MilesFox

some spekers are designed to be spring suspended, or air suspended. A spring suspended speaker will have a rigid accordian shape rim around the cone to the frame. these speakers are for an open application like a car door or dashboard. the air suspended variety are designed to be in an enclosure, using the compression of air to bounce the cone on pressure wave. these are for enclosures such as bandpass boxes and such you could get away with ow it is for the spewakers to work enough to hear, but making a port (about 2 in diameter) will get the air to move around. all of this is in the radio shack book previously mentioned

you should have one front wheel and one rear wheel spinning at any one time. there is a plug in for the switch just under the center console \ does the 4wd light come on?

i'll bet you would know more than the mechanic about soobs, but you wouldnt realize it till you got your hands dirty! if its an ea81, that would be real easy, no timing belts or annoying plastic covers to worry about. you can do a head gasket for under 50 bucks, and that includes intake, exhaust seals, and oil. if you got the tools then do it. you gotta take the intake off, so the carb caould be serviced before it goes back on. i personally would pull the motor out, but i would change both head gaskets at the same time.

suppose you could use an electric leaf blower, and a higher amp ca converter(like the ones that could handle a microwave such as for an rv) ans a good alternator. it could be turned on and off witha switch, but tou would have to enrichen the fuel to keep it from running lean and getting hot. suppose you could wire up some sort of injector, as ling as you had enough psi behind the whole fuel system. a wastegate could be fashioned ffom some sort of spring valve, the boost could be controlled with a potentiometer. just some ideas.....

how about a 5spd in a 2wd? the 16 inch chevy rims can be drilled out, you will want to use the 21mm lug nut with m12 1.25 thread, and 60 deg. seat. i used a set of truck rims and put 2o5/55 camaro tires on the rims, not much bigger around (made 3.90 drive like 3.70). you will have to grind away at the middle hole to fit the subaru hub. i have seen a set of 15's for a 6 lug, those would offer better selection for tires you could send just the 4wd shifter to jerry, i am sure he can make you an adapter, because tyhe shifter mechanism off the 5spd is different than the 4spd's the 5 spd shifter assy fits onto an arm that bolts to the tranny, the shifter and 4wdd are both like this in one unit. everything for a rear suspension can be left the same, but parts off an (ea82), the car the tranny came from, can be converted over for bigger brakes. you will need the driveshft from the 5 spd you might have to modify the shifter hole and tunnel to fit it, but mine went into a 2wd. general disorder put a 4spd in a 2wd, and one method i suggested that he made work was to stack washers between the body and the trans crossmember to drop the tranny down just enough to clear the trans tunnel. you could have jerry make your 4wd handle, so it fits and appears stock for that car.

busted axle? i would have replaced the rear trailing arm on that side, if not just the rim to begin with. the rest would have been ok

did it actually quit running or did the ECS light come on again?

i wish..its been a little while:banana: i just read the svx thread, so i will try the awd disable fuse and see if that does anything?

thenoise came back after the tires were aired up. the car had sat for a few months. but it has always made the noise since we fixed the front tranny seal. so how exactly is the center diff in these models? the noise will come and go, going usually if the car is being driven more. of course the center diff is working, because it can pull some mean donuts!!!

the legacy ft4wd auto 2.2 makes an awful moaning noise 25-60mph. it is most prominent while deceleration. i aired up the back tires, being a little squatty. drove the car and the noise went away. drove the car again and it came back. josh says the noise goes away in neutral. the noise sounds like it is coming from the middle to the rear. i checked out the brakes and the wheel play, everything was tight, so its not a bearing issue. is the center diff open or lsd? and would the noise be diff related if it were lsd? either that or it has to do with the driveshaft. i want to get under the car, but i need to find another jackstand!

i guess it comes down to personal preference. but i think that a stick is best in snow. thats because you have more control of the power to the wheels. sometimes you want to break an wheel free to maneuver a turn, such as kicking the rump roast end out when the car wants to understeer off a curve. my 2 cents i never ran my pinto off the road in the snow, and being a stick let me kixk the rump roast out whenever necessary. sometimes wheelspin is what will get you through. and at least with a stick, you have full control of your wheelspin, if thats what you want. autol blow!

i got the 170 from napa. thanx for the info

it looks like the dealer is just trying to catch up on the lack of service the last owner neglected. if all is fixed now, then the car will last forever. the dealer is doing things in the right order. if you got to tear the front apart for the timing bely, might as well do the water pup, oil seals and such, since you got to tear it down the same if you did it later. get to know you soobs now, you will like them, and then you will look differently at GM. take my word on it!

you can get the betterheads off a later model hatch, and use them on the ea71 in an older brat. that will give you ea81 valves. you can also swap an ea81 bellhousing for a 5spd if your existing motor has the starter dead on top. if the starter is on the side then a 5spd will already fit

its gott suck out from somewhere! that is why it is called PVC Positive Crankcase Ventilation. you want to have a lower pressure behind the pistons, heeps thinds moving. otherwise all the blowby will buld up and slow things down. anyway, that is how it is designed to work. but most likely mainly it goes back into the intake for emissions reasons. so i guess you are good to go either way, the crankcase will still vent as long as blowby has a way out

ok, i am going to end this right now. first off, these are subarus. subaru designed this little solenoid that keeps the drop in intake pressure from slowing up the turbo between shifts. and i will tell you what, i put a 5spd in my 90 hp ea81 turbo to replace the rump roast-o-matic. i dumped the clutch ans spumn all four tires in 4wd hi in 2nd gear! and thats only because i thought it was in 1st low! and the automatic wouldnt even let the tires break free in mud. you dont see an automatic in the rally car? autos in subarus were an afterthought. my buddy had a 2.5 rs(non turbo) and the auto really wouldnt let its rpms do their things. its like subaru put automatica in as an after thought, so that people who coulndt drive a stick would actually buy one! NUFF SAID!

the crack is very slight and barely a cm long. and its at the bottom where the flange meets the mating surface. will that be ok? its too late because i already have the heads on and the motor mostly put together. it didnt look too bad to me, i was more concerned with the ones between the valves......

girlfriend? what you saying? vixen would be more appropriate! anyway.............................its an 87 gl-10 turbo TrashWagon6. thats ea82t in soob speak i gots a single row radiator, and clutch fan for now. there was no radiator in the car when i got it. would 160 be too cold for winter? i could run it anyway, as long as i dont have problems. i like to gets on it, and i know a soob will get hot driving in snow. condensation in oil wont bother me, it will probably evaporate, at least its not coolant!

the 3500 rpm is where the soob motor is most happy. its right smack in the middle of the power band. if you were cruising a taller gear at a lower rpm, you might find your foot in the gas more to keep it moving. 3500 rpms is the most efficient rpm, the most power with least throttle, from my experiences. even crawling around off road in low gar at 5 mph, i t does best at 3000-3500 rpms, all the way up to 4500

if the receiving car is an 86, use the 86 diustributor. the 85 and 86 distributors will work in any car with any coil setup, but the 87 wont. that is what Noah told me when we couldnt get the 8a82 in the 82 glf to run. i always make it a rule to use the distributor that is original to the car itself, that is, if you are using the same induction method that is original to the car. an example of the 86 dist uses: i got an ea82 in my 83 wagon with an 86 disty, just 2 wires to the coil. i got an 87 gl-10 that had turbo, but i got an spfi block with a carb, and of course, the 86 disty. the coil has all the atatchmets for the turbo's disty, but i left that all there and connected the 86 disty's 2 wores to the coil, and it works like its supposed to!

the haynes manual will say the outer half of the axle is non serviceable. i couldnt get it apart. the way tom describe you will have to break it to get it apart! but if its just an axle stub to hold a wheel on, whats the hurt in that?

i looked at an xt6 window, it has a cable that moves the window up and down. the cable sheath is retained by white plastic clips, and a little clip rides up and down on the exposed part of the cable, and is connected to the bottom of the window frame. there is a spring that is under tension when the window is down, and that helps the cable take the window up. suppose the spring is not working, broke, disconnected? pop the door panel off and have a look-see. if you want to keep the plastic moisture barrier intact, undo the clips that hold the doorhandle to the rod mechanisms, so you dont have to rip yout plastic af you yake it completely off

if the threads are mangeld, or the axle nut is loose, the rotor will rub against the caliper bracket. it will go away when turning one direction, or using the brake. does the noise go away ehen using the brake?

oops, i thought the thread said "Changed brake fluid" if it is brake fluid related, maybe the ambience of the brake fluid light is lighting up the rest. take your ride to auto zone and get a free charging test, of find a volt meter, the alt should be putting out a good 14 volts, 13 is too low, 15 is too much. that will single out voltage regulators test your voltage at above idle if autozone finds its a bad voltage regulator and tries to sell you one, just say "Thank You, i'll go get a junkyard alt off any 83-84 soob(excluding legacy, impreza). cheaper that way.

the orange one must be the little skinny flosser i mentioned. it should go to a reducer that connects it to a fatter hose. the spfi should have it, unless the reducer is missing. did it come off with the spfi motor? does your heater select between floor, vent and defrost? if that is the line i am talking about, you should get away with connecting it to any vacuum source, as long as its not on the boost side of things.......... so what about the heater selector? if the yellow hoses are coming off the turbo, loop them into eachother, since there will be nothing on the spfi for them to go to pretty much should go from the turbo outlet to the wastegate, 2 inches of hose will do it (that is how i seen it on a stock 86 turbo xt, like it was supposed to be)