MilesFox

it might happen in my 83 wagon--if i dont land the xt6 up town.

had one for parts, 1983 sunroof and power windows 2wd 5 spd i had the badge, but the gl10 part broke off.

i'll bet the fuel pump mount from a 83 or so would bolt right into place

if you wanted to go the spfi route, just swap on the entire spfi manifold

i might be up that way, or down that way on my way to or back from idaho to get my trashwagon. i could stop by. if everything goes right i will be making my trip sometime by november

the gen 1 is referring to the 70's models. or often called ea71's. your car would be in the gen 2 range, 80-84 wagons, sedans, and 80-89 hatchback and brats. the what would be a gen 3 as you put it would be the 85-94 ea82 cars. but they started calling them loyale in 90 when the legacy came out. all of these have the ea series motor, and the legacy and newer have ej motors

its all sH!ts ang giggles from here on. so what's this REAL car? my car is real too. i can touch it, smell it, and taste it!

one place in particular that i have noticed soobs to rust is where the rear of the front fenders meet the rocker panel behind the wheel. dirt will pile up back there, holding in moisture, i would suggest pulling the fenders and cleaning them out, and rust proof it before it goes back on. spray some GREAT STUFF foam in there too. check out the rear cargo wells, and up front the framerails, as they are the first to rust on soobs, and wheel arches too. try to shoot some foam in some of the body cavities to displace any potential, dirt, leaves, moisture build-up

probably not exactly, although i have never compared. the round is the panasonic, and the sqare is the hitachi, and between the both, they have different belt tensioner pulleys. suppose the compressors would interchange, the pulleys will neeed to line up, and if they do, you might have to mix and match around for one of 3 style belts but i am not telling you it wint fit............just as long as you got enough parts to play with!

it will work with the mix, but the orange life will only be as good as the green mixed in. but other than that it will still work like its supposed to. also the orange stuff will find its way leaking through holes the green stuff wont leak thru. the difference is the orange is extended life, but it doesnt do any good but cost more money if yer changin fluids every year! but you can mix what you got and be good for at least as long as the green is rated for. i would personally prefer the green stuff, we had an 87 spfi wagon that kept getting hot with the orange stuff, but it was leaking out of the same radiator that we had for green, which did not leak. havent tried orance since the radiator was replaced.....

yo! lets see your dirty hands! lets see your "World's Only Subaru 2-door Wagon"! Lets see your Ea81 body with ea82 motor, suspension, and transmission, lets see your ported and polished heads, lets see your krylon paint job, sheetmetal body armor, and 6 inch lift! Lets see your ea81 in an ea82 body with spfi. lets see your ea82 water pump on an ea81 motor. lets see your 2wd 5spd to 4wd 5spd, your 4wd auto to 4wd 5spd, and 2wd auto to 4wd 5 spd. no? thats what i thought! HEY< i know these things from DOING, not collectively listening to whoever. and you called me out? "IF YA GOTTA PROBLEM LETS TAKE IT OFF ROAD" (which shows i know how to drive, too:moon: ) "I AM MILES FOX!"

yes, its an auto. if i remove the driveshaft, leave the fuse in, and the car continues to make this noise, what should i make of it. everything works like its supposed to, but just noisy!

i have seen the sqare kind with both the alternator outboard and the alternator inboard. i like these because you can mount the alternator with the compressor removed. but the one with the inboard alt has odd sized belts, and that makes for trouble at the parts counter!

ok, lets give a day to put the block together, and the next day to go from there!

the rubber strip is tricky to install, make sure it fits in all the channels like its supposed to, you might have to poke it into some of the channels, hard to stuff sometimes!

there should be some sort of solenoid on the side. the governor shaft wont have to do with 4wd. there are several electrical connections on top of the tranny. can you read a schematic? the haynes subaru repair manual has schematics that should cover the 4wd mechanism

oh, another thing------it has a 5spd d/r? from what i have read the didnt offer a 5spd in a sedan. is yours originally like that from the factory, or did someone convert it. you dont have PRNDL on the instrument panel? i had put a 5spd in an 4wd automatic sedan, and we put a 5spd in a friends 2wd auto sedan

the 86 spfi was jims, i had worked on the speedo... i had an 86 wagon, an 86 sedan, both carbbed, and my 83 wagon has the motor and trans from an 86. personally i like the 85 and 86 best, the gauges, the distributors are good for other applications, and the steering wheel doesnt look like a big dildo! if its only got 57k, good hell of a find! i dont think you will have any trouble with it, as long as you take care of it, and if the previous owner hasnt serviced it, well, at least its not due for a timing belt yet (almost-service schedule recommends replacing timing belt every 60000 miles) the 86 is probably the best year for the 5spd dual range 4x4 transmission. your car being carbbed, as long as it gets driven often enough, the carb wont crap out from dry rot. just keep clean filters in it and you will be good forever. and a personal story from me- I picked up an 86 wagon that had an estimated 300,000 miles, carbureted, i went to go pick it up from the previous owner, who had it sitting for over a year, and it started right up. the body was about shot, but it ran good, the only problem was a rusty brake line and rusty ffuel line. i used the motor in an 88, then used the heads on another motor, and the carb on an other motor, and put the 300,000 mile trany in a 60,000 mile car, and it shifted better than my 150,000 mile tranny! you got a good find, especially from michigan. I live in NE indiana, and i know how rare a good soob and parts can be. Locally, you got Myself, TomRHere, and 86 Subaru to call on for help, we would like to have another meet next year, and we would like for you to meet with us some day!

broken timing belt? check to see if the distributor turns.

i put a sunroof in a wagon, after it became a 2-door!

...........and a 5 spd transmission.....

either the heads pr just the cqm can be swapped TrashWagon's motor has a carb block and spfi heads(no emissions taps at exhaust ports), and i use the carb cams, i think. anyway, i have a ccarb atop spfi heads, eliminated a lot of emissions ccrap, got a cherrybomb, straight pipe,2 1/2 inch, and an spfi y pipe. runs like a scalded dog. as far as rebuilding goes, theave teh bottom ent intact, and just do the seals. if you have it apart, you might as well do the head gaskets, for good measure. reopace the cam, oil pump seals, water pump gasket, and do new belts. you could leave the plastic covers off completely, if you anticipate future timing belt changes(is like i do mine, no reliability issues that way) that way all you will need to do is take off the alt/ps belts to cange a t-belt, rather than the whole front end of the motor! as far as time goes, myself and Tomrhere, did a turbo motor, tore it out of the car, apart, new complete eals and gasket set, put it back together, and got it running and driving that night. it can be easily done in a weekend, a day by the experienced. just make sure you have everything you need to start with, so you have no downtime. put about 4-6 hours for the motor, and an hour each for pulling, and installing

was the motor is good working order before it came apart? chances are its still useable. i have used questional parts myself to find tem still good.

everyone has their own preferred methods and techniqiesi fitst thing i do is punch out he pins with 3/16 do like tom's approach, but always pop the ball joint. i can pop the balljoint using a jack and a hammer, thus pulling the knucke away from the control arm. i have used 2x4, pipe, whatever is long enougn, pry down the lower control arm to take it apart or put back together. make s it a 1 man operation i leave the rotor and caliper on the strut. i always undid the tie rod, but i tried it connected. althogh it can be left on, i find it easier to move the strut around with it out. you can thread the nut on backwards, flush with the stud, and give it a sharp blow with a hammer to pop it out. you can pop th eball joint by placing the jack ight on the stus, jack it up to preload the suspension, and tap the lower control arm, the load of suspension will bring it away. this is why i like to take the tierod off. the car is already on a jackstand, take the jack lut. i can do an axle in roughly 10 minutes this way

everyone has their own preferred methods and techniqiesi fitst thing i do is punch out he pins with 3/16 do like tom's approach, but always pop the ball joint. i can pop the balljoint using a jack and a hammer, thus pulling the knucke away from the control arm. i have used 2x4, pipe, whatever is long enougn, pry down the lower control arm to take it apart or put back together. make s it a 1 man operation i leave the rotor and caliper on the strut. i always undid the tie rod, but i tried it connected. althogh it can be left on, i find it easier to move the strut around with it out. you can thread the nut on backwards, flush with the stud, and give it a sharp blow with a hammer to pop it out. you can pop th eball joint by placing the jack ight on the stus, jack it up to preload the suspension, and tap the lower control arm, the load of suspension will bring it away. this is why i like to take the tierod off. the car is already on a jackstand, take the jack lut. i can do an axle in roughly 10 minutes this way