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I'm gonna hijack this..... So will Legacy struts and spindles work on a EA82? I realize the axles are different sizes and what not, but there has to be a way. I have a clean Legacy front clip at the shop (Hit very hard in the rear end) and I'd love to have that 5 lug setup on my wagon with some Outback sized tires on it...

I'm prolly gonna catch some crap for sayin this, but not many can change a tire..

4/4 for a EA82!!!! I want one. Mudrat and PK should do business in parallel. It'd work out good for us Alaska guys to have a kit thats made and can be shipped from a place a lil farther north then California (I think thats where it was supposed to be sent from when I was looking at lifts) It'd prolly save 50 bucks in shipping just being one state farther north. What size tires can be run with this 4/4 lift? Without cutting fenders

hey I'm back at work on the devil of a turbo wagon. Got some vacumn lines unplugged. They are coming from the module bolted to the front of the passenger side strut tower. Two of the lines are going somewhere, but there are two that are loose. and then there is one vacumn line off the intake thats open. What is the module bolted to the strut tower? its kinda sandwiched in-between the airbox/MAF and the tower

this happened on my wagon. it ended up being a cracked fuel line right next to one of the clamps. start the car, get it hot and start wigglin fuel lines.. you should see it spray out somewhere. if its SPFI, be careful because there is 60 PSI of fuel pressure in the lines. hope this helps.

its most likely the hoses goin to the firewall from the engine. They are routed close to the clutch arm, so they are prone to leaking due to rubbing on the arm. top off with coolant, start the car, let it get warm. get a flashlight and look aroumd the coolant hoses, pull on them to flex the hose. This will help open the leak so you can see where its coming from. Careful not to get antifreeze in your eyes from the spray.. IT hurts

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=62

Wanna do me a favor and check all the XT turbos for 3.7 LSD rear end? If so, pull it apart and get me the LSD carrier...

John - I just added the write up to the USRM - Repair and Mod section. Since you wrote it, I just posted it, Your name is on the write up

yeah there is still a lathrop highschool.. They got decent sports teams this year... Anyways, front swaybar helped understeer on gravel, and gave me prolly an inch of travel in the front. The swaybar keeps the control arms and struts linked together. with out the sway bar, its completely independent from end.

well I did the carb fuel pressure test.. fuel comes out when you crank on it with the fuel line disconnected. What about theh float test kelly? how do I do it I reset the timing as soon as I got the engine. would it being too retarted make it not rev out?

So I bought another 86 GL wagon carb'd for 250 bucks Got the thing running, but it runs really rough. ITs got a remanufactured carb on it. kid musta just put it on, till shiny. I found he hooked up one of the vacumn lines into the carb so it was sucking all the fuel out of the carb. He also had the choke spring on the wrong side of the choke, so when you hit the gas, the choke acutally closed instead of opening. The kid also had the idle mixture screw turned all the way in. How many turns out should it be at? I set it at 1 1/2 turns out. Had a plugged 2nd cat, so I unhooked the exhuast at the tranny. It still running rough. It wont rev past 3 grand, and when you really stomp on it, it feels like its running out of fuel. it start to stumble really bad. Its got a clean filter on it. The kid had the filter off and the pump unbolted cuz he thought his pump was bad, when it was really just a frozen fuel line cuz he got a batch of bad gas. So what I did to it was temporarily plugged all the vacumn lines so its just like my carb'd EA82, and it still wont REv like it should. driving it, it seriously lacks get up and go. I seafoamed the carb today, and it seemed to help a little bit. Anyone have any ideas on things to check or what may be going on? I'd like to get rid of this thing soon so I can pay my rent, so I'm going all out to get it running good.

you are running an EA82 in an airplane? You got balls of steel man. thats crazy.. keep an eye on those timing belts..

there is two bolts holding it down.. loosen them slightly. turn the disty counterclock wise to retard the timing. this will fix your pinging problem

Man I'd love to attend. It'd be awesome if it was around the time of WCSS7. I'm trying to plan out a rally race from Fairbanks to circle via the historical trail for next fall..

Yes the EJ22 is 12 mm shorter then the EA82. Therefore the adapter is 12 mm thick. 85sub4wd - prolly the Gen 2 EJ22s have the stuff you are talking about

get JL Audio W7 12" and a 10" get seperate boxes and you put the 10 in the back on the drivers side. the 12 inch goes on the passenger side to equal out the pounding. Now get a 1000 watt Kicker or Rockford Fosgate Amp

You're the man miles. thanks for the quick reply goin to get parts..

yeah it happens to any oil that gets pumped or circulated. If you've used Lucas Oil stabilizer any time in that oil or in the previous oil thats why theres the bubbles.

goddamn that looks like fun. I'm thinking about setting up a rally race up here. we have this trail called the Fairbanks to Circle historical trail. Its like 50 or 60 miles long, crosses 3 mountains. If I end up doing it, its going to be a N/A race. No turbos (so I can have a chance) If anyone is interested in settin this race up, let me know

Alright, well my roommate bought my 85 brat from me. Hes rallyied the hell out of it. Driving home last night the back drivers side tire locked up. he limped it home and after looking today, the wheelbearing looks shot cause thehh axle output shaft is sitting sorta sideways going into the control arm my question is will any EA81 rear axle fit on the brat? or what about EA82 rear axles? they are both 3.9 rear diffs so I dont see why it wouldnt fit. The biggest problem is that I'm having to drive him to work now at 7 am (I dont goto work until 1 pm) I need to get this fixed. So if the axles will work off an 84 wagon, I'm gonna bust off the whole assembly and just put the axle and control arm on together. What you guys think Thanks in advance for who ever answers

The mud is worse.... expecially if you gotta jack the car up.. wow -45 F this morning and I gotta go get my roomates brat to start..

http://www.truckstuffusa.com/slimwinviswi.html there ya go lots good stuff I'd send em an email and tell em what kind of car you have and see if they woulld make some for you. or if not, get dimensions of different models and see how that match up with the dimensions of your ride.

First off, stereos in cars and trucks is a fun, but spendy hobby. I noticed that I've always wanted a louder stereo with more bass. Up until I was going through an alternator a week. You are going to have to upgrade the elec charging system via battery cap, dual batteries, higher output alternator. (If you are going above 600 or 700 Watt amps) Do you have a aftermarket CD player in the dash? if so, take it out, or get access to the wires. There will be a blue wire. splice into that wire for the remote wire. You can use 16 to 20 gauge wire for that. For the power wire, you need something like 4 to 8 gauge wire. You will need about 20 feet of it if you want to run the wires under the carpet or floorboard trim if its a wagon. Hook this wire the positive slot on the amp. Take a 30+ amp fuse holder and hook it between the positive wire and the battery. Take another short section of 4 to 8 guage wire for the ground. You want you ground wire as short as possible. I use one of the bolts for the rear seatbelts. Its a fairly big bolt, so look for a big O-ring connector. Now you need a pair of RCA cables. They will run from the AUX or Subwoofer outputs on the back of the CD player. plug the other end into the amp. Get speaker wire of your choice. Remeber thicker wire with stereos is better except for signal wires like the remote wire (acts as a switch that turns the amp on, and then the amp is powered by the positive) Hook the positive on the battery back up, test it out. Another thing, cd players, speakers, subs and amps are something that are worth putting money into. Just make sure you do soundproofing along with the stereo modifications. Subarus rattle like hell with a loud stereo in it. Find some Dynamat or sound proofing sheets and soundproof the car. Do the whole trunk if its going in a trunk. If its a wagon, do the back hatch under the trim panels, under the carpet, under the head liner above the back cargo area. All this can be done and the inside will still look normal if you take a little time and dont break any of the plastic. Good luck, lemme know if something doesnt work

its a 87 carb'd... only one fuel filter located before the fuel pump in front of the passenger rear tire. Do you have to pass emissions down there? If not, strip all the vacumn lines off the carb and intake. get caps that fit over them. they sell them in sets. the blue ones and red ones were the ones I used. 1/8" and 3/16" I believe. just make sure any line you take off, you plug off. You should have two or three vacumn lines left when you are done. One for the cabin heater controls, one for the egr valve, one for the vac advance on the disty, and the 1/2" brake booster line. they rest of the stuff can go. there is one line that runs from the firewall to the evap cansiter, that is a fuel tank vent. that needs to be left open Now you have a happy carb, and a engine that looks ALOT cleaner and everything is 10x easier to get to. pull the fuel return line off the carb after trying to start the car. does fuel spill out of that? if so, you are returning too much fuel. pull the fuel line off and crank the car. fuel should spill out. It doesnt spray out on a carb'd car. if you got fuel when you crank on it, your fuel pump is working. if not go to a you pull it junkyard.. fuel pump fits in your pocket, go in to get an light cover or something off a car and pull the pump for free. a vacumn leak would make your car run like crap when its cold.