MilesFox

i will undo the motor mounts an d jack up the motor on the oil pan, it will get the studs up high enough so the tranny doesnt run into the front crossmember before the bellhousings meet. and as far as drain pans go, regardless of being environmentally conscious, i always drain into a pan, because, i myself prefer not to lay in all that mess!

i took bits and pieces of a turbo inlet and spfi fittings to make ductwork so i could mount the MAF above the turbo plenum, mounted to the little 10mm screw. i cut out the MAF mount d=from the airbox and welded it to a bracket, took a piece of exhaust pipe and stretched it out to fit on one of thos cone filters, had to cut a hole in the hood. but now i have a big ol cone filter that sticks out like BLAM! from the hood. i had a piece of metal that just so happens to conveniently bent to be the same circumfrence as the filter, and goes bact and flattens out with the hood. looks like a jet engine. i can make a drain tube on the back side of the filter, because the top half of it is exposed. it rained today, the motor did not choke... the scoop goes back far enought that i could cut out a hole for one of those xt turbo shrouds.......... the car makes lovely turbo sounds between shifts, now only if the car ran right......................

I got my 87 gl-10 turbo motor installed and hooked up. now for all of you who remembers my cracked head post, they hold about 110 psi, the car will start idle and run! but sometimes it wont start for nothing. i got this "custom intake" using pieces of turbo and spfi piping, with the MAF above the turbo plenum and a big ol cone filter like "BLAM!" sticking out of the hood with a hood scoop behind it, looks like a JET ENGINE on the hood! anyway, i taped upt he fitting with better tape, starts a little easier. but halfway thru the rpm range it acts like its not getting fuel, it makes cackling sounds at the exhaust. when driving, you can put the gas in a little, shift way soon, and it will pull, but if you get the rpm u, or open the throttle enough, she loses power right away. i had an spfi fuel pump on there to begin with, but now i have a turbo pump. the pumps were so rusty that they leaked, i tried to weld one, still leaked, so i tore the damper off of it and connected the hose directly to the fitting. the distributor appears to be in the right spot, lined up with 0deg and #1, and you can see the "bare spot" where the bolt goes is lined up. timeing belts are in line, i know this because they were off when the motor went in the car. i connected the wastegate and boost lines up to where they go, but htat dont make a difference. it seems that its intermittents, the car will pull, and then crap out, but hasnt ran like it is supposed to yet. it seems to start and run better when cold, its next to impossible to start when warm, you will crank and crank, the motor sounds like it s running until you let of the starter, or it will rev up to 2000 rpm than cut out, and if it sounds like its firing, it stops when you put the gas down? who has any ideas? I got a spare intake that i was considering swapping, for fuel pressure regulator and throttle body's sake.......

josh has an 03 legacy, and if he gets out of the car while its running, its in neutral with the parking brake. when i drive an uato i will leave it in neutral at a long red light or the drive thru its less shifting to gto from d to n than it id to go from d to n to r to p!

forget the trailer and get a tow rope or chain, and another soob to pull it!

i had my trashwagon4 deemed unsafe by the Chief of Pilice himself. but it doesnt help causing a scene by being stuck on top the plow's sno pile in the public library parking lot, with no bumpers, tailgate, exhaust, or seat belts!

the rx will sometimes act like its misfiring at 1500 or so, then just kick in all of a sudden with the gas pedal in the same spot. i just got my turbo motor going in the gl-10 wafon, it wont want to rev past 3000-4000 rpm, kicks and bucks like a mule, you open it up more and then it rpm goes down, making cackling sounds at the exhaust. its hard to start, too it started up better this morning, but whatever it is it seems to be fuel related

its a suzuki! a geo metro motor. subaru designed the driveline and aquired the marketing rights to sell it as a subru

i use a razor to clean my heads. there is "pits" as de4scribed from the graphite from the last gasket. its nohing to worry about as long as there are no chunks sticking around. same goes for the engine surface too. no sealant, torque to spec

with an experienced hand, an entire head gasket job and reseal can be done in a day. an engine swap in a matter of a couple hours, if that.

if you are using ea82 struts, you will need to modify the ea81 strut cap to fit them. ir try getting ea82 knuckles to fit on the ea81 strut? or do the whole ea82 lower control arm/axle/knuckle/strut swap, using xt 5lug and swaybar!

if going carb, use an spfi motor for more compression. manifolds all swap the same, ea81, ea82, and spfi

suppose the distributor itself is bad. there are stories of a wire coming loose in the disty, working intermittently until it finally lets go

there will be a "ticking" noise from the lifters if they get old, but is fairly normal. rattling sounds like a ping issue, maybe she is getting too hot, there might be a slight leak in the cooling system, ir possibly a bad head gasket. but running hot somewhere......

ea82 struts in an ea81? and by thus doing so, xt6 suspension pices? i know how to do that, if i had all the parts!

if a front axle lets go, just put it in 4wd and keep going to get home. 4wd wont bind if an axle is broken. the axle will stay in the doj, ait wont flop around like a dead fish...it will break at the bearings rather than the middle of the shaft.

it will be a little easier to put the motor in if you remove the distributor, first. you will either need to drill out the flywheel bolts(as on Tom's, and GLF we did), or use the flywheel and pressure plate from a ea82 5spd(2 or 4wd) the ea82 has larger flywheel bolts other than that it will fit, i got one in my 83 wagon, i moved the battery and coil to the other side of the car, as like an ea82, using the ea82 battery cables, and lengthening the wires to the coil, leaving the disty wires alone. you will want a distributor from an 85-86 distributor to work, but you can also modify the ea81 distributor to fit the ea82 if you swap out the little gear on the end.

on my gl-10 wagon, with turbo mpfi harness and coil, spfi motor, and coil from an 86 carbbed, i jumped a wire from the positive battery terminal to the positive coil terminal, and the whole car came on as if the key was in the run position. and then i started it by jumping the solenoid. what i'm saying is you can start the car from under the hood with no key!

i have had them where the axle will come off the hub end, stick to the diff, take it all out and swing a bug hammer, rotating the doj each strike, pounding the backside of the doj away from the diff. if ya gotta heat them up, you can take the axle apart at the doj, get the doj off the diff, and then put the axle back together

the physical demonsions will fit in the ea82 body, but you will either have to use an adapter plate, or use an ej transmission. and wiring harnesses and such, unless you invent your own manifold for a carb and the like!

you will want to do the driver side 12:00 ifrst. then rotate crank 360, the driver will now be at 6:00 then do your passenger at 12:00. now yer set! the hatnes book will throw you off if you go by pics alone. it is showing both cams up, because the pics assume the 360 crank rotation. check the text

find a junkyard car if it has no title, swap in your dashboard, and now you "still have the same car"

oops. my bad! do it up something good!

i got my turbo motor down in the wagon, and made up some ductwork so the MAF sits right above the "subaru 4wd turbo"plenum, for a cone filter. i woll be exploring the idea of ahood scoop myself!

i have seen worse, actually, had TWICE worst myself. the little chunk behind the door isnt even there on my gl-10, i have had cars with no rocker panels, the rear quarter is expected to be gone for eny soob i get ahold of. get a pic of the underside of the framerail, i have seen them pretty much gone, but the car still holds up. take it from me, the car is not too rusty to consider not fixing it. these guys out west could not comprehend the rust in the midwest, upper east, find your best example and they will tell you its a rust-bucket!!! they junk cars over smog tests, not rust!