Hondasucks

yeah I can always drain the tank and put the gas in the lawnmower lol.. I've already run it outta gas once cuz it gets worse mileage than I had expected (18 vs 30) so that prolly didn't help!

So what kinda springs did you use?

Might get more results with "WeBer" although "webber" seems to be a common mis-spelling on here so you'd prolly get some results with either one. I have a weber on my 82 4x4 sedan, definately opened it up quite a bit, however I do need to re-jet it, as it came off of a 22R. And don't gut your cat, replace it with a piece of pipe. Gutting the cat leaves a hollow chamber that builds turbulence, creating probably just as much restriction as the cat did.

My wagon does a similar thing, I always thought it was the hill holder not adjusted right or something. I'm gonna go tinker with it tomorrow see if I can get the damn clutch to work right.

I paid you the other day with PayPal for the XT6 clutch kit, but I have subsequently lost your email address. Have you received my payment and sent the clutch kit??

Hey Corky, I'm not sure if it is the case with these wheels, but I saw some JDM STi wheels on ebay a while back, that were 5x125 lug pattern, not the 5x100 that the 5 lug conversion uses.

I did some thinking, that tranny has been sitting in my shed taking up space for almost three years. You want it, come get it it's yours. If you can't make it up here, then find someone who is heading down that way that's willing to haul it down for ya. AS for the carb, I dunno, I had a stack of carbs but I gave them to Jason cuz I no longer had an EA81. You don;t have an ECS light cuz its an 82, but drive it around a bit (like 10 minutes or so) adn then WITHOUT SHUTTING THE ENGINE OFF, pull the kick panel out from under the steering column (above the pedals) and count the flashes on the ECU (You'll see a black box with a window in the front with ablinking red light behind it, count the flashes. Long flashes are 10 and short flashes are 1, write down the codes and look them up. YOu could have a problem with the car that the computer is picking up, but there is no "check engine" light on the 82, at least there wasn't one on mine. (e.g, 3 long flashes and 2 short flashes would be code 32) watch carefully, there could be more than one code present. The autos didn't get that great of mileage, my 82 only got around 24.

People said gas prices wouldn't go back down after the first war in Iraq, and you know what, they did. They may not ever go back to 80 cents a gallon, but I do not see them staying at the friggin $2.29 it is here for Regular at Chevron, just like it didn't stay at $2.09 last year, it went back down to $1.69 or so.

Make sure it is a GERMAN BUILT Passat. The Mexican built VWs are GARBAGE as far as the electrical systems are concerned (Not that VWs have always had good electrical systems, but the Mexican ones are worse).. Ask JonOfScio, he works at a Volkswagen dealer.

this looks like a good article for the USRM

Well, I have a feeling that the fuel filter in this car has been neglected... And, at least in the EA81 carb I took apart, there was a screen in the supply line behind the nipple the fuel hose attaches to.. I had to take that out and soak it in chem-dip to get the gunk out of it. Trust me, this carb is getting soaked in chem-dip for like, a week lol, it;s gonna look liek brand new :-) And this thing BETTER run like a champ when I get done with it! (And get better than 18MPG..)

I have a good 82 2WD automatic tranny. Make me an offer on it, I'm about 200 miles north of ya. As for the carb, rebuild it but use a good kit and get somene to copy the proper pages out of their FSM, as those carbs are quite picky, but are good when properly rebuilt...

well, if the vacuum modulator is bad, tranny fluid will get sucked into the intake, which I suppose could find its way into the crankcase, if there was enough of it, although usually it is just enough to make a nice james bond smokescreen out the tail pipe... If he only has three brain cells (and one is missing, and the other two went looking for it), you think he's even pulling the right dipstick? The automatics have two dipsticks on the tranny, one for the tranny fluid, the other for the front differential. If the seal between the tranny and front diff blows, then the two mix... Only other thing I coudl thing of is perhaps someone crossed one of the turbo's oil lines with the tranny cooler line, and the tranny fluid is coming out of the tranny, through the turbo, adn into the engine.. That's the only other thing I can think of... Also, the tranny only has to be about a quart low to not register on the dipstick. The "low" mark and the "full" mark I believe are one PINT where there is one QUART between the two dots on the engine dipstick..

Man that looks like something right offa Monster Garage.. So is that pointed so the carb will face forward or rearward? Would look perty phat, poppin the hood and seeing a pair of chrome stacks stickin out...

So I'm on my way to my girlfriends house today in the 85 wagon, basically giving it a road test before I trade it off for the XT. Fuel light comes on on my way over so I figure I'll stop at the Arco station and get some fuel before I go to her house since the bung munch at the Chevron wasn't interested in serving me. Anyhoo as I am rolling up to the gas station it sputters and dies, I Think nothing of it, figuring it was out of gas, since it's fuel light doesn't last as long as the one in the turbowagon. Get my gas, fires right up, drive out to the exit and it dies. Won't restart. Helpful cop helps me push it back into the gas statioin lot so I'm not blocking traffic. Pop the hood, take the air cleaner off and try starting it. Fuel starts pouring out of the carburetor. Great... So I pop the top off and take the float valve out, and wash it off in the bowl, stick it back in, shook the float to make sure it wasn't full of fuel (it wasn't).. Notice bowl is full of gunk.. So now I get to rebuild the carb like I should have when I had it off before... Oh well live and learn.. No I'm not gonna weberize it cuz I dont' have a spare Weber... Anything in particular I should pay attention to when I'm rebuilding the carb?

:slobber: man I wish I could come across something like that lol.. Nice score.. I think John in Eugene has a set of coupe lights, get ahold of him he's been lookin to clear out some stuff...

My opinion? Either flat six the beast, or use a 4.3 GM V6 or a 3.8SC out of a Thunderchicken :-) (I've always wanted to put one of those motors in a Taurus wagon, and see how many people I could piss off before the tranny blew ) I'd say get the Ford motor and stuff, and just sell it off.. or demo derby :-)

The R160s I've heard will take upwards of 300 HP.. As long as you don't change your coefficient of drag you will be okay (i.e., don't expect to put a set of Hoosiers on the back, or a load of wood in the back, and expect the diff to live).. Also, if that is a 302 with a C6, it would be a small block c6, which are hard to find, and you could sell that motor and trans off for quite a bit, adn get a 13B Turbo to stuf in there (At least keep it Japanese!)

Could have also popped a fusible link, check those. Do the indicator lights and whatnot come on with the key in the "ON" posistion? If not, check the fusible links. Best way is to physically remove them and tug on the ends gently, if they come apart on ya, they're bad. (Usually when they blow, the blow internally, and from just looking at it they look fine, but when you tug on the ends, they will come apart.) Don't be tempted to replace them with plain wire, but you can get fusible link wire and make your own.

I had an adjuster stick on me on my 85, stuck out and would not retract. I lowered the car to the ground and bumped the clutch a few times in first and reverse, and the rotational force, forced the shoes back to where they should have been after I turned the adjuster in. Worth a try...

well, those ARE off the 84, so it is possible it's tweaked Compare it with the other arm and see...

96 was the first year for AWD only. They did make an out back starting in late 95, they are easy to spot because they do not have the side cladding, just gray on the bottom portion of the body (like the 96) however, on the back the "outback" badge is just a sticker that says "OUTBACK" with a tire track in the background (Like the Impreza Outback) rather than the plastic badge the 96 and up had.

Okay, well I will try to keep weekends free dont think I am doing much in 3-4 weeks, me being unemployed and having gas prices through the roof makes it hard to go do stuff. I'll drag out my gun and some cheap paint I have lying around and get it all tuned up and ready to shoot some paint. If you want I'll send you some pics of my dad's Mustang I painted (well, prepped and primed anyway.. The person who painted it was a frickin moron and didn't sand the primer well enough and the paint flakes off it spots :-( ) and the toyota pickup I painted... :-)

I think I read average power loss through an automatic is somewhere around 30%. Your Loyale should have a locking torque converter (I am not sure if it is the self-locking type found in the older ones, or if it is a computer-controlled T/C (Probably the latter if it is a 4EAT but I am not sure if it is or not I forget when (if ever) the non-turbos got the 4EAT. Easiest way to tell is lack of a "1" or "L" position on the manual lever, and a "MANUAL" button that is pushed to hold the transmission in 1st gear. But yeah, ditch that and go with a manual and it'll be a lot better. Plus, if you do it before the slushbox bites the dust, you can sell it off to someone with a blown automatic and reclaim some of your money.

yeah, pop the hood and let it idle, and see if the fan kicks in. If it does not, check the temperature switch in the radiator for continuity (pull the 2 pin plug off of it, and jumper the harness side of it with a paperclip, if the fan comes on, replace the switch, if it does not, check to make sure that the fan has power, and the grounds are good, etc..)