MilesFox

altough you will use a fuse for each circuit, use a good 30 amp fuse near the battery, so if the fat wire grounds out on the firewall, it will keep ut from burning up. a fuse like that for stereo amplifiers would be perfect, and the cable it used too

i would personally mount the terminal strip somewhere inside the car, that way i only have one fat wire coming in thru the firewall. i like to run wires right on thru with the speedometer cable thru its grommet. run a wire the same fatness as the one off the alternator. if you run a pair of big lights, either use a metal switch, or use a relay. i have found that the plastic lighted toggles will melt when the terminals get hot (55 and 100w lights) my stereo is connected to the fuse panel to the acc, but it has its own fuse inline. if you look around you will find a good place for a terminal strip, i would say somewhere near the passenger kick panel. you could bring your wire up thru one of the ac grommets since the battery is over on that side (i keep forgetting my battery is on the other side when trying to think of mine as an example)

get that thing legal and drive it all over! so how did that offer go on the sedan? it would make a good weekend body project, bondo and spray paint to fix the wheel arches before they go bad. i might have a governor shaft, if i can get ti, but it was supposed to go on zanny dook's maybe you can borrow the one of the xt, or the one of that 2wd auto if it will fot on a 4wd

how about chopping the roof straight across the top right where the top of the door window meets the pillar and roof. cut along the body crease, the one 2 inches below the window, down the side of the car and even with the taillights. do the same to a parts sedan now put the sedan roof on what's missing on the wagon, put the sedan rear decklid and glass on the wagon. hwve it where it seals up against the top of the back seats, use the bottom portion of the tailgate as the gate for a truck bed. now you have a pass-thru, but the glass doesnt come out, just like the real thing! i also have this idea to make a brat out of a wagon using a 3-door(ea82's)

i have this idea to make a baja out of an ea82 wagon and the rear c-pillar of a sedan. it would be pimp, because its still an ea82!

if you were to seal up the speakers against the lid, it would act like a regular speaker box. the piece of wood being sealed off wouldnt matter as long as the whole lid is sealed off. there is a golden ratio when it comes to speaker enclosure size, also mentioned in the radio shack book. you might as well go get the radio shack book, it goes a lot into the principles of speaker dynamics, and knowing a little will hwlp you to get your setup to sound better than the typical "big amp and big speakers but doesnt sound good" having a good sounding stereo is more about how your setup is rather than how big your components are. the book also tells about series and parallel circuits, ohm ratings, and bridging the amp. its good knowledge worth knowing when you go to set up a stereo system! let me know it it sopunds any better maybe adding a tube bass port somewhere between the amp and speakers (you could probably remove the wood if you have enough dynamat for the whole enclosure) you will get better sound by allowing the box to "breathe" the more air you can move around the better it will sound

good for while driving, too!

well, next time i go out west i would consider US route 2, rather than the interstate 90/94. that would take me more northward and probably closer to ya. how far is us 2?

suppose you could mount a strAIGHT AXLE TO THE EXISTING SOOB REAR TRAILING ARM (MOUNTS FABRICATED, of course) so it would be sort of like a 5-link rear suspension?

whatever your gauge reads at 2500 rpm will be your pressure to determine by. if it goes to 15 or 20 at idle, sounds ok to me. i have seen 45psi readings slowlt tricle down to almost 0 at idle. at least you have pressure at idle. ma want to do the pump seal as precautionary, but the pump sounds like its ok to me. i personally wouldnt worry about it

well, its good that you got it done right, because its rare that i ever see a soob that still has rockers! at least now you know they will still be there later down the road! good luck with it

funny thing, because i swapped a carb on jims brat and it still fell flat. i turned the distributor up and it helped, but would not get over 4000 rpm's. you said you get spark. you didn't take the distributor out did you? others on the board have experienced a "pig tail" wire coming loose in the distributor, but if that was the case, you wouldnt have spark. maybe the spark plugs crapped out. i put a motor together, idled rough, whenever i set the timing to spec it wouldnt run. turns out it had 2 bad plugs. yank them out and take a look. sometmes a fould plug will still spark, although weekly. if the spark looks yellow, it's bad. a normal plug condition the insulator should be a nice tan color, that of a toasted marshmallow

the act of throwing it away!

just so long as their lot dont flood out and total your car (again) unless you are tired of your car already! at least its not a new tracker!!!

well, at least you can put subaru wheels on an atv in hopes that you can register it as a motorcycle (dot approved tires, turn lights, brake light, speedometer)

if you had 3 bones. i would rather have a pack of cigarettes! around here you go to the parts counter and tell them you need parts for an 84 4x4 subaru, they are like "it's not listed, what kind of truck was that?" hell, you have to order away for intake gaskets! its not worth the hassle for me in my opinion, they wouldnt have it in stock but that's here in redneck central "one of those foreign jobbers"

on the ea82 you will see the holes stamped out on the outer metal, but they are solid on the next layer. you have to drill all the way through(ours was a sedan, thru the trunk) they will come out just at the edge of the inner fender plastic where it meets the carpet. its opssible to just drill the first layer, and put a captive nut behind it through the hole where the bumper mounts fit into(on a wagon) if you go thru the floor, use a fat washer, as it will want to pull thru as you torque it down. i would suggest using the nuts with the nylon insert so it will stay tight without a lot of torque

rust is nothing to worry about until you go to sand it off and a big cunk of whatever was the panel falls through! surface rust is child's play. did you replace the rocker panel because it was surface rust, or just not there to begin with!?!@?!?!?!?!

you can use the handle end on a pair of pliers, or even the bite end, the pliers in the oem subaru tool kit works perfecty for thay. just try not to booger the surface, and be careful of the seal. if its an old crusty caliper, you can use a channel lock plier to get the first or second turn, as it will free up as you turn it make sure the parking brake is off when you bleed the caliper if its rear disc, then you dint need to turn the piston, just push it in, because there is no parking brake mechanism on the rear the parking brake mechanism on the front is why the pistons turn in rather than push in

i think that that would be a normal desighn, keeps you from throwing it in first accidentally and redlining it inadvertently. if shifting into first while rolling, it would help to rev it up a little to match rpm

also when checking the timing, check the vacuum advance and see if it holds. remember to disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the line when using the timing lite to set the distributor. after you get that done, hook up the vacuum advance, and rev it up, and see if the timing mark moves around thru rpms

pulled a camaro out of an alley 50 feet in foot deep snow with a turbo automatic single range and a leaky tranny seal. they dooked themselves the fact that i pulled them out, and dooke themselves some more seeong a 50 foot trail of red in the snow!!!:santa:

cool! me likey likey! its like the direct opposite of the "Roof of Boom" the floor of boom? anyway, i like the idea of having speakers and such without using up your wagons cargo versatility. mine was on the roof, an 83, doesnt have the smugglers box.... yeah, drill holes for sound, but so nothing will poke thru and dameage the spaeker. pack some fiberglass insulation in the box around the spaekers, it will give more "mass" to vibrat and give deeper bass. that one is mentioned in radio shack's "building speaker systems" book that way the bass is shaking things up, will help make up for sound coming directly out of little holes. drill the holes out rather large, at leadst 1/2 inch to 3/4, close together, it will still act like a flat floor for strenght use one of those flat spade type drill bits for cheap, as any large bit will be expensive an only fit in a drill press

hey brian, you neet to move out of that nazi strict state you live in. rich neighbors in suv's dont like to hear angle grinders going off in the middle of the night, or revving of open ports. (sorry to stereotype) i did in now way take you "bag" comment the wring way! i just though i would put my 2 cents of experience in. i was fortunate to have my bos's building to use, but a driveway with an extension cord works just as good! either way i drove my car all over, so my point is it was driveable regardless. just a matter of how bad a heap you can keep under control on the road! towing trailers with notheing but the parking brake while passing the sheriff in a half painted dog-tracking under-rated for a 2 axle trailer is not the best of ideas. but it has been done!!!!!! hey snowstormer, i'll stop by when i get my car back from idaho(and i will have a valid license this time) keep an eye out for the wrench I left behind, and dont let that junkyard rip you off!

atv big boofy tires are rated for lower psi. hope they dont pop the beads with the weight of a soob. but try it out, you may never know! but the atv tires are not radial, are not dot approved, and are illegal and probably unsafe for paved road usage, but they will be a lot of fun off road!!!