somick

I never buy from Rock Auto. It cost you more on the long run. Sam

ra database is very inaccurate. They will sell you wrong stuff and you will pay return postage.

Well, my experiment did not work. When I applied heat, the copper did change color to "dull red" (from what I could tell). After it cooled off I coated it with Permatex Copper Gasket Spray and assembled everything back. I even torqued it in two steps as it said in the FSM. It leaked! I replaced the gasket with the Rubberized Synthetic Gasket Material, sprayed it with the same Permatex sealant, and started praying. Probably my praying worked.... It has been somewhere more than 200 miles on the new gasket and it still holds! Sam

Watch your language

I would stay away from that screw. Idle is computer controlled. I have heard about cleaning IAC valve. Good luck, Sam

I do not think that shaking and pump leaks are connected. I believe this is and alingment problem.

If nothing else works I will try leather. Need to go to Macys and by some leather sandal...

Thanks mikaleda! I have done many online searches with no results. But I got a good suggestion from another forum to heat the gasket and let it cool. That suppose to make it soft again. That what I am planning to do now. I will report back with results. Here is a link to that discussion if anybody is interested: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/44152-power-steering-pump-copper-gasket/54134

Thanks for responding. Do you happen to know where I can find it? Regards, Sam

92 Loyale with 173000 miles. This past weekend I finally attempted to reseal badly leaking power steering pump. I did not know how to treat a copper gasket inside, so I applied an anaerobic sealant to it, and assembled everything back. The pump is still leaking and I cannot find the source. I did not change o-rings, since based on my experience, aftermarket stuff works much worse than the original one. It looks like the leak is coming from underneath. So I blame the copper gasket. This weekend I plan to take everything apart again, but still want to be sure that I do everything right this time. Should I replace this gasket with a cardboard or something similar? Any advice? Regards, SaM

Sounds like you have warn out brushes. Sam

Be careful with them! Their data base is very inaccurate!

Factory recommended maintenance states - 30,000 miles. When I changed mine at 30000, the gap on the old ones was quite big. I have read somewhere that the coating on the plugs at this mileage has gone. OP. Do you hear the noise when driving or do you hear it only when idling? I was paranoid when I changed mine and kept listening to the sound as well. I also thought I heard something weird. I have 35,000 on mine now and do not hear anything strange anymore. Sam

ra database is very inaccurate! Do not deal with them. Sam

See if that document can help you: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwWjCuJyszsAVGJyOUN3REVLVDQ/edit Sam

That what I did... and failed smog! They want EMISSIONS hoses. Dealers have them, but be prepared to pay! Sam

Thank you guys! To be honest I did expect it to be like polished aluminum. But I take it... Sam

I finally removed oil pan on my 92 Loyale. And that what I saw: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=268&pictureid=3865 Valve covers inside were the same color. Especially on the passenger side. I am the only owner of this car. Oil has been changed religiously every 3000 miles. I must admit that I did not pay big attention to the brand but the Penzoil was the most often brand that I used. About 4 years ago I started treated my engine with Seafoam through the intake once a year, but never put it in the oil. Unfortunately the last four years the car has been driven by my relative who put less than 3000 miles on it. I did the maintenance anyway: changed oil every 6 months. What did I do wrong?

Do not order from ra. You will get stuck with wrong parts and they will charge you for return shipping Sam

See if this thread will help: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=109551 Sam

As far as I remember my 2010 Forester recommends NOT to use fuel cleaners! Sam

Thank you Faitax! That what I wanted to hear. Thank you Texan: this is my favorite color bw! This is blue, isn't it... Sam

2010 Forester. 30,456 miles. Non turbo. Yesterday I replaced spark plugs. The old ones were original. The boots (especially cylinder #2) were covered with light colored powder. I am colorblind and cannot exactly tell what color it was: something between white, light grey or metallic. (I can hear somebody is chuckling). Should I be worried or this is some kind of stuff installed at the factory, that prevents boots sticking? Sam

This is an Endwrench article I have. I cannot attach pdfs. So here is a copy of the text: Vehicle Won’t Take Fuel Here are some tips to aid diagnosis if you encounter a Subaru that won’t accept fuel through the filler neck or causes the gas nozzle to shut off prematurely during refueling: • Check the vehicle for obvious problems first, such as crushed or kinked hoses, misrouted hoses or broken components. • If nothing abnormal is found, attempt to refuel the vehicle to confirm the customer’s complaint. • While at the pump, remove the Fuel Tank hose from the canister. Remember, there are three hoses at the canister: one for Purge (usually the smallest in diameter), one for the Fuel Tank and one for the Drain to atmosphere after passing through the charcoal canister. • If the vehicle will refuel normally after removing the canister Fuel Tank hose, the problem is most likely between the canister and the vent hose in the rear frame rail. • If the vehicle still won’t refuel after removing the canister Fuel Tank hose, the problem is most likely between that hose and the tank. • Gain access to the pressure control solenoid valve hose connections to further isolate the problem. Hose obstructions that appear as small as spider webs can cause refueling problems. Clearing out the debris should correct the problem. I hope this helps. Sam

Make sure you rotate the caliper piston. Do not push on it. You can use a large screwdriver, or a special tool for it. Good luck, Sam