MilesFox

all of the different styles of starters i have seen will mount the same at least being a 5spd to begin with you can use the same mounts and crossmember. the only trouble spot will be the driveshaft mount. what you got is a little less involved than the 2wd auto to 5spd 4wd that we did, so i know for a fact you can do it with no problem

its only a waste of time having 3 cars if someone junks 2 of them when you werent looking! but gettin your hands dirty on more and more soobs is gold. you are only going to know about what you get into to begin with. that is my claim to my subaru knowledge, because i went through so many of them. i think if you can manage, keep them all swap around the best stuff on your favorite ride, and use the leftovers to keep the others driveable. to bad you didnt live out this way, because you can let the grass grow high enough and no one would see them to complain!!!! as long as you can see them done its worh it. just so long as you dont mind spending all your time on subarus. but if you have a subaru, what better else is there to do?! (besides the message board!)

both driver side windows work, but the passenger windows dont. jim, i noticed the switch was busted on the passenger rear door. i remember danny;s car had the switch hanging by the wire, and it got caught in the door, and busted. after that half his windows didnt work. in that switch there may be electrical connectiond that complete the other window's circuits. replace that switch with a good one (i'm sure you have one on one of those doors you got! i looked at it and the wire is pretty far down there, so you will probably have to remove the door panel to get at it. replace the switch and see if that fixes it, and we'll go from there. i highly doubt the window motors themselves are bad, but at least fix the switch before removing the seats and carpet to check the breaker

it might already have the parts necessary behind the dash. if it was eqiupped for optional ac. there is ductwork behind the stereo console for the heater core, it might be in there, but i have no clue. you could cut through the ductwork(althoug a redneck method) to get at what you need

hope its not the front diff! drian the diff oil and see of chunky bits come out the last one might have just been the governor. maybe between the 2 trannies you will have enough parts for one to work!

i know all about that drill at the dr. angle grinder bits in my eye. didnt know it was metal in my eye until a few days later when i couldnt standit any longer. tom, sorry about the over spray at Jim's! at least you get your daily iron requirements for the past 20 years! basically, my point is: dont let no havin' of safety goggles ruin your credit over no damn hospital bill!

there are a lot of soob guys around australia area, just ask someone to point you to them!

i put rear discs on mine, the only fitment issue was a little rust needed to be brushed off. the 2wd backing plate being smaller sounds like the problem. because the 4wd rear knuckle hosed the bearings, thus being larger than the 2wd rear knuclke that has a spinlde insteead. aside from that i know you can use the caliper and rotor(after swapping hubs) from a 2wd. the rotors on the trashagon came off a 2wd gl-10(you know, one of the 2wd blue with blue interior gl-10's that jim keeps coming up with):temper:

your best bet would be to tap it out with courser threads. its lot cheaper than helicoul, and holds better too. get ahold of tomrhere on the board, he will tell you the details. if you search, he has posted how to do it acouple of times. something about a 7/16" (14 threads per inch) search for that

cool, south bend is within a day's drive for me, and a fwr other members. maybe we can schedule next year's Subaru Alliance meet around the south bend rally. we got turbos!

jump all over it for that price. brats are hard to find this side of the mississippi, at leas ones that didnt rust away. brats are starting to get expensive just like the old volkswagen beetle. that is what i would pay for a rusted out wagon, so sounds like its a steal! most of you fuel and brake line runs INSIDE the car, the fuel pump is external, so if any of it needs replaced its all right there by the rear axle, and easy to get to.

yaeh, if you spend any time or money on rust, go all uout. at least you know it will last out west there. it wouldnt be worth putting a lot of money into rust repair on a midwest car, as it will rust out again. unless you never take the car outside! anything rusty we might as well accept it one place to consider is where the front fenders atatch behind the wheel. dirt and leaves will accumulate there holding moisture and rust out the bottom of the fenders. rust is expected there on any soob found around these parts

however much the tracls may weigh, it woild be all unsprung weight, so it wouldn bear down on suabrus suspension. with the tracks, the gvwr would still be the same, the traxls woulsnt use any of that rating up.

i read that suzuki used the soob lug pattern.

you could have you lift bolt to the body, using existing bolts, and then have the suspension bolt to the lift. i did min e that way, but a thru bolt application would probably be more sturdy.

the gm style tool they have at autozone works just as well on subarus

true, there are no mounts on the 2wd model. take te entire rear suapension as one piece, so the mont for the diff is there, and the rear trailing arms that have the 4wd hubs.

yea, and if you are painting the roof or hood, use your fullest cans, once it gets half empty, use a new can. use your half or low cans to paint vertical surfaces like the doors or sides. that way the spary doesn sputter ot qiut henthe can is tilted. i am curious to see how my job hods up this time. TrashWagon5 seemed to hold up well over the winter. i'll bet thi paint lasts longer. i had to touch up my last job when existing rust "bled" through the paint. by now i already know what to expect from different paints. i know the cheap/fast-drystuff will oxidize after a few months. but at least its so cheap it would be considered "maintenance" to re-paint you rride every year, sort of a buff and wax in its own right!

i'll admit my lift was dook, but what would you expect for something cheap and eperimental. my lift wa sessentially the idea of a lift. i took it out because it was a rolling wreck! whatever is your bag. at least i had fun with it!!!!

the html is all messed up. i cant make sense of it anymore. any "paraphrasing" or hosting would have to be a "copy and paste" operation

like i said, a lot of it has been floating around, interlinked between free hosting, and a lot of it is mangled, lost, or otherwise never put together to begin with. i still got a lot of content, but no one has seen it. if i has a way to publish with real resources, i could crank out websites all day long (at leas an hour a day at the library)

that's cool. i thought it cost like a grand to have a car in cali, the way the news spins the whole recall dal out this way. good luck so would you ever "tour" your "wagon" out this way?

its like these highschool kids see me powerslide into mac d's parking lot, and they are like cool. and i am like get a subaru, they are pimp. and they are like,wei like 2wd. i'll stichk to my crapalier. and i am like what about the baja'n and they are like i'll get a jep and iam lilke, but jeep didnt make a turbo! and then i get fired for putting stickers on the drive thru

hee hee the smiley tom... hey, the threads on jims turbo motor actually held enough torque for the cross- pipe. and here is the part you didn't know....the gaskets dont leak now that it runs:brow:

so how much does it cost to register a car in california these days? let the computer go and gets the soob! you dont just up and get offered touring wagons all the time. we just fixed a turbo motor with a bad gasket, it started right up. the motor in the back of my gl-10 had both head hgaskets blown, heads are still good! doing up a turbo motor is no mre than any other soob motor, 'cept for a big ol' turbo hanging out the back.