Meeky Moose

anyone know if an ea81 carb will fit on an ea82 intake? its a hitachi 2 barrel on both cars at the moment..

am thinkin about swapping out my ea81 carb motor for an ea82 carb motor.. anyone ever done this? will the ea81 trans bolt to the ea82 motor? can i use the ea82 clutch or do i need to stick with the ea81 clutch?

$59.95 powerline ea81 axles for me.. brand new 4wd axles at that.. get them from your local advance store now

same pugs i have.. with the 195/60/15's on mine they fit perfectly on my stock brat and do not rub anywhere.. it looks like they would but the offset is nice enough that they don't.. i have all 4 center caps though am going to tell people i got them off a ferrari.. since it has a lion for the logo on the center cap.. you'd be amazed at how many people never heard of a puegot, lol..

while at the gasstation a guy came over and talked about the brat some.. then he said he has a junkyard not far from me and has 10 of them sitting in it.. along with another 30 or so soobs from 78 to 91.. of course i promptly got his number and location.. i asked if he had any rollbars, brushgaurds, etc.. he said yeah theres 3 or 4 out there.. said one of the rollbars has shoulder belts for the jumpseats.. either way i am going to make a point of goin out there and see what he's got.. he also said they have an 82 brat with only 50k on it.. sits in the shop, mint condition.. unfortunately it was his sons before he died, so its not for sale.. at any rate, he was a real soob enthusiast from what i gathered in our 20 min conversation.. if he's got what he says he does, there should be parts for all

got my 2 1/4" exhaut on the brat, mated to a dynamax super turbo muffler.. she sound right now.. freed her up as well since its 2 1/4 from the heads back.. i also fixed the choke on the carb, it was idleing at 1500 or so rpms, now she idles at a smooth 600.. gonna rebuild the carb in the near future.. its leaking a bit, and sucking air at the base gasket.. then in a month or so the 15" pugs will get some new rubber and put on as well... she's coming along nicely

just so ya know, i've done this.. my car 88' xt6 4eat 2wd other car 88' xt6 5-speed 4wd i spanked that other car

its all in the carbs and wieght.. i had an ea81 hatch that would wrap the speedo back around to the M in mph.. on the flats with the stock carb and 220k on it.. now i had an 86' ea82 carbed wagon that would get outrun by a 50 foot schoolbus from a light.. stock carb that was junk me thinks. then my brat will run the speedo back around to the h in mph.. and its a stock carb as well.. runs ok, running to rich right now.. if you ever find a real good ea81/2 factory carb, keep it.. i've had 3 different webers cars as well and none would run as good as my old hatch and this brat with the factory carbs on them..

i do these type of swaps for side work around here, basically i charge $500 and you buy the motor 2.2 and you'll have it back in a day and a half.. in my $500 that included any normal gaskets and such, exhaust manifold, rear main, etc.. too bad you weren't closer.. the last one i did the guy got a 95' 2.2 from a legacy in a junkyard for $375.. it didn't leak surprizingly, so all i had to change was the rear main and exhaust gaskets.. in it went.. garanteed cheaper than any shop personally i'd say do the swap, it will last you alot longer.. the 2.5's were prone to piston slap when cold as well..

i had this problem with my 88 dl when i got it.. it was gettin spark and fuel but not starting.. i finally moved all the plug wires 1 place to the left on the cap and she runs perfect.. give that a shot if you had them all off and are now back on acording to the book.. now i don't know why i had to move mine around like that since the cap is numbered for where the #1 wire goes, but i know the car gets 34mpg and the timing is set dead on with a light..

its an 85'.. the ea82 pipe i have was lengthened at the head a little fir a lift.. i was worried about the width.. but if it'll bolt on then i can manage with the rest i'm sure thanks

will a y-pipe from a ea82 bolt onto an ea81?

the non turbo exhaust manifold gaskets are paper with the metal ring , correct? now the good ones are the turbo exhaust manifold gaskets which are made like a headgasket.. just order some for like a 88 gl-10 turbo wagon or something.. thats what i do they last alot longer hehe or if you wanna use a sealant get some fujibond from the dealer.. i know it'll hold up to just about anything, i used fujibond once for a basegasket on a carb cause i couldn't get a new one in a pinch, that was almost a year ago and the car still has fujibond in place of the basegasket, hehe.. onl;y thing is you gotta heat the fujibond up to get it to cure all the way, it won't just cure sitting there

well the brat is pretty much prepped as it is, no trim, chrome, nothing.. half the body has been sanded and primed already.. if i keep the brat, this spring / summer when its on the lift its getting a ton of undercoating under it as well.. its that or i get the rollon stuff from work, have it painted ($300 special from a friend) then rollon a bedliner and put it back together.. i'm basically lookin at the project as a low to no cost situation as well as far as the paint / liner goes hehe.. thanks for the input all

well i was thinkin about doing something that noone has ever done to thier soob before.. it'll be the first.. my new brat has had some body work done to it already so its got primer patches all over the place.. there is very little rust that needs to be fixed.. now what i was thinking was since its gonna need a piant job, all the trim put back on after the rest of the body work and theres a local line-x place here (rhinoliner). i was thinking why not just have them line-x the hole brat? in black of course.. then i can trim and put the chrome and everything else back on it.. i see some major benefits in doing this too.. 1. it will never rust again, 2. it cannot be scratched, 3 i will never have to wax it, 4 i can go through the woods to grandmas house and not mess up my new paint job.. prolly many more reasons too, lol.. what do ya'll think?

there are the marks for TDC (0) (10) and (20) then oposite of them on the other side of the flywheel there are 3 marks like | | | gonna look just like that. you start by setting the crank at the middle of those marks, then do your belts.. if you set them by the 0 10 or 20 it will not run right. although i think FBH is onto something.. i was referring to a 5-speed car.. never set the timing on an auto before.. so i'm not sure if the pressure plate has the same marks, or if you gotta do it by the front crank pulley.. if doing it by the front crank pulley, there will be one | that represents where to set the timing after the belts are on by adjusting the distributor. there should still be the same | | | on it to start from..

i've always pulled the ball joint out when doing my axles.. when you mess with the strut by taking it off the hub it messes with the alignment as well.. the frozen caster mainly.. thats why when you replace struts you almost always have to do an alignment afterwards now you can unbolt it from the body and not hurt the alignment.. i had a ball joint stuck in my DL wagon, after breaking my hammer, pry bar and an 8lb sledge the damn thing finally came out.. i did have to buy a new one tho.. its funny how they let you know when they need changed like that.. wait till you put an axle in something and have to pull it a month later and the stupid thing is stuck on the trans.. thats another story though. seriously though, go get you a balljoint fork from the parts store.. heck some parts places loan them out.. it'll make your headache go away.. really..

just from my experience, valve guides/seals and/or rings will cause smoking and the like at low rpm's / idle.. ever see a dodge caravan smoke when takin off at a light? the valve guides fall down in the heads and cause that.. anyways, turbo's usually don't leak unless they are spooled up.. at idle / low rpm's that turbo isn't doing anything but looking nice under the hood.. i had a turbo last 297k on a turbo wagon.. the turbo is the one on my rx wagon now.. still doesn't leak or have any blowby whatsoever.. these little IHI turbo's are tough.. right now mines runnin 10psi too

having built a couple of these myself and numerous timing belt changes on the side of the road and off.. it really sounds like a timing issue... you said 1/4 turn past tdc.. if i recall correctly the 3 marks used to set the timing are about oposite of the timing marks on the flywheel, hence one half turn to find them.. an out of time engine will do just what you have described.. the blue smoke is usually a sign of bad rings, but if its out of time on that side then i would think its going to smoke a little anyways since the valves are opening and closing at the wrong times, hence the low compression also.. heh wait till you mod a flywheel so far that there are no more timing marks, rofl, then it gets real fun..

none of the hitachi ea81 carbs ever run the same as the next.. i've had too many ea81 cars to know.. example.. 89'gl ea81 4wd hatch all original, 140 something on the odo, would bury the spedo down to the M in MPH on the flats. got 34 mpg and ran flawlessly.. hell the guy i sold it is still runnin around in it, its been to the west coast, all up and down the east coast etc in the last 2 years that he has had it.. its driven through a couple deer, ditches and a saturn i think.. still drives it, changes the oil and puts gas in it, thats it.. now we took a 1 barrel setup off a friends ea81 2wd hatch and put an ea82 carb on it.. (carb condition was unknown) thats stupid thing could barely run 65 and couldn't get out of its own way if it wanted too. but it got 30 mpg.. lol the brat i just got is different than both of the above.. she'll run 85 with the 15" pugs on it, dunno about gas mileage yet, and when you mash down on it, the secondary opens and it lets you know with a cone like roar like most hondas, lol.. it almost seems as if the secondary is opening with the throttle regarless of vacuum.. (hitachis have vacuum operated secondaries) i dunno, i just know she runs good and there been a couple i have had that gave me ************ like yours is giving you.. so i ripped it off, de-emissioned it and slapped a weber on it, and they'd run like they should.. note: a weber will give you more grunt off the line and midrange power, but i have yet to have any of my webered cars have a higher top end or speed than a couple of my factoy hitachi cars.. (maybe thats cause my webered ones were lifted? dunno.. just my experience with webering a soob..

when i get the brat put back together, i might be talkin with ya bout one with the extra bar on it like adams. we hit deer all the time around here, lol.. don't want to mangle a straight brat..

LOL there is a story behind my DL.. it was bought by the previous owner somwhere around 93 or 4.. the people never registered it or put it in thier name.. now get this.. they bought it as a FARM USE vehicle to use on thier farm, lol.. they used it for a few years beating around the farm, then it got parked till i got it.. lol i am still kinda amazed its pretty much rust free and runs as good as it does

88' DL 2wd 5-speed.. 151k... gone 389 miles and still got a 1/4 tank and this was a car that sat since 97' and was returned to service here recently.. best of all, it was a freebie.. ohh and no rust either

heh, yeah i've found alot of stuff in junkyard cars.. toolkits, repair manuals, tools.. ohh found a real handyman jack once, just needed new pins, lol.. it came out of an old forest service blazer.. then at the grocery store i found a $20 bill in the self checkouts change slot.. heh..

well i;m certain its fixed now.. is gettin a solid 17mpg around town.. and for this setup i think thats prolly all i'm gonna get outa it.. haven't been on a long trip but it should be better cause at 65 mph it'll acctually cruise now without the turbo bein spooled.. as for the timing i got the old dl up to the house, checked its timing (this is assuming the disty is in correctly. it was set at about 23 degrees.. so i went over to the turbo wagon and moved the disty to the same spot in the adjustment range.. and seems to have fixed the issue with the timing.. running awsome now and not super horid on gas.. cars been alot of fun in this damned ice storm now to wire up the diff lock and i'll be set