dxrflyboy

Your inner tie rod is worn out.

The EGR system injects exhaust gas into the intake charge under cruising/light load conditions. The exhaust gas displaces and disperses the fuel/air mixture to reduce combustion temps and the formation of NOx gases. It also reduces detonation.

If you're looking for cheap, you should have no problem finding gen 1 Outback 15" alloys on Ebay for a reasonable price.

Subaru head bolts are reusable. We never replace them at the Subaru garage where I work. I guess you'll have to take your parts guy's word on the gaskets being the same as Subaru gaskets. You would have to physically compare them to know for sure. It would be nice to know who the OEMs were for overpriced Subaru parts. At least we know who makes the spark plugs (NGK)! I once installed a customer supplied aftermarket cam sensor in a Ford Taurus. The sensor was OEM with the Ford part number ground off!

Rusty Jones, the Norse god of rust!

The switch is right by the oil filter. It screws into the housing.

Here's my .02 on the platinum plug issue. Most Subarus need double platinum plugs (platinum on both the electrode and ground tang) due to the dual polarity spark (one side of the coil fires a straight polarity spark, going from the electrode to the ground tang, while the other side is reverse polarity, going from ground tang to electrode). The exception to this rule is the newer DOHC engines (turbo 4s and H6s) that are coil on plug.

Judging by the bondo on the RR wheelwell, I'd say that car was a rustbucket to begin with. The PO filled and painted over the existing rust, then sold it. So the car looked good when you bought it, but the cancer was already eating the car away. I know, it sux. Regardless of how well it was masked a few years ago, salt is what killed it.

You mean, it's politically incorrect. That makes me want to call it that, even though I question the certainty of petroleum being a "fossil" fuel.

Knock sensor codes are common with Subarus and we change quite a few knock sensors. It wouldn't surprise me if yours is NG.

A while back, I posted this link: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html I have opened a few oil filters myself and can attest to the fact that Fram filters were the poorest quality of all of them. I've never had a problem with Fram filters either, but a company that makes an inferior product does not deserve or get my business. I'd rather save a dollar at Walmart and buy a better quality Super Tech filter!

While you may have a leaking rear main seal, it's most likely a plastic cover in the bellhousing area. The replacement piece is aluminum. Unfortunately, like the rear main, the engine has to come out replace it. A wrecking yard not too far from me listed a 2.2L on Ebay with around 150K on it for $400. That should give you some idea what a used engine will cost you.

No, not a FRAM oil filter!

Try the easy things first. IIRC, the oil pressure switch is right on top or in front of the filter mounting. They can p!$$ like a racehorse sometimes.

All that emissions crap funnels into one hose that pipes into the intake below the carb. Pull that one hose off and plug the port.

Why not dump some octane booster in it before you go through all that trouble? Or was it a case of being taken for a LONG ride through her wallet?

Do the math. Gearing down to 3.9 from 3.7 is a 5% increase. All else being equal, if the engine is spinning at 3000 with the 3.7 gear, it will increase to 3150 with the 3.9. This is a small difference at cruising speed. It makes much more difference in the lower gears, giving you more torque at lower vehicle speeds for better acceleration and hill climbing.

If the bottom of the label states that the car is compliant for US and California for the model year, you should be OK.

The underhood emissions label may tell you.

The replacements are the same size and shape as the originals. They have a teflon coating on the thrust surfaces to prevent scuffing and slapping.

A Subaru wheel bearing is similar to many other FWD car wheel bearings. A shop that specializes in foreign cars is more likely to be equipped and experienced with wheel bearings that are pressed into the knuckle. But many American cars (Ford comes to mind) also use this type of bearing setup.

The air fuel ratio sensor is the first O2 sensor (upstream of the cat). The downstream O2 sensor monitors the cat efficiency.

You're probably hearing piston slap, if it quiets down after warmup. It's a common problem with all 2.5L Subaru engines. It isn't doing any serious damage and your car will still run for many miles with it. If you ever have to take your engine apart for another reason, such as head gaskets, you may want to consider installing some updated pistons (2 on the driver's side will eliminate the noise - the passenger side usually never makes noise). Subarus have good, hard iron cylinder liners, so cylinder and ring wear isn't a problem, but the pistons do scuff when they slap around in the bore.

You are putting in 4 quarts, starting the engine, running it until there is oil pressure, shutting it off, and then checking the level, correct?

Brown is a perfect color! It's the same color as the rust! White, OTOH, makes ALL the rust show!