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well thats one of the downfalls of subaru. considering the wires are 17 years old, but still. they used wire with too thin of insulation, they used crappy copper untwisted wire. Put any of the wires in the cold and slam them in the door on accident, or push a fender in so it bends the wiring harness and the stuff snaps on the inside of the insulation so you cant see the break. They make this stuff called arctic wire up here in Alaska. Stuff stays bendable at -60 F. They use actually rubber insulation like spark plug wires are made out of. its expensive, but I've though about having them make me a wiring harness for my car. prolly cost a 1000 bucks, but the wire would outlast everything else on the car.

exactly miles..

pay the plane ticket and I'll fix it...

EA82.. carb it just so you dont have to rewire everything EA82 carb should switch right over and wire right in with your old stuff..

thats about how it is here. all my friends call me crazy..... I'll pull an engine in this temp is the $$$ is right... OH well.. the car is running.... wonder whats gonna go next...

I outta start a club for people who've worked on soobies outside when its colder then -25F. Its -40F right now and I just got done with the 10 minute timing belt swap... broke my right side belt... thats what I get for using belts found on the floor at the shop.

my gauge just had -15 PSI of pressure this morning for 15 minutes of warming up. Yeah it is -40 outside... maybe thats why

Listen to MilesFox. HE knows what hes talkin about . Open covers are the way to go. some members will say that you'll get oil or antifreeze on your t-belts.. yeah you might, but it will just spin off any oil or antifreeze that gets on them, instead of oil/antifreeze leaking into the covers and spinning around inside the covers and constantly recoating the belts. to what Tom63050 said about the waterpump pipe. - if you ever take that out, you HAVE To replace the oring. they are a one time use oring. you may get a second use out of it, but its gonna suck when the oring finally goes and you crack some heads because you didnt change the 10 cent oring 85Sub4WD - "the hard part is getting the crank pulley bolt off. (and it really isn't that hard if you put a screwdriver in to lock the flywheel." This is the EASIEST PART OF THE JOB. put a 22mm on a 1/2" 18 inch breakerbar. on the crank pulley bolt. now brace the breaker bar against the core support on the driverside of the car. (where the raid sits against on the buttom) now unplug the coil to disty wire and bump the starter for about a half second. Done deal....

In the US - DL's = single range 4wd GL's = Dual range 4wd XTs - single, dual and fulltime 4wd? RX - fulltime and dual? Loyale = Single range 4wd Dual Range is the way to go. single range tranny seem to be geared a little bit higher then a dual range. I've never liked any of the single range 4wds I've driven. they made dualranges in the us until the end of the 89 year models.

you have a short somewhere in the wires going to the headlights or tail lights. soobies run on a circular system. it starts on the the front side of the car, goes to the taillights and then back up the other side headlight. a few months ago at work we had this happen on a EA82 wagon. took 3 days of chasing wires. start with checking the pigtails that run to the marker lights and then to the blinkers. they usually go bad and will make this happen. Save yourself some time and get an Ohms meter and a test light.

one thing to remember is the subaru stock intrument gauges SUCK. They are some of the most inaccurate gauges I've ever seen. If you had no REAL oil pressure, 5 minutes of running your engine and it would have seized. the HLAS woulda clacked like hell and rods woulda started knocking. the sending unit either went bad, or the sending wire got broke or unplugged. Oh yea the sending wire is yellow and it ties in with a wire going to a intake temp sender

weathershield.. lets see in american terms that would be the visors that would go on the door frame? to keep water out of the window edge when its cracked? I think Chevy/GMC s-10 ones would work, but you'd have to stick them on the A pillar due to subarus lack of door frames I've been thinkin about the idea for a few years, just never got around to sizing them up. pretty sure a ones for a small truck (s-10, ranger, dakota sport) all would work with a little bit of trimming.

62 mph = 3000 rpms in 5th gear.... I got the stock exhaust system with a gutted muffler (cut open, removed contents and welded it back up leaving some small holes) pulls great from 3200 to 5500 RPMS

Welll I picked up a 250 dollar 86' GL wagon. with a fresh rebuilt engine and a brand new hitachi carb. two minor dents in the car, no rust. 159,000 miles on it. new snow tires, new exhaust from the catback. As soon as I get the title crap taken care of, time to sell for 2 grand and then use that money to buy a clean body to lift finally..

hey guys, I got a really wicked vibration coming from the back of the car. I'm thinking its the carrier bearing on the driveshaft. thinking its developed a wobble. My rear diff fluid looks good, I just changed it 5,000 miles ago and added some posi track additive cuz it helps with chatter. Anyone got any ideas or comments on whats goin on with my car? My throwout bearing is starting to go out, but I dont think that has anything to do with the vibration. could I be wrong?

yup kelly is right on the sooby price.. my boss sells EA82 GL wagons any day of the week for 2000-2500 bucks... alaska market value is a lot higher

Goodyear Ultragrips work great. I'm currently running BF Goodrich Trailmaker plug tires (studable, but I dont have any in em) And my old Brat had Pacemark High Tractions. All three are good tires

I use Bosch Platniums. The ones that are 1.99 a piece. I've had no problems with them, and I've put 10,000 miles on them. Several 400 mile trips. I've got them running in the Brat that I sold to my roommate and he hasnt had any problems with them either. The heat range thing is nice to know about. I think I'm gonna go get a set of colder plugs.

Lightforce lights. They make all different sizes, up to I think a 15 inch light. They come with different colored covers for the lights too. the light blue looks awesome. Lightforce are so bright, you could get away with 4 inch lamps no problem. put the 100 watt bulbs that 4wdfrenzy said and you'll be set

ummm yea thats pretty much what I just said.. and whats this butyl tape you speak of?

take off ALL vacumn lines except for the ones running the ERG valve and selinoid, the cabin heater, brake booster. You dont need any other of the vacumn lines if its a carb'd intake and have a manual choke 85sub4wd - "like the anti-backfiring valve I just remembered that carbed cars have - you don't want to disconnect that!!" - not true. the air injection system SUCKS. doesnt make a difference if its plugged off. My wagon runs great with a damn near completely stripped carb. All cleaned up, I think it looks better then a SPFI intake manifold, and everything is more accessable And to clean it up a lil more and make more room, get the SPFI air intake part of the system. the airbox and air boot that goes to the injector. it will fit over the mouth of the carb with very minor trimming.

so, dont wrap stock headers either with exhaust wrap? I've been thinkin about doin it from the header flange to the cat.

Soobies are glue in front windshields. You could cut one out with a razorblade and long knife, but the right tools make it 100x easier. Make sure you get the new molding (black and chrome rubber that goes around the window) they are glued in using Window Urethane. Its black stuff (nasty stuff) It HAS to be Windshield grade Urethane, or you WILL have leaks. After you get all the old urethane off the windshield spot, if there is any rust anywhere were glue is going to be put, you need to get this stuff called pinchweld primer or the urethane will not stick to it. When applying the urethane, do it in a V with the small part of the V pointing upward at you. The bead should be about 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick. Install window. Take two 4 inch wide pieces of masking tape (use the bright green stuff, sticks anywhere.) put two strips on the top of the windshield to the top of the cab. this will hold the window up in place until the urethane sets up Now squirt a very fine line of urethane all the way aroudn the windshield edge where the rubber molding goes, install the rubber molding, and take sure you masking tape ALL the rubbing molding down. leave the tape on for a day or two to make sure all the urethane cures. One other thing, leave one of the door glasses slighty cracked, so when you slam the door, the cabin pressure doesnt blow the seal out of the urethane. Good luck. Let me know if you have any other questions. I work at a glass shop

buy all the new gaskets and seals you'll need. new cam cover seals with the rubber edged grommets for the outer bolts. two o-rings for the oil passages between the camcase and the heads, new head gaskets, hi temp ultra blue silcone for the camcase to head seals. new intake gaskets, new exhaust gaskets (the thick shiny metal gaskets) the oil pan gasket - get from a subaru dealer. I recommend using all subaru oem parts/gaskets Tools needed: 10 mm socket/wrench, 12 mm socket, 17 mm deep well socket for the head bolts, 14 mm deep socket for the exhaust nuts and the engine mounts ( I suggest pulling the engine. it only takes about 10 more minutes to lift the engine out. trying to do headgaskets on the disty side is diffcult because of the lack of room on that side.) For installation, you will need to torq the head bolts down 3 times. 27, 43 and 47 pounds. a chiltons or haynes manual or the FSM has the diagram of the tightening sequence. Since you have everything off your engine now, you might as well reseal your oil pump. there is a round o ring and a mickeymouse shaped o ring good luck.

I take it this thing has custom axles in it? stock ones wouldnt be able to handle that much travel would they?