MilesFox

after pulling a cam cover on my ride last night, the ribs i mentioned should be like this: SUBARU ---------- . ______ where the word SUBARU should be above the 2 ribs. hope i didn't throw you off, but you got it started anyway!

when i put a 4wd tank in the trashwagon, it was about 3 inches shorter (front to back) than the original, so i had to make a mount to tie it in to the wagon's bolt holes. and it came out of another wagon

i used the ea82 torque converter, ther motor came from a MT supposedly 2wd 5spd between ea81 and ea82 are the same. i dont know about the torque converters though. you could test fit, and compare pump shafts. i do know that the 4wd torque converters are different than the 2wd's. hopefully the torque converters will match up, the only difference they might have is how they fit in one bellhousing or the other. either way you might go, or modifying is the only way, the mod is relatively somple, and shouldnt compromise structural integrity, if you grind, fit grind, fit, and only grind away what's necessary. i suggest removing the bellhousing from the back of the motor to mod it. once you do that and try to fit things, you will see what i mean, its pretty mich a step up from a flywheel mod for ea82 trannies. the spacer between the crank and the flexplate is to keep the flexplate from rubbing against the back of the motor. everything will bolt up the same, the width of the spacer wont throw it out of fitment spacs

i did the 6-lug chevy rim drill out. if you can ever make it to a Subaru Alliance meet you can see them on the RX! anyway, that is one example..................

man, why cant they have these things around here (indiana) the best you can find here is some v8 circle track...not my bag!

check to see if all the drain plugs are in place. you can see them from under the car, about 20mm wide, round rubber plugs.

the timing belt doesnt have to do with valve clatter, but since you will have the front apart, moght as well take off the cam housings and clean up ypour lifters while you're there!

yeah, i found out this trick last weekend when putting an spfi motor with a carb down into a turbo wagon. required fuel pump swaps and such, but i got it to work. anything i tell to do is from my own two dirty hands and however it wirks for me. from timing belts to axles, to 2-door wagons!

there is a new guy on the board in white cload, not too far from grand rapids. biged wa s his name with an 86 brat. see what you can do. i know you just got home, so you need to do some cathing up with your end first!

as far as i know the mounts between cars/trannies should be the same. if the torque converter fits from one to the other, do that. if not, the ea81 bellhousing will have to be modified to acommodate the ea82 flex plate. you will have to grind awat the bottom corners, and some of the meat off the bottom that the studs go through, but not enough to waer through. if you have both flexplates, use the spacer off the other one befroe the flexplate, and then the other spacer after that crank -------- spacer _____________ flexplate --------- spacer torque converter this is how i got an ea81 engine to fit against the 2wd auto trans of an ea82 car. hope that answers ya, it worked for me, and i am the only one to do it as far as i know..........................

you will have to remove all the plastig to get the oil pump off. when tightening oil, water pump bolts, be careful. once the bolt feels tight ITS TIGHT, dont over torque them , you can strip the alumonum threads. but as ;long as youre not he-man on the wrench thats nothing to worrt about. \ a 7/8 socket or offset (bent ) wrench will fit on the crank pulley. if its a 5 spd put it in 5th gear with the parking brake on, if its an auto, wedce a screwdriver between the flexplate and torque converter thru the timing window. before removing the belts, loosen the 12mm bolts on the tensioner pulleys, move them out of the way as far a s possible(spring loaded) and tighten them back down. this will make belt install much easier when installing belts, get the marks lined up and slip the belts on. now you dont need a special tool here, do like this: once the belt is on, grab the cam sprocket by chand and turn it so the top side of the belt, the one straight off the crank, tightens up, doesnt take much effort. after that, release the tensioner pulley and you are set!

pop the distributor cap and see if the rotor turns. maybe the starter went out in a vain attempt to start the car just after it quit (cranking on it for too long)

looks like youre real close to grand rapids. i believe Noah 88 dl lives there, he is back from seattle area. happy subaru!

i am running a stripped carb off an 87 on an spfi block. she will stall out right after starup, but if i let her warm up for a minute, she idles, and idles as long as she runs. starting is the only trouble since you may disable the choke or whatever, but she should run the same as normal. mine runs without problem, but i am getting a fuel starvation from a fuel pump swap i need to figure out yet (carb on spfi block in turbo car) there is a vacuum manifold that can be unbolted from the intake manifold itself, but you would have to remove the intake from the motor. if you want to strip it down, and depending on your mechanical ability, i would recomment removing the whole intake. keep in mind to not let the carb get turned upside-down, as the float my stick open.

here is what i have found with my experiences with the ea82: the keyway on the crank snout is in line with the 3 marks on the flywheel use the keyway to do the belts, driver side first, with the dot up. the haynes book says to rotate the crank 360 deg, so the dot is down, and install the passenger side dot up. what that does is release the bind off the pass. side cam. you can skip that procedure, after lining up the driver side cam dot up, turn the passenger cam dot down. but you will feel the tension of valve springs on the cam, it will have a "balance point", where the cam may want to flip one way or the other, but i sometimes do it like that. just make sure you have good grip on the cam pulley(its easier when eliminating the plastic covers to expose cam pulley now that the belts are on, now time for ignition here is a technique i learned just last weekend when installing a distributor while comparing engines for ignition timing, when the motor is at 0 deg TDC, the passenger side cam pulley will have the dot in line with the top rib on the cam cover __________ . SUBARU __________ where the period represents the cam dot. I had trouble determining compression or exhaust stroke, so i liiked at a motor that was still in another car, lined up the marks, and lookes to see where the cam sprocket was. the rotor on the distributor will be just to the right of the screw/clip on the distributor side that faces the firewall try this and report back with your results. it worked for me, should work for no flywheel reference

its all going to depend on how far you drop the rear diff. drop the rear diff as much as needed to clear the tank, and mount the lift according to it, with cv angles in mind. suppose tou lift 3 inches, but drop the diff 4 inches. i read that 4 inches will clear. TrashWagon 5 had 6 inches once, and it had LOTS of room, enough for an auxilliary gas tank inder the seats

there's one in trempeauleau (sp?) just north of onalaska/lacrosse, wisconsin. had to pick an axle on my way out west. the guy may be pricey, but we talked him down to 40 from 60 bucks. he has a few 5spd d/r's, and an xt-6 there's a place in bryan ohio, that has a few soobs, and a hatch, and a wrecked brat. the brat has no motor, but the driveline is there, and the hatch is missing the front axles. most of the ea82's there are 2wd 5spds, one still has a motor, labelled bad,(bet its a timing belt) also a few of us guys Tom in michigan, and jim in ohio, plus myself, collectively have a good stash of parts

what year? is the starter on top or the side? if you have the top mount starter, you can change out the bellhousing on the motor from an ea81, it will bolt up the same, thus allowing the use of 4 and 5spd 4x4 tranny. the later 80's hatch has an ea71 with ea81 style bellhousing, and valves in the head.

so you're back in michigan now? how long you stickin' around? Tomrhere is in Jackson, and he and i are meeting in coldwater on the 31st. maybe you can get in on it. i got some timing cover pieces if you need anyhing. shoot me an email and i'll let you in on my TURBO wagon (TrashWagon 6)

couldnt you trim the bushing down slightly? doing that AND drilling out the bolt hole is how i fit ea82 rear trailing arms in ea81's

to pull the radiator, taking off the clutch fan is recommended. you may have to remove a small metal shroud from the radiator, if it is there. on the shaft of the fan, there is a flat spot that you can get on it with 7/8" wrench, use a 10mm to take off the 4 nuts that hold on the fan. they might be hard to break free, or may want to round off, make sure you have hood tools. an S*K brand box-end wrench fits perfectly. there is a drain plug on the bottom driver side of the radiator. on the front just above the grille, there are 2 12mm bolts that screw into the top of the radiator, take them out. unclup the electric fan wires. you can pull the radiator with the electric fan still there, ore you can remove it first. your choice. as far as the shaking around goes, like going up hills, it may have to do with something electrical. sounds like it could be timing, a knock sensor. its a good place to start for diagnostics.....

are people stealing your ride because it's a SUBARU, or just a car? i park mine outside with the windows down and the key in the ign, but who would want to steal a trashwagon!

Got her runnin' last night! played hell with the timing, wasnt sure if i was on exhaust or compression stroke.... i had to pull the cap off myoss feece's ride to compare. got her to start, ran rough. come to find out thet the spark plugs on the driver's side were shot. i replaced the plugs with oned off the turbo heads. so far i ahve NO MONEY spent in gerring it to run. I had jim wood's spfi motor, the carb off my sedan, alternator pbracketry off zanny dook's, and odd bolts i had laying around. i had myoss feece drive out to a county road. it started to act up, was having fuel issues. i checked out the pump, it turned put the way i had it mounted, it kinked the fuel inlet line. i re-mounted it and went down some tristies. the gl-10 swaybars corner excellently, the power steering works good, and the pushbutton 4wd works. although single range, and 3.700 gears, it is very convenient to drive, swithching in and out of 4wd on the fly between gravel and paved roads. the taller gearing keeps it in the fatter part of the power curve, and it pulls like the RX, or a 2wd 5 spd. you can get it going without winding it out. the tach on the digital dash reads the rpm still, but i am going to put a mechanical water and oil gauge, since the connections for those are part of the mpfi harness. i need to re-route the vacuum lines for the heater and cruese control, since the guy who puled the motor cut them off. the clutch was questionable when i put it together, the pressure plate was glazed and had heat marks. she slipped a little, but it seems to grab a little better with a few miles behind her. it will last enough until i get a new clutch and the turbo motor put back together. the rear brake line leaks, some of it has been replaced before me, but the right rear leaks just above the fuel pump. the brakes work good enough to stop, with the front right locking up on gravel, but i can use the parking brake to help out the brake pedal when needed. provided I have enough money, i am going to invest in a few cans of spray paint to make it a reckognizeable TRASHWAGON 6! josh is offering to buy the car from me, offering to pay for my licence back, but i said i want to finish the car before i let it go. so i will try my best to stay out from behind the wheel, but i couldnt help myself and i drove it across town today. but i know at least when and when not to drive in this town, and only drive to at the beginning of the day, and from at the end of the day. i can holler at a licensed driver if i need to go somewhere. my new job is going to fill my pockets well, so i will have my license before too long. so i have been back home for exactly 2 weeks, i got me a job, and another trashwagon. so now i am better off than before i left! quick recovery just like that!

4 or 6 cyl? the 6 cyl uses a 90 amp aly, it mounts differently than ea82. if its a 4 cyl, it should fit the same, as far as i know

it sure is a gl-10 sunroof, digital dash, plush seats with height adjustment, and trip computer. it has a sedan door with the wrong glass and a chrome door handle, and its missing the little rubber piece on the corner. i got more work done. myoss feece connecte the heater hose while i was at work. he also connected that sucker hose from the egr to the cam cover, but it doesnt go there. i am going to have to find a valve or plug it off. (its plugged off on the trashwagon 5) i got the hitachi style alternator/ac bracket with no ac pump. I had to borrow that from zanny dook's wagon because whoever pulled the turbo motor really didnt know what he was doing(the throttle cable was connected to the bracket that holds the pitch bar to the motor, which was still connected to it) and it was missing the mounting hardware for the bracketry. all thats left to do is put on starter(removed it to tighten pressure plate bolts) ignition wires add oil and filter radiator a fer vacuup lines swap to a carby fuel pump. the coil will still work as it is, and everything else should work(tach, water and oil gauges) i may have to hardwire the fuel pum, if so, to the + coil terminal. i am confident i will have this car running tonight, if i can find some gas!