john in KY

Use the seat belt. Don't pick up hitch hikers. Avoid driving through cities during rush hours. Better to sleep during the day and drive all night. Summer heat is hard on the driver, the car and especially old tires. Have enough cash on hand to buy a bus ticket.

Open the hood and look by the MC. Should see a black rubber boot looking thing. Remove boot and unplug the relay and the compressor will stop. Foolish to replace the entire suspension when all you need is one strut but that's just my opinion. Note: unplug the 2 smaller wires at the relay. One of the two larger wires is always hot.

My guess is both problems will be resolved after the combination switch is replaced. My limited understanding is the headlight circuit uses circuit breakers and not relays.

Buy a strut from Gary, pop it in and be done with it.

Got confused and initially gave bad advice. Check out Rockauto.com for the bearing..

Yes.

Read your other posting. This model only has a screen filter inside the pan. Don't even bother replacing it. No spin on ATF filter. That is only on much newer models and the ATF cooler in the radiator is internal to the radiator. Located at the very bottom of the radiator or along the side and is part of the radiator. Find 2 hoses by the battery. They connect to the internal cooler. Dark red ATF is a very bad sign. Indicates the fluid has been overheated. "I checked codes again this time getting the "duty solenoid C". Does that code mean that the sensor is for sure out or could it be something else? Also what would that be listed under for the part because ive have searched and searched and can't find the part at o'riellys." All the transmission solenoids are dealer only items. Insert the FWD fuse under the hood and this will "solve" the duty C problem for the time being.

Seems to me you have 2 problems. The 1st is not shifting into 4th. The 2nd is the duty C solenoid. As far as I know, the duty C failure has nothing to do with no upshift into 4th gear. Inserting the FWD fuse will mitigate the duty C problem.

Just guessing here but maybe the alternator current flows through one of the fusible links. And are you certain the car quits running because the battery is dead? Do the headlights still work or not? 15 minutes of run time in the daytime without the headlights on and the battery goes dead? Tells me the battery started with a minimal charge. You should be able the run for hours with a fully charged battery and no alternator output. Just thought of something else that is a classic problem with the XT6 and just may apply here. The harmonic balancer separates and no longer turns the accessory belt.

If the alternator is good and the wiring is good, only thing left is a bad battery.

If not comfortable with replacing the joints, take the driveshaft and the new joints to just about any machine shop. I doubt if the labor will exceed $50.

Did anyone check the CV boot under the turbo and I seem to recall the turbo has some sort of problem pertaining to a clogged return oil screen.

Fuel filter is known good, right?

My now long gone 90 turbo wagon with 205/65/15 tires would often do that but the engine was tweaked and was putting out around 150 HP.

Sounds like a good deal to me. My wagon has 260k miles on it and I expect to get 100k more. It is amazing how long a subaru will run if maintained.

Never heard of an electronic 3AT.

Does the car have a rust problem? Rear wheels will tilted inward when part of the suspension fails because of rust.

Affirmative on the power steering pump. The actual pump never fails. It is always the electric motor when its brushes wear out. $1100 would be way too much in my opinion because there are always other problems with used cars. Post over on subaruxt.com with some photos. Members there, all XT6 fanatics, will offer good advice. Not quite understanding what you mean with the "rear differential locked" statement. The rear differential doesn't have a locking feature.

Power steering is an easy fix. remove the end piece of the motor, blow out the dust and install new brushes. $20 fix. Check the fluid. Needs to be yellow as the system uses a specific type of fluid. Can still buy it for around $30. Suspension can be replaced with conventional struts but not as easy as fixing the power steering. Rear differential is just a standard 3.90 ratio. subaru used it in the GLs and Loyales. Rear axles can probably just be greased and rebooted but getting them out sometimes can be a real bear. I won't pay anymore than what a scrap yard will pay for it. Owned 5 over the years and really a great car.

Two things come to mind. Pull the vacuum line at the pressure regulator. If fuel flows then the regulator has failed. Wondering if you installed the correct injectors. Very early model Legacys used 2 types of injectors. One for manual and another for automatic transmissions. And somewhere in the early 1990s Subaru changed to another type of injector. What I am trying to convey is make sure the injectors are specifically for your model year.

I believe it has push-pull plastic pins. Depress that plug in the center and then pull the fastner out. Oops, pull the center pin out not in. http://www.ehow.com/how_6788063_remove-push-fasteners-car-fender.html

I seem to recall something changed with the crank/cam sensors during the mid 90s. Just mentioning this because there is a chance that "known good" 2000 sensor is not compatible with your engine. Something like 4 lobes vs 8 or something like that.

Probably the axle with the torn boot but why not just replace both and be done with it? Just rebooted one on an 08 H6. The axles just pull out from the differential. No roll pin.

I don't think the problem has anything to do with the alarm system. Inclined to believe part of the wiring harness still unplugged or some connection appears connected but in fact is not.

Dealer may still have one. Also any local business that repairs farm tractors or sells new ones can just make a new line for you.