Meeky Moose

penzoil will cause sludge buildup, proven fact.. i always run castrol.. there again.. when i run a turbo motor 300k miles + and its still shiny new inside thats all the proof i need.. but i'm sure everyone has their own opinions.. castrol is just my choice..

i use marvel mystery oil in all of my subies. its a must imo.. i've had some new to me subaru's that tick so loud the previous owner thought it had a rod knock. after resealing oil pumps etc, and it still ticking, i change oil to 10w40 with 1/4-1/2qt of marvel mystery oil.. 500 miles later the tick is gone.. marvel mystery oil is so thin it gets in the tiny places in a lifter and cleans them out.. not to mention it lubricates quite well. last ea82 i had, was a turbo car, motor was pulled and car junked for rust at 300k+, pulled the heads for an r&r, and it still had crosshatching in the cylinders, and everything was spotless, it wasn't even the dark golden oil color, it was shiny like aluminum should be.. i attributed it to marvel mystery oil in it since it was new, every oil change..

i've had more subaru's than i can count, dones several swaps etc.. aside from the 91' legacy i have now with 99k miles (won't give it up for anything, its like new and has another 200k at least) my fav was the 99' outback.. bought it with a blown 2.5dohc. put a 95' 2.2l in it, was the best imo for comfort and all around good car.. cost me $1400 all together to put the 99' together.. the 99' was far better than the 2002' we had. the 2002 felt cheap even tho it was a limited with dual sunroofs, ;leather, etc. but it felt cheap comp;ared to the 99'. and it didn't go in the snow as good as the 99' either, something was different with the awd..

hey there, so your scoobies the one i've seen on Cl yeah i troll Cl for good deals once in awhile.. welcome to the board..

check your ac thermoswitch, everyone jumps to , ohh your ac system is screwed, when in actuality its the thermoswitch shutting the system down cause its going bad. the ac on my 91' legacy is original r-12, system is full, no leaks, etc. of course i only have 98k on it (original) the ac system shuts off and on at random, and at random speeds. my compressor will kick on and off sometimes in 1/2 second intervals makin the car shudder.. other times it will run fine for a nice long drive.. i've had to bypass the thermoswitch to have my ac work consistently. if the pressure switches are working fine, there will be no cause for alarm with the thermoswitch unhooked.. just my 2 cents..

glad this turned out good.. last one of mine that got stolen all they found was the spare tire a fender and the rear bumper

if my wife can get off work for those days we'll be bringing the hottness

anyone heading up from southern oregon?

we only moved to oregon to find the land of rust free clean scoobies.. lol. actually wish we were back in VA, miss our friends...

the hatch has been long gone.. i actually had it when i lived in charlottesville, VA tires were basically 30" equivalent..

just picked up a 93 impreza.. its in decent shape, 180k.. down sides, has the ej18, fwd, automatic.. good parts, interior is clean, body is pretty clean, paints still shiny, ac is still cold, and all the power options work.. runs and drives great.. i might be on the lookout for another spare fwd auto trans for it though.. 180k original is alot of miles and the fluid is not so red anymore..

eventually i'm going to replace it all with the 2nd gen style header and cat, but until the $4 shows up. it'll have to do.. i am going to weld in an 02 bung tho and put the sensor back in..

considering most shops will cut them out here i doubt it.. but we don't have emissions or inspections here anyways.. and yes i know it makes my car pollute more, etc.. if i had the $400 to get a header and cat from a 2nd gen legacy i would.. but when the budget is non existent i gotta do what i can...

91' legacy 2.2l, only has 1 02 sensor.. anyways, both my cats plugged up, blew one out into the muffler, to make a long story short the exhaust was toast.. so i cut out both cats, fabricated a new y-pipe without a cat, and straight piped to the factory muffler.. problem solved.. car runs super now. will actually pull hard to redline with ease and has a bit of a subaru rumble to the exhaust tone now.. overall i'm happy.. but in the process i neglected to put an 02 sensor back into the exhaust system.. its just simply unplugged and sittin on my bench.. i've put 100 miles on it so far, no adverse effects and no check engine light.. so realistically is there any reason i should put it back in? cause i really don't want to take my 1-piece exhaust off again lol..

ya know, i bought a 91' legacy once for $200 cause it died on the guy and he had to have it towed home, it sat for 6 months or so before i bought it.. i got to his house, jumped it with my outback, and drove it for 60k miles and half ways across the country and never had a problem with it..

pretty sure the clutch is good, its not discolored, and works fine when it works.. when the ac decides it doesn't wanna work the aux fan does not kick on either.. so whatever it is its shutting the whole system off.. if the clutch was bad the aux fan would still be on.... update: just heard the clicking behind the glove box about 10 times per 5 seconds.. it was kicking the ac on/off fast enough to make the car feel like it was missing.. whats behind the glove box related to the ac sensor or relay wise? i need to dive into the dash but wanna know what i'm looking for.

all metal tanks will condense (draw) moisture if they are close to empty just sitting, its better to have it full of gas.. basic physics... the fuel stabilizer will help with the fuel not seperating and (going bad) just my 2 cents

91 legacy, still r-12, only 98k miles.. crazy clean everywhere.. ac blows at 38 degrees.. when it wants to work... its full on freon too.. the problem: sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.. if it wants to work it will work fine for 100 miles or more, then when the car is shut off or the ac is just turned off, it won't turn on either at all, or if you cycle the buttons on and off enough it might come on after 5 sec or 30 min.. its totally random.. today it worked for 5 miles down the freeway and wouldn't turn on for the other 30 miles. i get home, pop the hood, check ed relays, fuses, connections, etc.. all is fine, i cycled the buttons several times, nothing. i left it running, waited a few min, cycled the buttons again and it came on. i let it run for 30 min on max, worked flawlessly.. any ideas? i do hear the switch behind the glovebox click when it shuts off, or cycles.. i dunno if that means it may be on the way out..

if you go the glue route, what works awesome is 3m weatherstrip adhesive, its in a black/red tube, looks like black silicone only stickier.. 2 lines of that at top and bottom edge of molding then pres it on, will dry overnight, will never come off again.. make sure both surfaces are clean of course.. can find it at a parts store.. prolly like $8 a tube, 1 tube will do the whole car.. hope that helps you can fill the clip holes with it to to seal them

theres alot of different ways you can go. if you want to go utilitarian, go more places than a jeep for under $800 you get 4" lift, 4-speed, dual range 4wd and a bulletproof drivetrain. got about 25mpg on freeway. or for the $1000-2000 range you get 4" lift, 5-speed, go anywhere you want, reliable, and 25+mpg. and a 60ft time of 1.2seconds (yes i have the pink from the track still) or for the $2000-$4000 range you get pros- very versatile and reliable. cons- 2.5 engines sucked imo, the 1996 only year had 2.2 engine (bulletproof) if you find one with a 2.5 blown up a 2.2 swap is bolt in (no mods needed) this one cost me $1000 blown up, $400 for the swap, great 28mpg awd car. and of course prolly the best drivetrain i can think of the 90-94 legacy wagons, 2.2l, 5-speed awd, were prolly the best combo in any scooby made (imo) they run 250k+ get 30+mpg(if taken care of) low maintenance, and still awd. of course you can spend up to $30k on a scooby, just depends on what you want.. the ones i listed are your basic lower cost vehicles that are budget conscious and i think would fit the bill of course.. note= lift kits are extra

no slop, i can shift it with 1 finger, lol any gear

yeah, i gotta put tires on it, they're about shot.. so i'll prolly put some rubber on it this time around, then when i save some $$ get some rex wheels for it.. the price of used cars now is totally rediculous.. i see ea82 wagons around here beat up with 250k original for $1500+ its kinda insane really..

nope no rust anywhere, the wheels have the original finish on them a couple tiny scratches from the hubcaps (they looked like crap imo) was only $2800 i can't help but think i stole it, but then i think its 20 years old and i paid too much for it.. not sorry at all i did have to pull out the factory stereo and re solder some connections so the front speakers would work, its fixed and back in.. i couldn't bring myself to change to aftermarket and ruin the look or clean original, and since i can plug my ipod into it it does what i want it to..

yeah it was a factory manual, all original still , it was the little rubber tab on the clutch pedal, was worn all the way through and stuck on the switch so the switch wasn't closing like it should, 2 zip ties cut off through the hole in the pedal arm and all works as it should.. i always love how easy these are to work on. Maf-- guess its original lol..

maf looks ok to me? course its been awhile since i had a legacy... Paul, yeah i lurk about sometimes this one cost me a bit, but was worth every penny i do have to figure out why the cruise doesn;t work tho, button lights up, i hear the click in the dash, and nothing else..