the weight of the pump has caused it to separate from that short hose used to connect the pump to the hard line. Pull the pump and use a hose clamp around the pump to hold it in its bracket or better yet, get a stock pump.

May just be slipping on the splined shaft. See If you can tighten the nut a tad.

Just a guess but sounds like there is an air leak somewhere in the lines. I'd check all the airline connections with soapy water looking for bubbles. My understanding of the system is the compressor charges the air tank and the tank air charges the dampers. On North American models, the relay for the compressor is located behind the left front strut, close to the firewall and next to the brake MC. It is protected by a rubber boot. You can remove it to stop the compressor from running.

You have the turbo engine. That last photo regulates the cold idle. The temperature sensor you want to change/check is located on one of the intake runners. Edit: You changed the correct coolant sensor. Didn't see that photo. Does sound like a blown gasket/cracked cylinder head. Someone will post a link to how to time the timing belts.

The "has a little rattle" is a little vague but I'd check the timing. Could be too far advanced.