torxxx

whast the full name of the Yield stuff and who makes it? I can use my business license from work to get a few cans if they sell it in Alaska.. Sounds like great stuff. One idea, take a cold chisel and break the heads off.. take a drill, drill the holes out and just put bigger screws in it. Since its on the fuel system DO NOT HEAT WITH A TORCH (unless you like 3rd degree burns all over your body)

get some stainless steel metric washers. I've ran my wagon with ea81 rims with those washers to offset them so the rim didnt rub on the caliper. they work just fine.

get 5 quaRTS OF gear oil just to be safe. it should hold 3.8 quarts I believe

You need to get familiar with your car: u dont have a computer in that car. If you dont have a computer in it, you dont have a o2 sensor. what you do is strip all the vacumn lines off the intake. ditch the evap canister. make sure you plug aLL the vacumn lines WITH NO LEAKS. The only vaccumn lines you should have are one going to your choke/secondary, one to the heater, the big brake booster line and thats about it unless you have some sort of push button 4wd in that 83

SPFI ea82, Will the Vehicle speed sensor, make a engine not idle right? I think its the TPS or the EGR selinoid, but a few guys at work are sayin the VSS. This is what the owner told me: cuz i was gettin a code 33 (speed sensor).. and after lookin into it, it detects the vehicle speed, and tells the computer whats up... which in turn, will do fuel corrections..? help me out here guys

all you need is a screwdriver and a 12mm socket 17 mm socket, rachet and extention.

could be the idle jet.. I think these carbs have those on em. Did they rejet the carb when they rebuilt it? If so, idle jet might be too small and that'd be the reason it'd act like it was starving for fuel. Another thing, the choke should be fully open when you are idling. When you first start the engine, and its cold, it will idle like crap. My car, even with a new working choke I still have to rev it up a lil for the first 30 seconds it runs, then it idles fine. Throttle cable too tight?

first to start, I have a stripped hitachi on my wagon here it goes. Considering its a carb, it can only be so many things: I have a stripped hitachi on my wagonSpark, air, fuel, compression. Compression should be 120 psi+ Timing - 7-12 degrees it will run right (IF the timing belts are on exactly how they are supposed to be) Fuel pressure should be between 3 and 6 PSI only when you cranking on the engine, or its running Plugs should be gapped at .44 err .044 whatever it is.. Since its in a boat, you need NO emissions stuff. The only vacumn lines you should have is going to the choke, and to the secondary. Plug All the other vacumn lines, or better yet, take the intake off and remove the all the hard lines and weld em shut. I assume you arent runnin the stock airbox? What are you doing for the exhaust? most marine applications are wet exhuast so it makes me wonder have new plugs/wires/rotor cap/fuel filter/coil? a fault in any of those could cause poor idle. Another thing, I bought a car with a rebuilt hitachi carb from holley on it. It was garbage. I put my 19 year old carb off my wagon on that engine, and purred like a kitten let me know, I'd like to see it run right. EA82 in a boat is a great idea

it dont matter on the front of a ea82 axles except for turbo'd axles (25 spline)they are all the same length and spline 2wd and 4wd except for 3AT turbo tranny is 25 splines but other then that I know auto ea81 rear axles are the same as a manual axle for sure.. the brats rollin like that. Miles where are you? he knows the answer to this post.. hopefully he'll chime in and help me out here...

is it possible to weld the front diff of a EA82 d/r tranny? I took apart a legacy tranny today at work, and I'm amazed how easy they are. would it work for strictly offroad driving? or is this just pipedreams... oh yea, what about the center diff?

lemme know if you need any spfi parts.. we got a few wagons down at the shop.

check for vacumn leaks. they are the most common cause of poor/rough idle use the sticker on the underside of the hood about the vacumn lines. make sure everything is hooked up right.

mtsmith - a nightlight huh? no, the block heaters are 100 watt +.. I think mine says 450 watt on it. Add the 60 w oil pan heater and 60 w battery blanket, you are up to 200-600 watts an hour. Add on another car for the average house hold, You got up to 1200 watts an hour. 8 hours of sleep thats 3 kW to 10 kW your car/cars just used. say you plug your car every night for a month like we've had to this winter, thats 90 to 300 kW that your car used being plugged in all night compared to spending 10 bucks now and not having to worry about it. And not everyone lives were electricity is 3 cents/kW. Its 20 cents/kW where I live now. Where I grew up, 27 cents/kW Find me a car that warms up toasty warm in 5 minutes when its -50 F outside, and I'll show you a c#%% sucker from guatemala.

whats the temperature there? I have a timer on mine (get at a hardware store, its just a 10 dollar timer) set to turn on two hours before I goto work in the morning. I dont plug my car in until it gets before 0 F. Even then, just an hour of being plugged in, it would start right up. At -50F, I plug it in for 3 hours. Flow is right. There is no on/off switch. There should be a plug with wire running from under the engine. On the older ones, its between the 1 and 3 cylinders just inside of the exhaust port. the plug will run to a brass dealy bobber that screws into the block. its like 50 mm wide I think.

same here... lol people need to come to alaska and drive. try taking a mercury sable through thompson pass with 2 feet of snow on the road. We drove from fbks to valdez in 6 1/2 hours (normal trip is 6 hours) Pushed snow over the hood for 40 miles of the drive.

Its called rear disc brake conversion. worth the money and the time. goto a jy and find a turbo wagon. the brake pads are prolly still good on it. 40 bucks you could have rear discs...

get a diff carb. goto a jy and get a low mileage carb. or rebuild yours

If someone needs a a car, I could prolly throw one together. I got two carb blocks sittin in my yard.. one with a bent valve and the other one is a rebuilt engine that they guy couldnt get to run... (disty was 180 out)

check the vacumn lines that go to the passenger side strut tower to a canister then into the cabin. Also, you can reach up by the gas pedal and you will feel the air diaphram linkage, I think its the upper one, push the linkage in and it should go on to defrost. May not fix the prolbem, but hey, at least you'll have defrost

gotta use hose that has the white reinforcement fiber in it. Hell you could use low pressure rubber hydraulic hose (its got cable strands in it)

the japanese motors are for right hand drive cars so the they have the turbos on the side where in our cars, is the steering shaft and knuckle. Hydraulic steering and you'd be able to make it fit maye

well there we go.. that makes 4 of us that'll be in fairbanks that weekend. kelly is comin up too.. matt, you bringin the braT? it'd be cool to get a video with the 2 brats and the 2 wagons makin a few laps on the old icetrack..

EA82 u-joints are pretty strong from my driving time in a soobie. Yes I have gone through 3 driveshafts, but that was after I smoked the carrier bearing, then drove on the stock 16 year old ujoints for 2 months. I've dropped my clutch pretty damn hard, and an axle will snap before the ujoints/driveshaft. I shoulda took a picture of the ujoint on the shaft I took out today. All the needles fell out of the caps. There was 1/4 inch play on each stud/cap. drove it like that for the last two months. Thats with iceracing and jumping...

I've hit my share of stuff with my wagon.. I'm going with bad bushing or blown struts. these control arms are strong as hell... There is a lot of rubber in the sooby rear end.....

down with domestics..... hp with big blocks is for fools... hurrah for 4 cylinder power beeeeeeeeeeeeeeiiiiiitches oh yea..... support our troops