2.5GL

There is vacuum from two lines on TB at different times going to the BPT valve. Vacuum goes through BPT valve and is switched by a solenoid. When solenoid opens (only at certain RPMs, under a specific range of load, after coolant temp reaches its special figure...) The EGR valve itself will open to "quench" the intake charge of air. To test the EGR system... Warm car to operating temp Moderately rev engine while watching EGR valve. Valve should move. There is a sweet spot to get the valve to stay open longer. It is a matter of how fast you accelerate. Too slow, it may not open. Too fast, it will barely have time to open before you passed its operating range. you'll have to play with it a bit. If valve does not move there may be a vacuum leak in the valve diaphragm, mechanical or electrical fault in EGR solenoid (vacuum switch), faulty BPT, cracked, split, loose, or plugged hose. Check the metal lines as well, they can corrode from the inside. If everything checks out and you still get a DTC of PO400 EGR flow malfunction, then look into this... While engine is idling, pull open the valve with your finger or hook to a vacuum tester. The engine should stumble or almost die. Option 1: Engine does not stumble... Plugged up EGR valve, easily cleaned when removed. OR a clogged EGR runner in intake manifold. Have fun fixing this one. Option 2: Engine does stumble, but DTC code keeps recurring and all components check out... Replace the MAP sensor filter, opposite side of intake located in the middle of a hose going from the intake to the MAP sensor on the RF strut tower. It is about the size of a quarter in diameter, maybe about a half an inch thick, wrapped in gray or black foam with a white, cream, or gray plastic body. Subaru Part # 22663AA010. For pics of the filter mentioned and more info see: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84705&highlight=MAP+filter Did I miss anything? Somebody have something to add? This is what I went a few rounds with in my impreza last year and this is what I remember. Thanks WAWalker on the part number.... You saved me from pulling out whatever hair I had left.

I don't see why not, but I am sure somebody here has a reason.... I personally have the adapters for mine when I go that route. My decision was for cost. Already have studs, lug nuts, pug wheels, and it was $12 for the adapters.

Clarification... 16 flashes indicates a problem with the transmission in general. Codes must be checked to verify the exact problem, usually electrical in nature. SINCE you have a known VSS failure, you can surmise that the codes are for the VSS problem. Yes the AWD will be forced into a greater bias for AWD, but I wouldn't park the car for this problem, just avoid full lock circles on dry pavement.... Since the speedo is not showing speed that is (one) of the codes you'll have. The sensor is in the speedo head itself, the other is the one on the back of the trans, and rarely goes bad. And, if the gear you see in the trans does not move when the car is in gear, the gear in the trans is stripped and requires a tear down to replace. Make sure the cable if firmly seated into the adapter thingy on the trans, I like to have the car in the air, trans engaged, and plug it in while the gear is turning, you can then immediately see the speedo work if it is all good.

Check to see if they are still plugged in, check fuses in engine compartment box... 260K and the fans have not been replaced? It is likely they are now worn out. you should test for resistance across the fan motor(s). Open Loop or very high resistance means they are bad.

You'll be fine with this car, if you drive like a normal person. If you decide you need to routinely haul a car load of people and gear, tow a trailer, and/or go at warp speed, by a bigger, more powerful vehicle. I know a few people whom routinely go skiing and take a car load of people with them nearly every time, they have no complaints about it, A/C on or not. Good luck on your new purchase!

Heater core (#2) in my 98 RS last October... Did #1 in March. The first was a used unit with around 13,000 miles on it and free. The last one was new, but was a couple hundred dollars. Plus all the intimate time spent with my car (twice), late at night, by myself, wishing I were asleep or something.

Did you set the crank to the middle of the three marks on the flywheel/flexplate prior to installing the belts? These marks are nowhere near the ignition timing marks, FYI. Did you install belts with one cam up (passenger's) and one cam down (driver's)? If so, you have other issues. Was the car running fine when the belt broke? If yes, then the belts are not installed properly.

AFAIK, check the VIN on any Subaru... If it starts with JF1 or JF2, it is Japan. If it starts with 4S3, Lafayette, Indiana, USA

Ditto for sure. I have worked on these for over 11 years now, and agree completely.

What you had specifically was a 2.5 from a Manual transmission 99 OB. At least that is the defining matter that I have seen. 8 bolt bell housing instead of 4. The flywheel and clutch are the same size, etc. However there might be a holding capability issue with a 2.2 cover plate. I do know that all new clutches, discs, and flywheels have superseded to all the same number. If you are unsure, and don't want to go there again, buy new ones. If you want to split hairs on this. the clutch itself won't matter. They all measure .330 when new. Clutch covers, (cover plate, pressure plate, etc) had a different clamping capacity in the past. new ones *should* be the same.

Your best bet when searching is to look for parts for Legacy GTs and early Impreza 2.5 RS. Struts from earlier legacys and imprezas 95 or so through 04/5 will fit if you want to lower it. A set-up I have seen used is a set of WRX struts and Tein lowering springs. It makes the car nice and low, running 17s and not rubbing. If you do any degree of engine work, make sure you take the time to install and use a tuning device such as "Perfect Power" or something of the sort. You will then be able to utilize the performance goodies to their best advantage. IMO, Swapping a WRX engine in may not be best suited if you wish to run off-road. the power comes on too late, and torque is not available very low in the RPM range. I am sure somebody will attest otherwise. Perhaps how it is tuned will affect the outcome. http://www.rallitek.com/ http://www.get-primitive.com/ http://mrtperformance.com.au/ http://www.pdxtuning.com/

Nothing yet (that I know of), Little bro has his car now, but I am uncertain if the light was ever fixed before he picked it up. They have the info from here on how to go about fixing it, I'll leave it up to them to figure it out. Thanks! L

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html I got this link from a friend some years ago. While not specific to Subaru, It shines some light on the quality of filters available these days. It was last updated in 2008. Site gives insight on materials used in construction of filter media, types of bypass valves, etc, etc. An interesting read for any technophiles out there, and rather relevant to where this thread seems headed... I would suggest starting with one of the two links in the first sentence of the site. L

I'll blame Julie... Everything went wrong about the time she showed up... Actually, it was more like Rodney leaving Now, if Paul shows signs of leaving, I don't know what I'll do. Well, they used to have it, had a key cut about 2-3 years ago. AND- They should be able to cut a 1990 Legacy key. I have those cut all the time. About 2 times a week.

If you get the code, most any Subaru Dealer will be able to cut the key for the price of a key blank, should be 6-8 bucks. All dealers should have a hand-held device for cutting the older keys by code. Kinda like a glorified hole punch, but for metal. They use a computer/machine to cut the new ones.

I would be weary of the sunroofs... Otherwise leather, seat heater, mirror defoggers, window de-icer, etc, etc, can be very nice at times.

2.4?

+1

Net gain is higher compression, correct? How well do they flow though?

The only thing I can say about a 95 EJ22 with a factory single port exhaust is that it might be a California emissions model. I am not savvy in the ways of federal and CA emissions junk and their particular years of differences though. Perhaps somebody here (USMB) either in a parts department, state emissions program or other similar entity could shine some more light on this. It could also simply be Subaru's production date break down for the 95-96 transition. Who knows?.... it could be a matter a semantics, if you will. After 5/95 Subaru may have considered that to be a 1996 Model year. While industry standards (a very loose interpretation) seem to be 8/95 and later get the 1996 model year designation. While this is not set in stone, every manufacturer can say what year their car is no matter the production date. Either way, it would be nice to figure out what the breakdown is...

Let us split hairs on this one... You have the header section of a later model 2.5 "Y" pipe. Then, you had a custom exhaust installed after the header (at the factory flange), including a new catalytic converter, mid pipe, and muffler... Kudos to your exhaust guy by the way, it looks great. The particular header you used is from 1995 model year 2.2 engine (to 5-95 says the parts book) and all 2.5 up through 1999. EJ22s went to a single port exhaust for the 1996-2001 model years. If this later engine is used, just get the single port exhaust header. L

Hope you are out in the garage working on it today. Not much going on outside with the cold and rain this weekend... Inquiring minds want to know. You better get crackin' Mr. Miller.

I believe he is still waiting for that answer... as are many of us. Perhaps one of these days somebody will get to it before me (putting the 275 Ohm resistor in), but if not, it will most likely be sometime in the spring before I get to mine... (EJ swap, that is.)

Clutch pedal stopper... 36036AA080 = $6.00 retail from SOA.

I only have a thought for the cruise control. If it is a 5 speed, I would suspect the stopper on the clutch pedal to be missing and thus, no signal to the control unit that the clutch is completely released. It is a simple, small, cheap part that is rather obvious should you look at the switches mounted on the pedal bracket. The top one, where the clutch pedal rests should have a white plastic stopper in the pedal to push the switch.