4x4_Welder

Depends on what it's for- I don't have any patterns yet, but I will be starting on bumpers for my Hatch in a couple weeks. I'll then have the full dimensions and patterns, and can make more. The style I am going for on that one will be more like chef_tim's than a tube bumper, though, but a bit more form fitting and with an integrated brush guard.

I haven't installed them yet, I got big Power By Ford ones for my 72 F100, they have them in a bunch of others and plain too.

Rear seat floormats from Walmart, about $7 each. They have them in plain, and a couple logos, you'll have to cut them down to size, though, they are about 14x18"

Coat the tap with grease and the shavings will stick to it instead of falling in.

The only emissions stuff I'd ditch is the cat (only if it's bad/plugged) and the AIR system. The EGR lets you make more power if you know how to tune it right, and the PCV system keeps seals and gaskets intact, and keeps you from blowing oil on the pavement, or have it drip from the road draft tube after you shut it down. I've actually gone through quite a bit to put EGR systems onto some of the engines I've built, so I could run greater spark advance and burn leaner without damage to the engine.

Maybe I'll just have to go with a line lock on the rear with the rear disk conversion. What do you use for front calipers with this, or do you just leave the de-cabled stock calipers?

Cool, I was just thinking about that earlier. How much interference are you talking about, and is there a possibility of tweaking/shimming the bracket to clear? Or will that throw it too far out of alignment?

Ignition?

I dunno, my very first Subaru was an 89 GL wagon, didn't even get to drive it on the road. Bought with a supposed bad head gasket, pulled the heads and found both severely cracked from valve stem to valve stem. Does it actually burn coolant at all, and does it misfire?

36mm. You will also need either a puller or large brass hammer to unseat the axle from the hub. They usually fight to the very end. It is also recommended that you replace the bearings at the same time.

How do the new ones compare to the old ones? Did you have both off at the same time, and did you put them onto the proper side? Are they for a 2wd/4wd? They are for an EA82, right? Not for a hatch, brat, etc?

Having the advance come in sooner will perk up the low end a bit, but doing a dual-stage mechanical system gets a bit complex. If the advance comes in too much, too soon, you wind up with spark knock in the low end and midrange, but the power at top end will pretty much stay the same.

Ya know, GD, the more I think about it, the more I think somebody did adjust those valves on yours. Was it lacking in power at all? And was there any carbon on the valve faces? I have had valves hang open before, and it sounds like a knock if it's just open a hair. Plus, there shouldn't be two wear spots on the cam, there shouldn't be any wear at all on the base circle. Maybe on the ramps and the nose, but that big shiny scuff under the left hand lobe is all wrong-

Yup, the intake is siamesed, there is a coolant passage in there too. Look around the back side of the intake manifold to head joint, there is probably a bunch of white or green crud around it.

Intake gaskets, it runs aroung the back side of the heads along the head gasket joint, and burns off by the exhaust port.

Well, that would give you variable speed, but the stock system extends the time between sweeps, with the sweep being the same speed. It would be fairly easy to build a delay timer circuit if you have any electronics knowledge.

Oh, I did look it up, cause I remembered that I forgot to give that back to you, and it does say the same spec. Haynes and Chiltons books are just poor copies of FSMs, so I would expect any misinformation to be the same. I'm not saying that the manual is wrong, but that has got to be wrong, the minimum spec is .0003", the max is .0007", just way too little. Also listed in the manual, the range of main journal size is .0006", more than the accepted range of the bearing.

There is an intermittant relay, it's tucked up above and forward of the fuse box. Your car may or may not have the plug for it, and I -think- there is an extra wire in the harness for the motor. The relay is available from the dealer for the incredibly reasonable price of only $150 and change.

The lifters weren't spinning. It looks also like it's not really a question of whether or not it was run without oil, but how many times. As far as clearance, that has to be a typo. There is no way less than one one-thousandth of an inch can allow sufficient oil flow to prevent contact. If you drop the zero out of the metric version, it makes a good deal more sense, and puts the range at roughly .004-.009". I wouldn't run an engine with less than .002", you're just asking for a burnt bearing that way. I mean, I understand that these engines are very precisely machined, but an oil film can only go into so tight of a spot.

All that sounds pretty normal. In the oil pressure, as long as you have 10psi per 1000rpm, you're set. The temp will stay right where it needs to be at idle, and shouldn't go more than 20º more gonig down the road.

That's not a good way to gain lift, because half of off-road ability is the downtravel or droop of the suspension. Any time you have a tire off the ground, you are severly limited in traction. I see lots of guys around here with chevys and Toyotas with the torsion bars cranked up, but those trucks rarely hit the trails. If you do see them on the trails, they're the guy stuck in the easy part at the entrance to the trail with a front tire off the ground. On my hatch, at stock height, the drop off of a speed bump will extend the front suspension to max, you can feel the struts hit the limit. So, I wouldn't go that route. If you're going to do it, do it right.

Thanks guys- I'll call him tomorrow, give him this info. Sorry I'm so vague about this, what I remember about the car is a bit sketchy, I haven't been on the east coast in more than a year.

Do the blades have a sharp, straight edge, or is it jagged?

I talked with my father the other day, and he mentioned off-hand about having an issue with his (Forester?) wagon binding up and clunking in corners. I don't remember a whole lot about the car, it's been three years since I saw it, but I seem to recall it's an auto. I have read on here referances to an FWD fuse to test the center diff for torque bind, where is this in terms I can explain to a non-car guy, and what are the results desired?

Tried a search, came up with nada- Did anything actually use the 32/36 Weber, or are gaskets available from Napa? If not, anybody got a junk gasket they can send me, or scan and e-mail? I need one for a pattern.