john in KY

It's your car and I am not a welder but I won't trust those welds.

Sounds like the previous owner had a fuel delivery problem and replaced the pump and that wasn't the problem. The pump I believe is recycling because of too low fuel pressure. If the pump is good, then the only thing I can think of is a bad fuel pressure regulator or a badly leaking fuel injector. But before replacing even more parts, make sure the hose between the engine and fuel filter is the right one. Someone may have crossed the fuel to engine hose and the fuel return hose.

Don't know why, it just is. If you have an old Subaru newer than 1987, unbolt the coil bracket and attempt to start the car.

The 85 turbo engine has a fairly unique distributor as noted above. From memory it should have a vacuum advance canister with 2 fittings. Also, don't know if this applies to the early turbo models, but the 87 and newer require that the coil bracket be grounded to the body. A photo of the distributor could help.

Just to the right of the gas pedal,behind a plastic cover, is a "white gear". It may be stripped or the lever connected to it is out of adjustment.

I think you are good to go as long as the TC has fluid.

That's true. If there was some way to cast a block/cylinder head without using a sand mould, freeze plugs won't even exist.

This may help: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/why-is-the-power-steering-making-noise-on-my-subaru-outback/ Don't buy a power steering pump if yours is making noise for the first ten minutes of the day. Buy an O ring, Part # 3449AE020, from Subaru. Remove the bolt that attaches the fluid line from the reservoir at the pump, twist a little and it pulls right up. If the area is dirty first brush it off with an old tooth brush, to keep the dirt out. Carefully pull the line up, replace the O ring, and push the tube back in. Tighten the bolt. Start the engine, and turn the wheel side to side a few times to bleed any air out of the system. Happy motoring. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/43054-power-steering-noise-2002-outback.html 'there are still bubbles in the reservoir" suggests an air leak somewhere.

The repair costs so much because the entire dash has to be removed to get to the heater core. Not a fix but you could disconnect the 2 hoses at the firewall, engine side, and splice them together. You end up with no leak and also no heater. A SMALL amount of some quality radiator stop leak could plug the leak. By small I mean 1/2 of whatever is recommended. Too much is a bad thing.

Used 2.25 on my 90 turbo wagon. Went with that size because when I cut the flange at the turbo off, 2.25 size pipe was a perfect fit. Muffler used was a straight through turbo design. Noise was minimal, actually very quite.

Two pumps and the same symptom suggests to me the pump is not the source of the problem. Don't know what the pressure senor thingee is but since it failed, that suggests the system is experiencing excessive pressure. Try a new belt just for the heck of it and then start suspecting the rack.

Could the ignition switch be the problem?

Replacing the heater core is not an easy fix. The entire dash has to be pulled. The last one I did took 5 hours just to pull the dash.

Found 4 for sale on ebay.

Probably on the fuse panel. That's where the flasher unit is located on older models.

Not starting in the morning, cold engine, suggests a problem with the CTS. Stalling at traffic lights suggest the IAS or AIS, never could recall which, needs cleaned. Shouldn't be difficult to determine what under the hood is making that sound. "next person said it was canister purge solenoid or circuit which is another 85.00 so could someone help " I doubt it. Save the $85 for something else like an air filter if the one in the car needs replaced.

May want to adjust the air pressure in the current set up before going through the hassle of replacing it.

Not sure what the "hazard switch" is but there is that little round thing on the inside fuse panel that could be the source of the problem. I just always call it a flasher. It breaks the current to the lights.

Could just drop the entire front suspension if it is anything like the EA82 models and just leave the engine/transmission in place.

That there would be a difference based on which transmission was installed makes no sense to me.

Does the car have a rust issue? If that "tube" the rear suspension is hung from is rusted in the middle, the rear suspension will sag.

Remove door panel (driver side), leave the wiring harness attached and work the switch. The problem then should be obvious. Either some linkage needs adjusted or some previous owner installed a remote lock/unlock kit and it needs to be removed and tossed.

Just something to consider but don't go tunnel vision on the transmission. Front CV axle failure/stripped splines on one of the axle could produce the same no-movement problem.

What is P0028? Not on any DTC list I can find.

I don't think you would have a problem demanding the damaged engine be replaced with another new one.