OB99W

I assume you're talking about the Geolandar A/T-S. They, like many tires made today, have a tread pattern designed to minimize hydroplaning. Unfortunately, the water channeling grooves often make it more likely for the tire to 'track' road grooves. If the problem is severe enough, you might go back to where you got the tires and see if they'll exchange them for something with a different tread design.

The Subaru is a strange animal that apparently prefers its underbelly to be brownish in color. Hence, it is found in greater abundance in areas where it has a tendency to rust.

The study by Quality Planning Corporation is supplied to the insurance industry to be used in setting rates, so whether you get pulled over or not, you can still be affected. See the link I posted in the other thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95694

Here's a link to a press release with some details:http://www.marketwire.com/press-release/Quality-Planning-Corp-936864.html Note that the data is for 'violations', not necessarily ordinary speeding. I suspect it therefore includes things such as 'unsafe lane changing' or 'excessive speed for road conditions', which would require a judgement call by the police officer. I could imagine situations where the Outback driver felt that the car was under complete control, but the officer (perhaps not having ever driven a Subaru AWD) thought otherwise... Unfortunately, this might explain why my insurance premium is as high as it is, even though I've had no accidents or violations for decades.

Yes, aspect ratio is that of the tire sidewall to its width. However, both of the tires in question are the same (205mm) width, so it's the height (and slightly different positioning of the maximum width point) that will vary. Here's a link to an online calculator that provides comparison data, including the effect on speedometer readings: http://www.net-comber.com/tirecalc.html

Perhaps Google "auto trans pressure gauge". Here's a hit from doing that: http://www.toolrage.com/prodView.asp?sku=ATD-5550

Actually, it's fuse #12, which powers circuit FB-30 (high-mount as well as left and right brake lights, AT shift lock control, and apparently cruise control disengage) and circuit FB-31 (horn relay), based on the wiring diagram.

Not that new parts is a bad idea, but I'd still suggest putting a pressure gauge on it beforehand.

No problem, I guess it bears saying twice. Here are some links with info about the oil pump: http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Pdfs/092001_08.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf (page 12, bottom, left)

Umm, see the second paragraph of my post #4 in this thread.

Other possible reasons for low dry compression readings are fuel dilution of the oil, or the wrong viscosity oil. Fuel dilution, if sufficient, can often be detected just by smelling the oil on the dipstick. If that's the case, an oil change will usually bring the compression readings up. However, fuel dilution itself is sometimes a sign of bad rings, so any improvement in dry compression with fresh oil might be temporary. A 50% increase in compression readings from dry to wet concerns me. If the rings are indeed the culprits, at the mileage the car has it would likely point to poor maintenance or abuse. That would make me leery of the car in general. Unless the deal was very good, allowing for a cushion in case significant problems developed later, I'd avoid this particular car.

As far as I know, there's no Mobil 1 Clean 5000. There is Mobil Clean 5000 (conventional oil with slightly elevated detergency), Mobil 1 (full synthetic), and Mobil Clean 7500 (synthetic blend). How many miles on the engine? If you can prove that the Clean 5000 created a problem, you might have a valid warranty claim. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_Clean_5000_Warranty.aspx You could put a pressure gauge on the engine and determine what's actually going on. Is there any leakage from the front crank seal? If so, it might be that some of the oil pump back plate screws have loosened and backed out, and that the Mobil oil cleaned things just enough for the pressure at idle to now be below the threshold for the sender.

I just read your other thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95414 The VDC/ABS light issue described in that thread could be a sensor problem, but it might also be due to a resistive connection or even low system voltage. In conjunction with the other electrically-related problems, I'm inclined to believe that either there's a basic electrical system problem, or there are several discrete poor connections. You're obviously aware of electrical/electronic issues, and so know that resolving intermittent troubles can be very frustrating. Best of luck in getting the dealer to do the right thing.

The two problems may be related. I just looked at a 2001 wiring diagram (didn't have the 2003 one handy), and at least in 2001 the power for both the heated seats and the auto A/C control are routed through the same fuse. I wonder if your troubles are both due to supply voltage drop from a poor connection, possibly at or near the fuse box.

You're welcome -- hope you pin it down some day.

That reminds me of a bit about some home improvements: 1) Remove roof and temporarily set aside. 2) ...

Another method measures cranking current (amperage) and correlates that with compression for each cylinder, which also has its limitations on accuracy. I still like to pull plugs and take a gauge reading, but there's no question with certain engines, that takes some time.

I wonder if they did a real (pull the plugs and use a gauge) compression test, or determined it via an engine analyzer. Analyzers use cranking speed to estimate compression --variation in that speed translates fairly well to pressure differences, but absolute compression reading is too dependent on how warm the engine is, battery condition, etc., to be accurate.

Depending on your driving style and other factors, 19.3 MPG might be on the low side. Do you have access to a scan tool (not just a code reader)? If so, the LTFT (Long Term Fuel Trim) and STFT (Short Term Fuel Trim) (especially idling for a while with engine warm) numbers and sign (+/-) could determine if the ECU is correcting for an A/F-related defect, and help point in what direction to go. I'd suggest only considering an OEM (Subaru) front O2 sensor, which might be reasonable if purchased at discount from an online supplier. Of course, check the less expensive stuff first.

Ooops, almost forgot to mention a possibly dirty IACV, and to check for any vacuum leaks.

If the ignition is in good shape, then a floating idle speed usually points to mixture problems. The engine runs open-loop when cold, defaulting to a rather rich mixture, which can disguise certain things. Once it warms up and the ECU can read oxygen sensor data, it should go to closed-loop operation, and be leaner-running. Besides the things that bheinen74 mentioned, a front oxygen sensor that's misbehaving can sometimes cause the problem, as can something as simple as a dirty PCV system; often neither will cause a code to be set. Gas mileage can be a rough indicator of whether the mixture is wrong -- what are you getting?

Details might help with a diagnosis. Is the idle rough just when cold, just when warm, all the time, etc.? Exactly what was done/replaced at 60k? Some links to possibly useful info: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/LegacyIdleSum04.pdf http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/fuel/FtEmissionServiceS01.pdf

2.2 Liter, timing belt: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf Motor Magazine series; starts with 2.2, then moves on to 2.5: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/072001_08.pdf</p> http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/112001_08.pdf (last one includes new-style tensioner info)

Gary covered it pretty well, but here's a link to what Subaru (EndWrench) says on the topic:http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/VehicleWont.pdf

I've attached a wiring diagram of the Duty Solenoid A circuit. If you disconnect the 16-pin connector B11 from T4, you can check the resistance of the solenoid between T4 pin 4 (ground) and pin 7. Expect to see about 3 ohms (the tolerance is about +/- an ohm). The part shown attached to B4 is the dropping resistor, which tempers how hard the shifts are. In addition to checking for open circuits, you should also check for shorts/leakage to ground.