MilesFox

hey, i didnt see your message. what name will it come up as my email is milesfox@yahoo.com send me a private message too to back it up!

i'll check that right away. enjoy the snow!(if you got any)

i go with the napas myself. most economical, napa doesnt necesarily have cheap stuff. i got the napa tru-stop ones, but i think they carry bendix wearever too, with lifetime replacement

junkie: the rx tranny when open diff, allows for it to be in 4wd without axle bind. when locked electrically, it is just like a normal 5spd 4wd, when its in 4wd its locked all the time. with a locked diff, you have power to one ot the other wheel in front, and one or the other wheel in back, and both must turn at the same rate. when oppen, you have power to one or the other in front, and one or the other in back, baut are allowed to turn at different rates. the lsd will make it one wheel up front and both in back. Jack:you woul;d have to take apart both trannies to swap the electric lock into a 5spd from an rx, but i dont know squat about taking a tranny apart!

jim, i would go ahead and get new boots, they have the split type, but get the OE type boots(which require disassembly of the axle to replace). you already have molybendum grease, so if you get the boots, i can rebuild them for you. i was going to do the same on my axle on my turbo wagon, rather than the split clamp on boots. my axle didnt make noise, but now its pulling since i got stuck in some mud. i need to take it apart and clean it out before it damages, but if i do that now it will be ok since its not making noise, you it would last as long if not longer than aftermarket axles(and cheaper, too!) as long as you dont drive the hell iout of them before you get them fixed!

haynes book says something like 23, 43, and 47, give or take a few numbers, but i have always done 25, 40, and 50, using a bar type torque wrench, and has been reliable, no re-torque. i ahve always used the victor reinz head gaskets from napa, with the graphite face, and the hugher end gaskets have a bead of silicone around the water passages

something about bosch L-type injectors, somethimg about injectors on nissan z-cars will work. look into that i dont know specifically, but i read something about it a time ago

i just typed all this up and lost it, so here goes again..... a 4spd will fit the same, as long as you carry over the driveshaft and rear diff, and crossmember, and its mounting bolts. there are 2 suspension bolts that will be taken out, and the longer ones that hold the crossmember on will replace them. you can use a 5spd, but it may not exactly clear the trans tunnel. you will also have to cleverly mount the 4wd shifter, as it is different in design. jerry (bratsrus10 can offer his services to make an install kit, you sent him the parts and he will modify them, it will get the ea81 4wd lever to fit stock on the ea82 tranny. you may be able to stack wahers on the crossmember bolts to drop it down for the trans to clear, as General Disorder dod to fit a 4spd in a 2wd. I put a 5spd in a turbo 84 wagon, but with a 3 inch lift. when using the 5spd, you will need the flywheel/clutch, 2pc driveshaft(or lengthen your existing), and the rear diff that has the 3.90 gear. i cant remember if the ea82 flywheel bolts fit on the ea81 turbo, but on a normal ea81, you use the skinnier ea81 flywheel bolts on the ea82 flywheel's larger holes. the flywheel will center itself the way it fits against the crank. you will not have to modify your engine bellhousing, being a turbo. the crossmenber from the 5spd(ea82) will fit the same as one from the 4spd. a 4 and 5 spd will have the same axle spline as the turbo's AT it has been done a number of ways, so if you run into a problem, just refer to the collective expertise on the board! be specific in questions, because one might have done it a different way than another, and one of us will have the answer to your specific methid. good luck!

you could just swap the whole ea82 manifold and carb in one piece, that is, if you know the ea82's carb is good. you wont have to hook up all the feedback stuff to work, but the ecs light will always be on. to put the ea82 manifold on the ea81, it might be in the way of the distributor. you can take the mounting tab for the dist and mount it upside down, flip the dist body 180 deg to clear the water neck. when doing that, with the dist body backward, keep the rotor pointing like it was. because the disty is backwards, connect all your plug wires backwards to the cap, so they are in line with the distributor.

hey, Jim made it well worth my while to work for him. but i told him i would have been just as happy if he only gave me the used timing belts! we ought to plan something around the next time i come to jim's, on one of my 3-day weekends, jim could bring me down with him if he were to meet with you.

way to go, tom. now them electrical condui...* i mean Dual Exhaust can do their thing! got any snow up there yet? its gonna be a fun winter! dont forget i still got your haynes manual. i will be putting the rest of my turbo motor together and down in my ride this weekend. i have today thru sunday off. it would be a good excuse to break in the new Weber! if you feel like visiting give a call (260) 908-1259 (josh;s phone. if you come in from 69, turn left on elm st, immediately before the Citgo(used to be marathon) its the last house on the right with a driveway full of soobs. my door is on the left

well, we can live with it as long as it still works, which it does well. josh may sell the car to robert, but it would be nice to find a 5 spd! i wouldnt mind an ej22 in the trashwagon myself! thanx for the info, it eliminated a lot of possibilities.

i put a 3spd in an ea81 turbo, to replace the automatic. having the low gear will let you pull some quick rpms, i accidentally aqualled(not exactly, but broke loose) the tires doing a clutch drop in 2nd hi, i thought i was in 1st low! anyway, the automatic wouldnt let the tires break free in mud, let alone shift right..... the 3.9 gear is a lot more fun than a 3.7--i got a 5spd single range in my gl-10, and it didnt want to pull in the sloppies. i had a 5 inch lift on the ea81, didnt affect the axles, the ea81 turbo automatic uses the same axle as the regular trannies. when you lift a soob, the axles will be in the same alignment relative to the suspension, because its all a body lift. if your car is already turbo, being it had(has) an rx tranny, or a single range 5spd, it will already have the s27(or 29? turbos have more)plines for the turbo axles. if you are going to use a regular 5spd dual range, you will need to find the non turbo axles, or swap DOJ with the 25 spline i know of board members who have swapped 3.90 gears into 3.70 gear LSD, and the rx 5spd is not much different than a normal 5spd, and i would suppose that the gears would swap into a an rx tranny without fitment issues! for the tire question: I have a 5spd dual range with a n/a ea82 motor in my 83 wagon, had a set of 16 inch chevy rims drilled out with 205/55 tires, i broke the inner doj turning from a stop while getting on it, but that is because the boot had been gone for some time, the axle coming from a parts 88 wagon

yes, sir, the timing belts are on the ea82 engine, found in 85-94. but the hatch and brat continued to use a gear driven cam motor(ea71 and ea81) thru 87 and 89

dude called me out. I have to keep true to my character, you know! but anyway, i see where you come from, but dude kept responding!

where is bexley, oh? Both Tom and Myself have been yo Jim's place in ohio, And i have met with Alleyboy there too. we meet every so often. Jim goes as 86 subaru, he gots lots of parts if you may need something. look him up. maybe a meet someday? We got out Subaru Alliance, local to the mi, oh, and indiana region. would like to get more members, and have another meet next may!

hwew do you have your pics hosted at? i got pics on yahoo photos, but i cant link directly. get with subaru junkie for pics hosting. i guess you can upload a pic as an atatchment from your computer to your message, but i havent tried that, doing all my comm at the library but anyway, keep up on the board and you will know what my situation will be. some people will be following it, because the reason for which my car is in idaho was once hot topic on the old board. and i will be posting about making the tip out there. anyway, stay tuned, drop me an email milesfox@yahoo.com

is it broke, like shattered, or just not closing up?

that's what i said, but i gorgot to say ea81 for gen 2. oops the justy has a geo metro motor, and its sideways. Suzuki said "Hey Subaru! Design us a 4wd platform for our suzukis" and Subaru said "Sure we will, but we get the marketing rights and sell them as soobs!"

on my 83, i did an ea82 suspension conversion, which required longer(ea82 tierods) my car was a manual rack, and my parts were from a power rack. but the threads are different, the manual had male threads and the power had female(i think, one way or the other) anyway, it was a homosexual thread that would not work between power and manual but that should be one of the differences.

undo the nut from the motor mount on that side.(under the crossmember) jack up that side of the motor until the exhaust pipe meets the crossmember. you can get it up out of the framerail some 2-3 inches. makes it a lot easier. i took one off without doing that, everytime i got a socket on a bolt, by the time i backed it out, it was wedged against the car, with the wrench! its actually called a cam(case) cover on the ea82 either way described will work, but you will have less time in jacking the motor than you will turning the bolts 1/8 turn at a time!

he may have connected the wrong fuel hose to the pump. i have taken the fuel pump out from underneath, so i can hook it up to a gas can to drive the car out of the woods! anyway, all of the vapor can can be eliminated. there are 3 lines from the tank, one the main fuel, one the vent, and one the return. the mechanic probably connected the vent and return wrong, causing it to flood. is the pump to a switch, or does it come on with a key. i'll bet the original subaru pump worked, but some relay was out! you say your car was 85, ea81? what body style is it?(wagon, hatchback, sedan...) tom is right about too much pressure. i had a carb motor in a turbo car, the car would start up and die, was flooding out. swapped pumps with one from a carbbed, and problems solved. i have done this for several vehicles with success. try to find a soob pump, check behind the rear wheel to see if the original is there. the pump under the hood is probably drawing through, and the mechanic was too lazy to look. in fact, he probably thought the pump was in the tank, so he never thought to look. shows how much he knows about soobs! it would have been too easy to fix it right, 2 bolts and a plastic plug!

i got one of them 23 dollar valve tools from napa. its almost a piece of junk, but i got it to work. ieither its too tight, or the tongs wont hold ontop the springs. i would have to hold the tongs to the dpring by hand, and then work the lever with my other hand and against my knee to squeexe it, on a piece of cardboard in the driveway! (the mosquitoes in the garage were too much) since i had it apart, and my seal kit came with new valve seals, i poked the heads out with a dremel. works good for grinding cracks away!

if ever the case with ambient dust like as in going down county roads, rull up the indows and crank up the vent, to keep positive air pressure in the car! otherwise, having the front windows down will suck in dirt from the rusted trunk.

here in the great state of Indiana, you can plate your 4wd subaru wagon with a 10,000 pounds truck plate, and by thus not having to wear seatbelts in the front seat, because its not required in a truck., laws dont make sense, they work in both good and bad ways. no one ever applied common sense to law, just procedure. so how does a plate mean the difference between a ticket in the same car?