MilesFox

you probably have a failing water pump which lead to the overheat, which led to bubbles in the coolant, which are indicative of a head gasket failure(beginnings of it) you will have a high probability of success using a block sealer, such as k&w brand to buy you time for a repair. do you know the service history of the car?

how about this? the cone filter would be the shaker part. the scoop is welded to the hood

make 3 passes starting from thge middle and working your way out. do not go straight to 47 lbs the first time 22 27 47

I have a loyale trans with 105,000 miles in WI, if you ever had to replace it. Follow GD's advice with the governor shaft. for repair books, the HAYNES book does not cover any transmission service for the work/money involved in replacing/rebuilding the trans, you could source a 4 or 5spd trans for the same effort. you will nned the manual trans, flywheel abd flywheel bolts, along with clutch and pp for the trans you use. along with the driveshaft and trans mount. you can use the same axles, and the rear diff if its a 3.9 gear if you do a 4spd trans its all bolt in. if you do a 5spd trans, you will have to massage the trans tunnel to clear the rear of the trans, or even space the mount from the body by stacking a few washers

clutch cable may be too tight. it it has been too tight all along, it probaby stretched the pressure plate. back off the clutch cable all the way, then snug it up just enough to take the slack out of the fork. any more adjustment will be for pedal feel. dont go too tught, and have your pedal way up in the air. the door lock light will remain on if any one door is unlocked. simply lock the doors, this is normal function(for cars with power lock)

i used to have 'super wagon' badges from an old ford short bus on my 79 pinto wagon. too coool

YO! welcome to usmb. I have been over to your father's garage a few times, remember me? I came to pick up the brat turck cap, and was over there thanksgiving weekend(had my girl with me). If your old man cant answer your question, you can always ask me;)

original bolts are 6mm x 1.0 thread, 10mm hex. some of the bolts on the valence may be 12m depending on year. i forgot to mention the marker lite. there is a screw in the bottom corner on the side, that goes into the fenter, and one on the top, that goes to the headlight bucket. be sure to remove them and the light before pulling the fender if you break a bolt, you can drill it out and install 'riv-nuts', which are threaded inserts you install with a rivet tool

pull the bumper. you will have better access to get to the bolts on the front. watch out for those bolts, they can break if too rusty, especially the bolts thu the valence. the bumper bolts are immediately below the battery or the charcoal can on the frame rails. to remove the bolt behid the door, open the door all the way and use a box end wrench, or a SHORT 1/4 dr socket with extension. if you pull the little door pin out you can get more clearance.

I can spare some interior parts. i can spare any air suspension components less the struts. sorry i cannot spare suspension or engine parts, since i am fixing up the car to run, but stripping out the interior(car is rusty, would make a good ice racer)

I installed a photo gallery on my website now. so hopefully more pics. the problem i have is my computer not recognizing my camera, and desmonds computer(which has my pics) not recognizing my flash drive, and the images are too big for usmb attachment. anyway...SUCESS!!!! i was able to just turn the whole intake port and unthread the bolt. the bold did turn enough to break torque from the thread, before it seized up in its bore on the intake. once i unthreaded the whole piece, i was able to knock out the offending bolt with a drift punch. Now all i need is a matching bolt. i have spares from spfi intakes, one of the shorter ones should match. I have o-rings now, the whole top end of the motor is ready to assmeble now(heads are already installed) I am an oil pan gasket away from dropping the engine back into the car.

you could have an issue with the crank angle sensor, or the coolant temp sensor. if the coolant temp sensor is bed, either the car will run great till it warms up, or the car it thinking its warm when its cold and therefore not richening the fuel to cold start. the idle air control valve may be stuck open or closed, and its function will be determined by the engine temp sensor.

check fuse #5 (horn/hazard/clock). this supplies constant volts to the ECU. Jumping the battery to the coil backfeeds volts to the ecu on the other side of this fuse. try that and see what happens

One: A twin turbo manual transmission flat 6 3rd generation alcyone/svx two: 'BRAT II' build from a 2-door impreza platform with forester suspension, dual range trans, and a pass-thru truck bed like the baja, but 2-door impreza based. the brat ii seems feasable with off the shelf parts. build it on the pre-2008 impreza chassis three: a 2-door wagon

one negative lead on the front, and one in the back will not be used. i just tape them off and tuck them out of the way. the stereo will ground to the chassis through the antenna wire. i have always used the common ground hookup every time i have installed radios in older soobs

sweet. i really like the 85-86 subarus, with the chunky steering wheel and the misplaced hazard and wiper! if you upgrade to a different grill i am looking for the honeycomb style

americans are too fat.

the subaru is a common ground. the left and right speakers use the same ground, for front, and for back. 2 of the ground wires on the aftermarket radio will not be used

I just did new brake pads and rotors on the front of a 95 legacy, just pads in rear. the bottom slides on the caliper were rusty. I used silicone caliper grease, and anti-sieze. At first the brakes were dragging. I could smell hot brake pads. I pumped up the brakes a bunch of times each time i stopped, and parked the car at napa. when i came back out, the car drove normally with good brakes. The pistons hyper extend enough that it rusts and then seizes to its bore when it's pushed back in. You could try pumping the brakes a lot, flexing the calipers, and flush out the old fluid.

you can just simply pull the fuse. the ABS fuse is clearly labelled. The only side effect of doing so is the ABS lite will be on on the dash. reinstall the fuse to restore the ABS and kill the warning lite. disabling the ABS will not compromise the brakes, and will be no less safe than a car without ABS. yanking the fuse vs making a kill switch is a non-permanent way to disable the abs without modification, and will not affect the value of the car if you were to sell it.

removing the dasj is easier if you drop/remove the steering column. drop the ecu from the steering column and leave it plugged into its connectors there are 3 bolts across the top, 1 on each side of the lower portion, and 2 below the radio. the dash hangs on mounts just behind it. there is a ground wire on the console bracket, dont for get that. you will need to unhook the heater cable from the heater box to the right of the gas pedal, and the vent cable on the left side of the dash above the hood release. everything will unplug from the fuse panel, left and right kick panel, pedal assembly, AC temperature thermoswitch and heater fan. therew are 2 vacuum lines, one on each side, coming from the firewall to plastic lines in the dash itself. myself, with prior experiance, can pull a dashboard within 20 min interesting idea with swapping colors, suppose you could do blue dash with blue door uppers, and grey door panels and seats against blue carpet, grey center console. I have a crazy idea to swap an XT dash into an ea82, supposedly they will bolt in

No clue on labor rates. I have always just re-used ea82 heads as they were. I pulled off a set of good ones and they measured .005 and .006 warped(concave) and the limit is .002. if you look at the torque sequence, you will see how the heads will flatten out. you could try yourself to take a drift and try and close the cracks between the valves. the worse thing that can happen with the crack between the valve is the potential to drop a valve seat, if the crack opens up enough

I tried to upload more pics, logged in as desmond, but they wouldnt go up. might have to resize them or host them elsewhere. i'll have them up later today.

having cracks between the valves is a normal occurrence. it is possible to use a drift and flatten out the crack, a good machinist should know of some way to stake it down. beware of cracks in the exhaust ports, those are the ones that will go through to a water jacket. have fun installing the cam towers. use some sticky assembly lube so the followers dont fall off as you go to install the cam tower. if you unbolt the motor mount studs and remove the pitch bar, you can jack up the engine several inches to clear the framerails, by placing a jack under the diff portion of the transmission. this will make the assembly a lot easier there is an o-ring in the cam tower that is very improtant (Where it meets the head on the corner), be sure to replace them

you will need intake and exhaust gaskets. You can do the cam seals before you reinstall the head. There is a water crossover pipe under the intake, go ahead and change the o-rings in that, since it can leak, and you would have to pull the intake to repair it you can leave the front crank seal and the oil/waterpump/timingbelt/idlers alone if you plan to come back and service those in the future. you should be able to buy the HG themselves individually, and pick up the other gaskets as individual parts. weigh the cost of individual parts vs a complete gasket set and get what's most economical