Meeky Moose

hers my 91' legacy wagon. awd, 5-speed, 4.11 gears, just turned 100k.

when we lived in ruckersville, out in the country, we had mice issues.. cars, in the house, etc.. little bastards would run across the fireplace mantle while we were watchin a movie, or across the dash pullin out of the driveway.. we invested in a couple of free "barn cats" just put food out for them so they would stay close.. they would come in once in awhile too.. the smell of cats will keep the mice away.. mice know the smell of thier predator very well and stay away from it.. best part is $5 every couple weeks feed the Free barn cats.. and you might end up liking them eventually.. mice like to run off with the insulation thats on the bottom of the carpet, etc. they will make nests in it. you may have to pull the seats and carpet out and possible some of the side trim.

well i've yet to see anything leak, anywhere... but i'm gonna crawl around the motor today after a drive if it still doesn't have any pressure after it gets warm. thanks

hah yup, i had all the cool lifted scoobies in virginia.. wife was from oregon, so we moved back.. back to where rust free scoobies are.. now if only i could find another job so i bought this car in portland actually.. it had water and no t-stat in it. it also had a brand new radiator. i drove it the 250+ miles home without any problems. anyways, so i put a new subaru t-stat in it, drained, flushed and filled with antifreeze. never had a problem.. even with the ac on in the summer 100+ it was.. but i never ran the heater.. hopefully its a combo of bad radiator cap and me not gettin the air bubble out of it originally.. my driveway is pretty steep so when i burped it today i made sure it was on a nice incline. i have a burp kit that attaches to the radiator, so nothing gets spilled its super handy.. the shop that was doin the work to it before i bought it was not very good IMO. they did the tbelt, oil pump, etc all to a tune of $1400 10k miles before i bought it. i had to reseal the oil pump cause they didn't know how to put silicone on it when reassembling. and it had a flat o-ring :/ i don't get up to portland area very often, but being unemployed i have lots of time lol. may have to drive up sometime.

so i know about hg's leaking pushing coolant out, etc.. so my 91' legacy wagon with the 2.2l in it just turned 100k.. it finally got cold enough here to use the heater. first time since i bought the car..i flushed it and changed thermostat when i got the car.. anyways.. heater was cold at idle, warmed up when it was revved.. so i thought air bubble in heater core.. then i notice my coolant bottle was about (----------) higher than normal. i get out my fill kit, put that much coolant in the radiator.. got some air out of it.. no big deal i think.. i put the cap back on, and open the overflow bottle and watch it start bubbling.. i then think ohh great i got hg's going bad.. but then again its a 2.2 and they either blow or they don't 99% of the time.. and this only has 100k on it with all service records (clean clean clean). so later i go for a 30 min drive all over town.. car is deffinitely warm, fans working etc. (it never attempts to go over half on the gauge, never has) i get home, shut car off, pop hood, overflow is same level ( i marked it) i pop radiator cap and there is no pressure at all.. not even a hint of pressure. radiator is still full... Wierdness.. think its a bad cap? or headgaskets? i replaced the cap already just haven't driven it to warm it up again. i will tomorrow..

remember the block and heads are aluminum and thus warp under extreme heat. sometimes crack.. the last OBW i had was bought because the lady cooked it, drove it hot till it siezed on the side of the road. once it cooled off i drove it home.. i yanked it out, installed a 95' 2.2l and gave the car to my wife to drive.. never having a problem out of it. the cooked 2.5l had a cracked block due to being overheated badly.. IMO don't waste your time with that engine, get a replacement.. takes about 4 hours without air tools to swap it..

well i found mine 6 months ago or so.. 91' legacy wagon, 2.2L, 5-speed, AWD, power windows and locks, cruise control, rear defroster, ice cold ac, hot heater, 4-wheel disc brakes, no leaking sunroof. and it had 97k original when i bought it 6 months ago. SUPER low mileage, and looks like it drove off a showroom floor inside and out. and i put 05' wrx wheels on it my idea of a perfect subaru. most reliable drivetrain ever made. i've had 4 people in town want to buy it from me.. i kindly turn them down..

wow, all the fuss over whats a lift and whats not... having spent hours and hours and weekends under ea81, ea82, legacy's installing 'Lift kits" breaking rusted bolts, tapping threads, rewelding body nuts, and on down the list.. i have to say in my opinion a strut sswap is a strut swap and a lift install is a lift install.. miles of difference in skill required, tools, time, energy, etc.. but on another note, i was going to lower my legacy wagon.. since i haven't lowered one yet.. but i think i wanna do a strut swap to gain a little clearance. but then i have to figure out what to do with my 05' wrx wheels and brand new tires.. :-\

make sure your air box is closed all the way, sounds like its not..

the difference in price per tank between regular and premium is like $2 ? less than your cost for octane boost.. anytime you raise the compression in a motor you have to run higher octane fuel.. we build a 429/460 for my truck.. its actually like a 489 or something now, i forget.. its a 429 block, 460 crank, 429 pistons, rods, 460 high torque cam, and 429 dove heads.. and its bored .60 over a stock 429 is 10-1 compression, this motor is 13 or 14-1 or so now.. if we retard the timing from the stock 6degrees to 1 or 2 degrees it will run regular gas.. but it runs like a 6cyl.. if we set the timing at 6 degrees, we have to run race fuel in it to keep it from clattering.. its pushing 500+hp... the truck sits on 35's with a 6" lift, we had to put traction bars on it and huge driveshafts/ujoints.. it will roast both back tires through 1st gear into 2nd at half throttle... mustangs hate the truck, cause they always loose in a drag race against a lifted 4x4 hah.. point is, the more you customise/build an engine the more fine tuning it will take.. whether its gas, axles, whatever.. i know its not a scooby, buut.. its relavent to high compression engines.. i think $2 a fillup is peanuts to pay for having a high comp engine..

if you can't find a cente rdiff, just get a whole transmission.. it might be cheaper.. just make sure you get one with the right gear ratio, which can be checked by reading the tag on your rear differential.. i know a used 5-speed trans around here runs a couple hundred $$

i just got the car a month or so ago.. never noticed it till recently.. but then again i don't drive down the freeway very often either.. so its prolly been doing it a long long time.. it does it with the flashers too.. its like the tc solenoid is run into the blinker system.. which would make absolutely no sense..

ok, well it doesn't seem to matter if the headlights are on or off.. cycling headlights, ac, power windows, locks, etc. has no effect on the lockup. its literally only when the blinkers are used that it does it.. its not a major issue cause the torque converter only goes into lockup when the cars on the freeway.. so it has no effect when its in town driving around.. its just a funny issue that i wanted to see if anyone could figure out i guess i could rewire the TC solenoid and put it on a switch in my console.. i imagine that would fix it...

i dunno but it must be really thick if its doin what its doin...

so its s 93' impreza, 1.8l fwd auto.. nothing fancy.. all stock and factory, all numbers match, nothing has been changed or replaced besides normal maintenance stuff. 183k now for the mystery.. when cruising down the freeway, if you turn on the blinker, either way.. it will kick the torque converter in and out of lockup in sync with the blinker flashing.. any ideas?

yes thats the factory powered subwoofer.. was an option... not all cars had them... it will plug into the stock head unit without any problems and work.. the harness plugged in in the pic is the one that goes to the back of the stereo i believe.. just plug it in and see if you like it..

hit a deer this weekend, takes me out

ohh thats the other thing i forgot to mention was, its 4mph off at 30mph and at 100mph.. doesn't matter its always 4mph off..

mines just the opposite, if i wanna run 75 down the freeway i have to run 80 on my speedo

ok, so my 91' legacy just turned 100k today when it had the stock 185/70/14 tires on it the speedo was about 4mph faster than i was going according to my gps on a flat straight road.. when i put the 205/55/16's on it it was dead on with my gps.. now its got 205/50/16's on it and the speedo is back to 4mph faster than i am actually going.. it makes no sense to me, but is there a way to change the speedo gear to correct it? i know theres a difference in tire size so that would make the speedo change, but why would it be off with the stock tires on it? i know on jeeps the gear is super easy to change, just never looked at changing on it a scooby.. and my 93' impreza came with 13" tires stock... lol it goes against common knowledge.. i'll have to take a pic of the vin tag to prove it..

ok, so i went to the other les schwab, told the guy what was going on, what the other store said about torque steer and not wanting to actually do anything about it.. he laughed and said it figured.. he refunded all 4 tires. and put on a nice set of falkens.. no pull, no vibration, drives like new car. the old tires were vitrons (junk) only downside is we had to go with a 50 series instead of the 55's cause the sidewall rubbed on the rear struts a little.. so no i have to lower the car 2" to make it look proportionate.. i have 05' wrx wheels on it..

everythings good in the front end, well hell the whole car .. it was garaged and pulled behind an rv its entire life before i got it, has 98k miles on it.. so literally this is the cleanest, newest, showroom condition legacy anyone will ever see thats 20 years old, lol.. i trust the alignment, my steering wheel has always been straight.. and the front didn't need anything.. the back was out a tiny bit.. and i have the sheet with the numbers.. i'm sure its the tires.. i just have to beat them up real bad tomorrow. but i am going to the other store at the south end of town.. the one at the north end obviously doesn't know subaru's.. i think because they put 1 new one on the front with one that had 1000-1500 miles on it, the tread depth difference was enough to make it pull.. so i'll either get them to give me another new one to match the one they gave me today, or just replace all 4 with something else.. its awd it can't have mix match tread depth tires on it.. unlesss they want to buy me a transmission too..

the tire i moved to the rear was the brand new one they put on today, lol.. so in effect i have my 2 original rear tires on the front, no pull now.. and 1 original and 1 new one on the back.. they all have the right amt of air i'ma go up tomorrow and either make them give me another new one to match, so i don't have an oddball, or replace all 4 with a diff brand.. i put les schwabs branded tires on it.. which most of them are made by goodyear.. so go figure..

i thought about askin about doin just that, but i don't have the $200 price difference for the next best thing :/ on another note i moved that "new" tire to the back and the back to the front, pull is gone, drives like new now.. my only thought now is that when it comes time to rotate them am i gonna end up with it pulling one way or the other again? grrr

so i had brand new tires put on at les schwab a couple months ago.. car pulled to the right hard, so i had them do an alignment this morning.. come to find out my alignment was perfect spot on. so they said it had a bad tire and it was radial pull.. so after 6 more guys drove the car and rotated tires, they finally changed 1 tire.. now the car pulls to the left. more so when you gas it. but it does wander left all the time even coasting.. they put the new tire on the left front.. the guy then informs me due to unequal length cv axles it has torque steer.. i quickly countered that since subaru's have equal length axles. he then backtracked and said one or the other is just worn more.. i then informed him my 91' legacy has less than 100k miles on it, both axles are original. basically they didn't know what to do about it so they sent me on my unhappy way.. my pass side outer boot is torn but the axle doesn't pop or make any funky noises. and i know what torque steer feels like (just gas a honda and you'll know). so my question is, should i take it to a different les schwab and *************** , or should i start by moving that new tire to the back? (the new tire did get rid of my vibration). i know 1 new tire with old ones isn't a good thing for awd, but the old ones had 1k or less miles on them, lol.. so not much of a difference.