MilesFox

make sure tou read the haynes book text very well, because gong by the pictures alone will throw you off, happens to a few people,

i was told an ea82 wont fit in a gen1, because the engine bay is too narrow. but that was what i was TOLD, not something i found out myself

actually, you can have an odd size tire on one or the other axle, as long as the other tire is the same size as at least one tire on the other axle. , because of the open front and rear diffs. its having 2 of the same size on one axle that is a different size of both tires on the other axle, that is what will bind up the center diff. there is a 15a fuse for the 5spd single range in the gl-10, but 4wd button works with it IN

if you hold the door handle up while closing the door, it will remain locked, if not, it unlocks. its an anti lockout feature commonly found on many japanese cars for the era. try it out!

they started the ones IN the hood in 88, on a gl sedan i have seen tge one and only 90 loyale i have seen didnt have as much body trim as usual on gl, and it had a single range 5spd on an spfi

did you pull the distributor? if so, you need to put it at #1 with the toming marks at 0deg BTDC, not the 3 marks. the driver side cam will be at 12:00, rotate the crank 360, it will be at 6:00. then put the passenger side at 12:00. and there you go. there is a notch in the plastic timing cover, which is inline with the cam cover seal. chack and make sure you are not a tooth off.

any MT swap is the same amount of work. all the shifter mechanism can stay connected to the tranny. the only difference between a d/r and a single range is the shifter cover plate. the d/r will have the hole for the lever, and will still bolt up to the body like its supposed to. just behind the shifter hole, on the underside, is a stud that the shifter mound goes to on the automatic's body. you can take the shifter linkage off the tranny in one oiece if you wish, it s fine either way. the only thing you will have to do thats not already there is bypass the neutrak safety switch(you can jump a wire on the auto shifter's wiring plug- in, or just make a pushbutton starter swit) you will have to re-wire the my for the reverse light, and there will be nothing for the 4wd light indicator to plug in(for the lo on the 4wd lever) but all the physical fitment of everything will fit as if the car was already an MT! take it from me, i put a 4wd5spd in a 2wd ea81, put one in a 4wd auto ea82 sedan, and converted a 2wd auto sedan to 4wd 5spd! so i know what's involved in any possible 5spd/dr conversion, as well as a good number of board members. if you tackle this on, and run into a problem, just ask the board, because enough of us have done this in a number of our own ways, so at least one of us will have the answer to your specific method of going at it!

josh, who has a 3-door rx, would rather have a sedan rx any day! at least i know of someone who would covetm YOUR ride! he was considering taking all the rx goodies and putting them in a gl sedan! but now Myoss Feece will be owning the rx here in the next day or 2, the deal being closed! dont let the rx go for nothin'!!!

yo, once i get my traswagon back i will see about making an east coast meet. moosens, your invite still stands with me dennis, no hard feelings over the "soap opera" i recognise your good intent to begin with-its over me now and then TrashWagon 5 will be Coast-To-Coast! at leas if you guys met me in person, you will know who i am for real!

some day i will be out that way to get my soob fom Bonners Ferry Idaho. suppose i could catch one of you given i make good time!

its like when someone goes for a ride in your rig, and they somewhat dismiss it, and couldnt even comprehend all the work that went into it, and say somethig stupid like the paint is faded, and pass it off ad a pos.. somewhat like a buy here pay here lot, its not the mechanical condition of ths car that matters, its how well it looks that will sell. no pody will care if the brakes are grinding or the ecs light is on, as long as they can pimp it to the ladies, thinking they look good in their k-car!

removing the starter will help clear the firewall, too!

if you have exhaust leaks before the turbo, there wont be any exhaust pressure to spin the turbo. use some hi-temp silicone(the orange copper stuff) on the gaskets, even on used ones if they are still intact

keep at it Tom! i know your automotive knowledge is what its gonna take to get her right! Now you are the only one in the Tri-State with a weber! (what are you doing with the old carb, the glf or jims brat could use it!) hollar at me

the only other rx i ever saw in person was a sedan. the 3-door had "full-time 4wd" in blue lettering, and the sedan had it in red lettering.....

pretty much the reason that 90-94 ea82's are called the loyale, is because subaru came out with the legacy in 90, so the ea82's needed a name to distinguish the models. tey wer gl/dl before that, because it was the only model out at the time (besides the brat, and the STD(the previous hatchback design)

when getting your 5spd, get the entire clutch/flywheel, and the flywheel bolts. you will also need the driveshaft and rear diff. being that your car is already 4wd, the drivshaft and diff will fit the same. the clutch pedal box(all 3 pedals in one assembly) will fit the same. i would remove the steering column, since it goes through the bedal box, it comes out with 2 bolts and some electrical connections. there will be a rubber plug covering the hole that is already there for the clutch cable. when getting the pedal assy, disconnect the clutch cable from the tranny end, and leave it connected to the pedal end. grab the grommet from the donor car if possible. the padal assy is held on by 4 studs that come through the firewall from the brake booster assembly, and the top half bolts to the steering column for added support. put the pedals in with the 4 nuts, then the steering column, then the top bolts after that. there is a flat spot on the steering shaft, that the retainer bolt fots across, it will only go on one way, make sure your wheels are straight when doing the steering column. the hole for the inner shifter boot may be a little different, but the outer boot/plate will snap right onto the center console where the at's used to be, all will fit like its supposed to. the only clue to it was an automatic is PRND1 on the instrument cluster! the axles will use a 3/16 punch, dont use a 1/4 inch, or it will get stuck! there is a concave side on the axle to drive the pins out/in from. when doing the diff, drop the mustace bar from the 19mm nuts, and articulate it one way and then the other to slide off each axle. when dong the trans, and assuminf the motor is out, you can pull the tranny one way or the other to slide the axles on one way otr the other. the axles only fit on one way, if its 180 off, the holes wont align exactly. slide the punch through the holes to line them up before driving in the pins. also, if you dont have the clutch center tool, as if using the same clutch if it is still good, you can do the clutch this way: have the starter removed from the tranny. put the clutch disc on the flywheel, then mock up the pressure plate and thread the bolts in finger tight. the isea is its tight enough to hold the clutch disc still, but will be allowed to slide around by hand. that way it woll give enough to find its way onto the tranny shaft. once the motor is almost aginst the trans, wiggle the motor around until the shaft finds its way into the pilot bearing. with the starter still out, and the motor against the tranny, now you can get in there with a 12mm socket to tighten down the 6 pressure plate bolts. now put on the starter, the thru-bolt that goes on the top of the starter holds on the battery ground cable, dont forget that because i always do! a few tips of expertise from This Fox!

all of the axles and driveline will be at the same angles relative to the suspension and drivetrain. the motor, trans, axles and wheels we be to the same proportion, as the body sits up hugher on the same dimensions. tell the boyfriend mechanic to go back to school! (or at least look under a soob) the only thing that will change is the lenght of the brake lines, steering linkage, and maybe the pitch bar, depending on how high you go. if its an spfi, you might have to move the airbox in a little bit, so the plastic ductwork will still fit on there.

http://usmb.net/gallery/albun92/225_55_zr_16 check this out, these are the 16 inch chev rims i drilled out for the trashwagon. i had to ream out the center hole to fit on the soob's hub, being 16's i used 205/55 camaro tires, about the size of a 185 14 wheel... it uses 2 of the rims holes, and 2 of the drilled holes. i would suggest reinforcing the drilled holes by welding a washer to the outside, and countersinking id possible. if not countersinking, use the flat side of the ea82 open lug nut. the holes on the rim are larger than a soob's, and a soob lugnut will want to draw through when torqued down. the soob uses a 19mm nut, i got a set of 21mm nuts from napa. when getting lugnuts, get the 21mm, M12 1.25 thread pitch, and a 60 deg. seat. i got the black ones about $1.25 a piece, comes in a set of 5 from napa. they also have zinc ones too.

this may be on the extreme end, but was the case on the trashwagon... the bolts on the front engine crossmember came loose, the whole side of the crossmember was hanging about an inch from the body, allowing the whole front end to articulate, when getting on the gas, the whole front suspension wouls want to drive out from under the car! check the crossmember and see if it is securelt connected to the framerail, 14mm nuts. also, with my modified struts, the nuts that held the strut cap on were loose, wollowed out a bit, and made things floppy up front. check that too. and one more thing, the strut braces that go from the lower control arm to the swaybay mount. the one side is bolted to the control arm, and the back end goes through a hole with a bushing. this is what stabilizes the lower control arm. check to see if the 17mm nuts are tight, and there is no play in the bushing. hope this helps, in addition to checking the balljoint and axle nuts!

yo, i got my hard drives back. i am going to get them going tonight, and see what i have put together already. i want to strike a deal with you about hosting........

is it a 5spd or a 4spd?

can you "feel the noise" through the brake pedal. there are stories of brakes locking up after a wash, maybe moisture has to do with it, until they "warm up" the best thing to do is have a look-see. a 14mm will get the caliper off, and a 17mm will get the bracket off. you have to ubdo the big axle nut to take the rotor off, but only if you are replacing it or having it turned. really just take off the tire and one 14mm bolt! get some anti-seize compound when going back together, helps keep things free moving

can you "feel the noise" through the brake pedal. there are stories of brakes locking up after a wash, maybe moisture has to do with it, until they "warm up" the best thing to do is have a look-see. a 14mm will get the caliper off, and a 17mm will get the bracket off. you have to ubdo the big axle nut to take the rotor off, but only if you are replacing it or having it turned. really just take off the tire and one 14mm bolt!

rusty cars in california? i dont believe it. you aint seen rust till you come to the midwest! (i'm talkin about no rocker panels, holes in the floor, and doors you can stick your hand up into to unlock them!