MilesFox

what kind of rally circuits are out there? do they have anythig in indiana? i gots me a gl-10 turbo (motor needs head gaskets) i wouls love to rally something than some farmer's field and the mc D parking lot! there is an xt6 (if i can reach the owner0 that i want to swap 5-lugs onto my 83 wagon (if i ever see it back from idaho) there needs to be something here for us in the indiana, michigan, and ohio area, because we got soobs!

my 83 wagon had a 6 inch lift. handled like Dook as the home made contraption cheap no-feed walmart welder and scrap metal collapsed in the as end (fixed it), and whole front would want to drive out from under one side of the car or the other. .went baja'nin a field and my steering fell off, involuntary donuts! but it had ea82 suspension (how did that happen?) but anyway, i took the lift out, and the ea82 suspension (gave me about an inch or two of wheel travel, ride height, is that a lift?) gave a decent ride across the vast nation we go to jail in! except it tore up my tires from my eye-ball off center chop and weld tie rod mod ification. you asked.............

disco inferno on the pinto page "TrashWagon 3"! somewhere in the root directory there are lost files if you can get to them........many an artwork thats coolies:slobber: some of it hasnt been touched since '98 and a lot of it pre-dates that. from the biginnings of my on-line presence around '97 i had subarus and trashwagons long before i even knew about the board.

cool. sounds like you got it going on. too bad i'm broke and 2300 miles away! i'm sure you would have a good market out there, since there are enough subarus to put motors in! good luck, austtin

....and ea82 front suspension was supposed to not fit on an 83 wagon. but somehow it does:dead:

maybe i can quit using the hand-me down spare motor that has been in the last 3 cars. too bad they dont have subaru motors just layin' around out in these parts!!! sounds like a good op you can have going. but it would seem you wuould need a little money to start. maybe throw the first together and eat the cost, then profit on it with another core and then you're set!

the car page link works now for thoseof you who missed it the irst time!

come and see the html wonder of what was at one time a derilect web site project. not much there as of yet, but more will be added. i am starting out fresh with new pages about my soobs, and re-doing a lot of my scattered-about-free-web-hosts content the last real attempt had its original copy on the hard dis of a laptop that so-happened to be in my car that i hocked on-the-spot to get my car out of impound! enjoy the dook-tastic wonder of what has yet to come! be sure to check out the"TRASHWAGON" link, although i cant tell you how far into it the links go. you might stumble across something i forgot about! oh yea, heres the link http://www.geocities.com/milesfox/subaru/subaru.htm browsw the root directories and scope what dook-nougats may be floating about http://www.geocities.com/whitetrash104/carframe.html (what was supposed to be Miles Fox's Car Page) let me know what you think, and what you want to see! before too long i want to feature some of yous' rides, details later!!!!!

if you found discs on a brat, it probably came from someone that at least knew something about subarus. just like if you go to the local omni source, you will find my 86 sedan with an ea81 motor!

my cable broke the fat metal nougat that held it in place relative to the pedal box. it broke halfway to jim's in ohio. i had a clamp in the back of the car that i used to clamp the cablee still(sorta like a lanmowe throttle able) it made i all the way out to the subaru show!

i think the cis would be the simplest an dbest suited applicatin. or you could slap a turbo on spfi (in a car that is already spfi) you would have to figure out how to plumb the fittings, and get more fuel. but it has been done

start by checking the fuel filter. it may just be starvation. double chek your ignition timing. i put a motor together and it ran fine, then it started to fall flat at 3000 rpm or if you get enough into the gas. then i used another carb, same thing. ' then i used another carb, sputtered and coughed when i hit the gas. then i turned the distributor and now it runs fine. i would bet that was my problem to begin with something o consider..............

i have never serviced the carrier bearing, but i think its pressed in. but the most economical solution is to go find another driveshaft if it can be had for cheap. however you go, here is what to look for in driveshafts: find out what trans you have. the auto tranny has the front half of the driveshaft shorter than the manuals all auto drivehafts are the same length, whereas all manual driveshafts are the same length, respectively. the rear half of either are the same length, but the carrier bearing is on the front half. you actually need only the front half of the driveshaft for your transmission, the one with the bearing mounted to it. i hope that answers ya, i couldnt tell you where to get a replacement, or how much it costs

does the alternator have a ground tab on the side? if i recall your ride is an 84? if no tab(which is on 82 and before) the VR is internal in the alt. new alternator!

i think the spfi dist will still work, because it works independently from the fuel system. but, when the dist rotates on the spfi, that is what kicks the fuel pump on. when going that approach, you still need to put a carb's fuel pump in, but it can be connected to the spfi's pump wire clip. the carb dist wil work too, but i think you will need one from an 85-86 i tried yo use one from an 87,(ea82 in 82 glf) had no spark, and oh noah(cis subaru) suggested an 85 or 86 dizzy all the conversions i have done used an 86 dizzy right now i have an spfi motor with a carb down in a turbo wagon, and the 86 dizzy works fine connected with its 2 wires to the turbo's coil. if i get bored i can try to use the turbo dizzy and se if it will work without the mpfi intake harness and see if that works! but what i am talking about is a carb doen in a spfi or turbo car if using the spfi block with a carb in a carb car, then you will need the carb disty. if the disty is the one from the car, then it should work. fuel pump swaps need not apply you would probably want to use the carb spec 8deg. btdc. but go ahead and try spfi's 20deg btdc (if it has to do with the compression ratio)

some ea82 might have the rear disc as an option, so look at any soob you may come across as parts the ea82 2wd and 4wd uses the same caliper and rotors, but the hubs are different. you can swap 2wd and 4wd hubs between the same rotor the caliper and mounts from 2wd and 4wd will bolt up to any 2 or 4wd ea81 rear suspension. if you have a hard time finding rear discs, ea82 drum brakes, which are slightly larger, will bolt onto an ea81. keep the drum, shoes, and backing plates from ea82 to do the swap

check yer mail!

i had an 89 dl. no tach or gauges, but you can put those in aftermarket (about 10, 15, qnd 30 bucks for oil, water, and tach) everything body and motor wise is the same as ant 85 thru 94 ea82 soob. fenders and front bumbers are the same between 3-door, sedan, and wagon. the doors will all be the same between sedan and wagon, but the back doors glass is different between sedan and wagon, but the glass is interchangeable(and so is power to manual windoe mechanisms) the rear struts will fit the same between sedan, wagon, and 3-door. it is held on by 2 bolts at the top and one bolt at the bottom. sometimes they are hard to turn, and if so, dont reef on them, because they can break if you go he-man on a super rusty bolt 500 bucks is ok for a soob that runs and drives, and its all there. if the interior is decent, it ptobably wouldnt hurt to replace a rusty door or fender, or a cracked light lens see if you can talk down to somewhere between 300 and 500 bucks. offer 420, the magic number:headbang: !

no not girlfriends (at least me) but more and lots of cheap goodies for subarus!. the money you saved on paint can put shag carpet on your ceiling!!!!!!!!! and the girlies will love that, and especially if the back seat folds down!!

if it does turn out to be a rod knock, any ea81 or ea71 motor will fit under hood, and share a lot of the same components, pick and chose the best of the bunch you can also go with an ea82 motor (85 and up-timing belts) it will bolt up the same to the tranny, and use the flywheel and pressure plate to the ea82 motor, and the clutch disc from the trans. or you can use the fly wheel from the 4spd 4wd/5spd 2wd if you drill the holes out larger. you will have to unbolt the hill holder and move it back an inch or two, and the distributor cap will be close to the master cylinder. i would suggest removing the distributor to get it down in there. this is assuming its a manual if its an auto, just use the existing torque converter and flex plate, but you might have to drill the holes out on it(not sure) you can use an ea82 flexplate if the ea81 torque converter bolts to it there is no hill holder in automatics, and the master cylinder from an automatic will clear the distributor better(for an ea82 motor) but if your ride is an automatic, and you want to swap motors, you might as well throw a manual trans under it! the conversion has been done either way many of times in many of combinationd by many on the board. stick around and you will see!

instead of tearing into the internals of the motor and swapping pistons, you could simply use a short block of a carb or spfi with your turbo heads and cams. at least you will have fresh head gaskets that wont go bad unexpectedly. and fresh gaskets will better survive a mild overheat. the turbo has 7.7:1 compression carbs have 8.5:1 compression and spfi has 9.5:1 compression. wjm has the spfi in his, he hasnt had any reliability issues, and he runs 93 octane gas with advanced timing. a carb motor will up your compression, although more mildly, you can get away with more as far as knocking and pinging, and wont have to be modded as much for reliability

the rust-oleum whit i used was all dried up, with a hard "disc) covering the wet parts. i picked out the disc, and stirred everything up. it worked, painted on thick, but brushing technique will get you coverage. i used 2 coats. it was a little chinky, has paint bits sticing to it. but thats ok for me, since the bottom of the car is most prone to rust, salts, it has a nice thick coat. my car is white below the trim molding. the whole idea of whit is it shows mud the best!

i think only the external modulators are on pre 82 soobs. i got an 83 wagon, it has an ea82 motor from an 86, with the 86's distributor, it shares the same cap and rotor as the one that came on the old motor. it was all plug and play for my application. if you pill the cap and rotor, the is a black piece that stucks up a little, that will be your ignition module. i know what kind of dist to look for, i just dont know what mine is called(nippon, hitachi, what?) the module piece should unplug the starter will have nothing to do with spark, just turning the motor over, thats all.

yes, this would be part of the same circuit. it just has different wires and clips locations depending where the bulbs are! any one of these clips would work, chose the one thats most accessible or closest to your new gauge

from what i have seen it is more common for the oil pump seal to leak than the front cam seal. i fixed my oil pump seal only and it stopped a world of leakiness!