MilesFox

if it was the choke, it wouls still start up, or at least fire. if the motor is not firing at all, it could be the ignition system. sometimes the ignitor module will go out on the distributor. like i said, check for fuel and spark the choke will stay partially closed, its never wide open. it should be about 1/3 open normally

you can use a carb off any wagon, brat, hatchback, or coupe (ea81) some have the oxygen sensor type(hitachi's 2bbl) and some have a 1bbl carter/weber carb. whatever carb you get, get the whole carb/intake assembly so you dont have to mess with all the vacuum lines. you could even use a carb/intake off an 85-87 ea82 car give some more details about your carb/ is the throttle cable on the passenger side or driver side?

myoss feece connected his gauges to the interior dim switch(ea82) but if he faded the brights to dim, the gauge would get bright, and if he turned up the dash lights, the gauge would get dim. my favorite place to hook up a gauge is behind the heater control panel(ea81) there are 2 small bulbs there that plug into a white clip. i just stick my wire in the clip where the wires come out the back, just shove them in there and tape it to keep them from pulling out! the light will dim with the rest and work like its supposed to these bulba re also behind the wiper and head light switch. remove the kick panel and look for any white clips with a red, and a black wire. there are a good 2 or 3 of these you could probably reach without taking it apart too much. and then you could run your wires along the steering column area, and tuch them away.

i paintsd mine up for about 35 bucks. but that is becuse i used good paint. the dollar can approach would be about 15 bucks. stay away from cheap silver paint, the ones in the ribbed can like the ones you find at dollar store(although the wal-mart version costs less) i have found that w-d 40 will dissolve it and wipe it away, wheras wd-40 acts as a polish for better paints yeah, wd-40 especially on flat/satin surfaces, will act like a wax. spray it on, wipe it down, and then rub it in with paper towels. makes water bead up in the rain, too on glossy surfaces, just wipe it down enough that its not greasy to the touch satin black krylon works good for faded b-pillars between windows, and faded headlight bezels and grilles. adam, i wnt to your site, but the library computer like to freeze, but i noticed that you are the one with the stars on the hood, i have seen pics of it before. i am on the 4th computer in an hour at the library, and if this one freezes too, there are only 2 more!

rgaff wires his tirn lights to his corner lights, them put the turn lenses in the grille, and then put fog lichts in the turn holes

my 83 gl had no clutch fan had 2 electrics. but it did have AC. it also had the 2-core radiator.

go with simple trouble shppting procedures. like check for fuel, then spark. and battery voltage. first of all get it outof the shop before you have a bill, and then get back to the message board ! i'll bet its something stupid like the fuel pump is not working, or at least is not coming on. a simple 2 dollar switch and wire fix if thats the case! get your car and holler back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

so you suppose it could be clogged pcv lines, valve? my buddy's spfi motor was choking oil until the pcv lines were replaced with standard heater hose

has anyone shot up their old finish with a shot of Krylon? spray painting can look good if done properly. i had just completed a full paint job on a gl-10 wagon and here is some technique! masking. the more you take the time to tape up trim, windows, door handles and anything else not being painted, it will look better. overspray on you unpaintes/just painted will really get at you. take your time: let the paint dry before taking off tape an paper. it sux to smudge you las coat because you wanted to de-mask it ansd see what it looks like! flat/satin finish opaints, also metallic or silvery finish paints: I have found that you can burnish your freshly laid paint by taking a dry paper towel and rubbing the dry paint dow, this will take up any "dust"that has settled, and will blend in the spray patterns. on metallic finishes, do the same to "buff" any loose flake that has settled, and then shoot it up with clear coat. fast drying paint will tend to oxidize after a few monthe, but clear coat shpould prevent that. i have found that KRYLON brand holds up the best (after painting some 15 cars or so) krylon black held up through the winter with road salts all over it. when spraying, use a back and forth motion, releasing the spray button between passes. that way the paint doesn glop up on the endsand run. on thicker paints, such as orange, do several light coats to get coverage, instead of thick coats. otherwise it will look like you got coverage in one pass, then there will be a big sag along the side of the surface. use a scotch brite pad to scuff down old paint and hit it up with primer. you can use cheaper primers, its the quality of the color paint that matters. use steel wool or a paper towel to buff the primer. after painting a section, take a damp rag and wipe off any dust that settled on the next surface to be painted krylon makes a FUSION brand that polymerizes with plastic finishes, would be good for side molding trim and plastic bumpers! who has painted a car and what were your results? pictures? brush painting?(rustoleum white and satin black on the lower portion of my ride!

the driveshaft i butly was laid out next to a 2pc, with the yokes ans u joints oriented the same way. but i thik it all came to 61 inches. i am mostly sure 61 inches but we might want to have a "recall" on that to be certain. mine went onto a wagon..................

key from an 88 spfi 2wd sedan fits in the 87 rx, door and ign. took it for a quick spin when no one was lookin' but thats ok since money had beep put down to buy it!

you could use a regulare ea82, as far as pulleys being in the same place, but the turbo's has a fatter crank pulley with built in damper

the yellow wires ashould be on the - terminal, and black wire with white stripe, and anything with a red contact will be on the + terminal of the coil

an ea82 spfi y pipe would be really nice. have to plug the 02 sendoe hole, (or just use a dead o2 sensor) it would still fit your rear half of the exhaust system, and match the exhaust mount on the tranny

is the car loud or just loud inside? lengthening the pipe to the back near the axle will make a world of difference on inside exhaust noise. fatter after-muffler pipes will help tone things doen

i t0wed a 2 axle trailer with a dead soob and no brakes! tow dolly with a soob. both with ea81 power 2wd 5spd, used 4th gear a lot. i tore a hitch off a wagon, bolts to the floor and the bumper. towing a small boat should be no problem. actually, its the # of axles you are towing is what will drag you down. tow another soob with a rope with no problems too

rguyver put a turbo plenum on an spfi fitted to an ea81. i made a mock up, i got the turbo and pipe to fit the motor, the manifold on the motor, but connecting the turbo plenum to the spfi intake will need some clever mixing and matching of parts. something about saab parts will fit, or maybe chopping up existing subaru parts, if you put some stuff on sideways or backwards, it seems like it would want to fit. one other thing. obviously you should know that you will have top modify the spfi distributor to fit the ea81. you will have to grind away at the distributor housing and cut off a tab to fit around the power steering(ea82 if you use it) mount. the little dist mounting piece(the one that fits around the hole) can be turned upside down, and the distributor has to be mouned 180 degrees backwards, but have the rotor oriented correctly, so the vacuum clears the water neck/thermostat housing on the spfi manifold. that will work if you connect all the plug wires 180 from their respective terminals, so the rotor is in the same relation to the plug wires like they should be. the egr valve was removed to allow the use of the ea82 pitch bar mount(on my mock-up) you might be able to get away eith the egr with the ea81 pitch bar mount, but consider possible interference are you putting spfi in an ea81 car, or an ea81 motor in an spfi ea82 car?

what about a smaller pilley so the alt spins faster? as mlong as it doesnt spin too fast at higher rpm

jiggle the wheel if it is hung up on the "lock" position

yeah, the spfi will bolt up. i think the egr will need to be removed, and if you use the ea81 power steering, some of the bracket will need ground away. use the ea82- water pipe along the top of the motor

my motor was originally in front of a 2wd 5 spd. that explains my grinding. so if yours was automatic, you wont have that issue. (just like an ea81T will fit an ea82 flywheel without grinding) before you put it tohether. use the torque converter from you ea82 trans, since you have to put it on the tranny before you bolt the enginde you can tighten the flexxplate to torque converter bolts through the timing window. an off-set 12mm wrench works very well (auto-zone "great neck" 12-14mm offset combo wrench)

can you run lp gas for a turbo?

on my sedan i loosened the motor mount bolts from the motor, so the mounts would jiggle. then i lined them up with the holes on the crossmembeer, and then lowered the motor. you can tighen teh bolts back up, you can get to them from unerneath(driver side), and on top(passenger) the ea82 pitch bar mount will swap over. also the one bellhousing bolt from the ea81 bellhousing is slightly longer than the ea82 bolts, but thats ok you can use the ea82 water pump to match the 88's radiator and hose, but you will need to make a bracket to mount it to. but the water pump pulley will be offset. you can but washers or the fan nuts behind it, and go fanless, it will line it up with the crank. you can get the ea82 alternator/ac bracket to fit in there, but the alt will be offset, and you would need the ac-less style pulley for ea82. the 88 y pipw will bolt up to the 1600

turn down the heater fan or turn off the headlights when it is idling.. check for voltage, do an amps draw test when the car is off, then whenits on. kowing a specific reading, you will determine if there is a short or a parasitic draw on various circuits

there is a narrow vacuum hose coming from the passenger firewall. it plugs into the plastic T from the manifold and transmission. does your defrost work. this is what controls the vent selectors. the body end will go to a small plastic reducer on a fatter hose off the strut tower