MilesFox

Generic CIA will screw up your helmolz resonator. Go for the SPT

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Try changing the sensor first. It's right on the oil pump. The gauges are notorious for being inacurate, and common to show 0 oil pressure at idle. Love the sedan, it reminds me of one i had. keep the 2-tone if you paint it!

Not recommemded. Realize this is an ea82 with pre-OBD engine management, and is no comparison to modern day impreza. This does not mean you can't upgrade this car. You can use an intercooler and a recirculating valve. Just realize and understand you are working with a strange and foreign car from the 1980's, unconventional by then and today's standards. This is a car you are more or less going to have to 'invent' upgrades for, as there are no aftermarket parts for ea82 engines. But you can retrofit parts from newer subarus, and use aftermarket parts for the parts retrofitted. Search the retrofit forums in regard to using impreza engines. Just a regular ej22 out of an early 90's legacy non-turbo has 20 more hp than the ea82 turbo go to the xt forums and search 'monster wedge' to get an idea of what you can do with the car's original engine.

Regular maintenance, for one. You can adapt xt6 drivelines, and therefore get into impreza front suspension. If the original ea82 turbo motor takes a dump, opt for an ej20g, since the car has the right crossmember for a turbo engine. aside from all that, make sure all the hoses are good. Go ahead and replace them if you do not want this car to take a dump. The ea82 can be fun, but blow a hose and you cooked the heads. Any maintenance or upgrade you can do to the cooling system will make it most reliable. Do not overboost this engine. IF you do your research, and your searching, you should find out what the parameters with this engine is. try joining the subaru.xt com forums, the link is at the top of this page. There are things you can do with this car, but there are things you shouldn't do with this car. The car itself is novel, enjoy it!

The outer splines are all the same, and fits the knuckle the same. Ths spline count refers to the inner DOJ, 23, or 25

You will need to chop in the whole ea82 subframe. The ea82 trailing arms will bolt in, but you will not gain a wider track from that alone.

you can tow it on a dolly so long as the 4wd is not engaged. This is a part-time trans with no center diff. rear wheels just freewheel the same as if the care were driven in FWD. if you ar eusing a towbar, you are good to go. leave the key in the car and unlock the steering. leave the trans in neutral.

I wouldnt's know of any trails up nort der hey, but there is a little urban baja in milwaukee. Tom (The Loyale) in wakesha knows of some trails. Scott (Xbeerd) has the driving light using the relay and headlight ground. This was a circuit i made, and then swapped it over to scott's car. YOu can find our milwaukee crowd at dirtyimpreza.com in the regional forums if you want to check us out. Good luck with your lighting. i would like to see what you would come up with

Does the 4wd not work, or is the car front wheel drive. you can shif into 4wd while driving, just let off the gas, engage, go. Do not do this while spinning wheels while stuck. But you can drive in and out of 4wd at any speed.

As far as turning wrenches, the subaru is faily accessible to the average joe who can change his own oil or spark plugs. If you had the mind to do your timing belts at 100,000 miles, or bought a used one, and addressed the service intervals based on the mileage, you would never have rusty tool-breaking procedres, and you nwould have a car that is particular on maintenance, but easy to service, versus any tranverse type arrangemant. To contrast, there are die hard patriotic folk who wouldnt consider a subaru, or you have old timer mechanics that can build chevelles, but not fathom the odd arrangement of a horizontal engine. LAbor rates or bad mechanics can be attributed to either a high rate based on specialist import shops, or a fair price mechanic, but may not be familiar or even stumped by the strange subaru. You would think anyone into old VW beetles would understand a subaru, but they were in it for the cult of the car instead of the design of the engine. Most failures in suibarus that cause complaints are caused by a lack of routine maintenance intervals, or odd mechanics being unaware of subaru specific tips and tricks.

You could expect a little bit of back and forth with the wheel off the ground, grabbing it and trying to turn it. you would get a little play from the slacjk of the overall driveline. What are your methods of troubleshooting?

You can do an ea82 front suspension. Example: I had a 83 fwd 5spd wagon with ea82 front suspension. I was able to use the eaq81 strut top on the ea82 by drilling out the hole. The hole is D shaped, which locates it on the ea81 strut. The ea82 strut rod is round. You may have to put a vice grip on the strut rod to torque the nut. I went the routew of swapping ea82 control arms by chopping off the mounts form the ea82 crossmember, and welding them to the ea81 crossmember, locating the control arm back, to compensate for its curvature. The ea82 control arm is longer, allowing he use of the ea82 axle. What i have described has been posted on a brat build using xt6 suspension, same idea, less the xt6 parts. Otherwise, you could use the ea81 control arm and cram the ea82 knuckle in there, ball jount and all. But, you will not be able to use the ea82 axle, with a narrower track on the ea81 control arm. IT is possible to hybrid an axle using an ea82 cv end on an ea81 axle shaft. This is a speculation, based on the fact subarus fit like legos. The seal is a different You can use an ea82 rear trailing arm by drilling out the pivot bolt mount and using the ea82 pivot bolt. It fits the same, with the added bonus of a larger drum or rear disc brake(if on the donor part, otherwise the brake parts themselves swap either way) and rear swaybar mounts, but the same width of an ea81 track.

Looks like you had some good traction. Ice appears to have some grain instead of a slick. Get that ice wet, or let it glaze over, and see what's up. What video software did you use to edit?

you can use a relay to turn on driving lights with the high beam. On the light side, you can run power from positive battery, through the relay, to the lights, then to ground. To trip the relay, run pos from the battery to the relay, and ground it at the high beam pin on the headlight harness. The ehadlights do ground at the switch. if you poke a test lite at all 3 terminals of the bilb, they will show hot. The switch grounds the bulbs. use this ground at the headlight terminal to activate the relay.

it illuminates the reverse lights, when you put the car in reverse. its pretty self explanatory.

The inner end of the axle is designed to slide in and out to allow for suspension travel. This is a DOJ (double offset jount) vs the outer CV (constant velocity)

order for a turbo with manual trans. this will guarantee a 25 spline axle

The spfi engine will have more compression than the carb version. however, a carb manifold will bolt onto the same engine. And once you do that, you can install a weber. If you are going through the trouble of chopping a wiring harness and ecu for fuel injection, an ej22 from 90-96 legacy will be easier to find, and less trouble to maintain.

How is the battery? rapid clicks would suggest low voltage. A single click would suggest a bad connection to the solenoid. Try jumping a wire from the battery to the small terminal on the starter. If that works, investigate the ign swithc, or install a pushbutton. If you get the car to start, look on the dash. IF the brake warning light is glowing, this means the alternator is failing.

How many miles? It is possible the water pump is inefficient, as the impeller can wear out and corrode, and cause cavitation of flow. Do look for bubbles in the radiator.

My 94 gt wagon will now and agian wig out on dry pavement from a slow stop. The abs light comes on, and then goes off. One time i parked my car in the garage, came out 20 min later, and the abs pump was wigging out creating a buzzing sound, withthe car off and parked. I had to unplug the pump and put a charger on the battery. ABS is whack, and so are automatic seat belts, and anything that is 'by wire' instead of a mechanical linkage. You might as well send the car out to do errands itself, less the driver, withthe way thay are designing them these days. my 2 cents..

Subarus are selling better now than they ever have. So there are more people with subarus. But unless you know subarus over the last 30 years, you are going to freak out the first time it needs service, and mechanics freak out the first time someone brings them a subaru. The internet provides links to here from search results. It's a parallel

The ignition swithc is the part you would use a screwdriver. Not anything to do with the key, unless it doesnt turn all the way. The small tab on the back of the starter is a low draw circuit for the solenoid. You can run a wire through the clutch or speedo grommet, and feed the wire under the dash to place a button where the fog light switch would be on the dash, or the knoclkout plate on the bezel(87 and up whre the fan switch would be on 85-86), or wherever. You do not need a high amp bulky button like you see at the auto stores. the 'horn' button will roek, or any nuicer momentary contact button with a retauning nut to mount into a hole. Run from the starter to the button, and then from the button to a 12v source. You can borrow power from the fuse panel at a fuse that is on with run, acc, or hot all the time. My preference is 12v live when key off, for purposes of maintenance. you can use fuse 5. if you tie in elsewhere, put a fuse in the circuit in case the wire grounds out

I agree. With a little luck, you should be able to take off the caliper and lube it up. At least remove it to check it out. My experience with stuck calipers is due to the last set of pads wearing sop low that the piston is hyper extendes and rust forms on the exposed piston beyond the boot. So when you push it back in fo rthe new pads, it can get stuck. If the boots are ripped and it looks really bad, just get a new/reman caliper, as it will be easier than trying to rebuild it, or based on the availabiltiy of a rebuild kit. If you can get it apart, and free up stuck sludes, you can clean them up with pb blaster and steel wool, and re-lubricate it. You should be able to find boots or new slides pins. Use 'syl-glide' brand or equivalent sylicone lube. This particular brand can be found at napa. or do the 99c packets at the auto retailers.