Meeky Moose

all else fails, make them give you a new car

i've seen a wrx with the pass side belt off about 4 teeth cause those same symptoms. and the compression was good on all 4 cylinders, it was just misfireing on 1 and 3... check the timing belts, it would be wierd if one did slip at that low mileage but it can happen..

have the transmission serviced and flushed.. IE, change the filter and fluid. should help with your problem.. i'm gettin about 310 miles to a tank in my outback

i've used castrol high mileage in my honda prelude's 2.1L engine.. it helped with the bad valve seals quite a bit, doesn't leave as much black carbon on the back, etc.. never tried it in a soob..

yeah, i have the 2.5 sittin here.. beings i have done 3 swaps on these late 90's 2.5 cars i know thier symptoms when they blow a head gasket or crack something.. this engine i have never had any of those symptoms, it was just loosing AF.. you could smell it from under the hood too.. it never steamed, never overheated, and the radiator/overflow tank was clean as a whip when i pulled the motor out.. the previous owner drove it right up till it started using AF. then he took it to a shop and a shop said it had a "bad headgasket cause they all do" so he wanted it either replaced or changed.. i didn't ask any questions, i just swapped the motor for him.. i did drive his outback a little before i pulled the 2.5.. it didn't miss or have any lack of power, no steam out the tailpipe and the overflow tank wasn't filling up... hell it peeled out in the gravel driveway when i stomped on it, and it as automatic.. after i did the 2.2L engine swap i drove the car about 110 miles back to his place and when i got there i smelled antifreeze, so i checked and the little air bleeder inline in the heater hose was leaking.. so obviously this problem was there before i did the swap.. thats what makes me think this 2.5 is a good engine and the heater hose was leaking.. at anyrate i just need to get it out of my way.. i obviously can't ship a complete engine either.. i'm thinkin $300 OBO for the motor.. if ya have room i also have my 99' 2.5 pieces you can have also.. good heads, cams, intake, etc.. i threw that block away this morning cause it was cracked. or if you can get it to my place i'll trade ya my 86 wagon for it

personally any car with a plastic intake can take a flying leap.. seen too many fords, dodges, etc with those plastic intakes, suck the gaskets around 60k miles.. if its got a plastic intake the B9 can take a flying leap too.. just my .02

well a friend got 2 88' Justy's for $100, so we got one home (with no rear wheel bearing, that was fun on a dolly) then on the way back up to get the 2nd one my wagon tossed the drivers side t-belt off.. so there we are on a 2 lane no line backroad and i can't move the car.. luckily we were off the side in simeones wide driveway, lol.. i call teh wife had her bring me 2 new t-belts cause i thought 1 snapped, i get the car apart and come to find that the tensioner bolt came loose and took the threads with it thus lettin the belt jump about 15 teeth or more.. well she got me the belts, i put a longer bolt in the hole that stripped out, got her all put back together then towed teh 2nd justy home, so its been a long long day.. whats going to be the easiest way to "fix" the threads in the block for the tensioner bolt? i don't like the fact that 2 of them are "just snug" and not tight like they should be.. i thought about puttin a helicoil in it but then i'd have to pull the motor and thats something i don't want to do since i just put the damned thing in there.. Any ideas?

weber carbs are emmisions legal in most states... I get 27 mpg with a weber on my 86' wagon.. runs great, no smelly fumes, etc.. no emmisions test here tho.. personally i prefer a well tuned weber over that SPFI junk anyday, unless i had a 4x4 only rig, then the spfi would be nicer..

if it got a newly rebuilt motor and only got driven 3k the rings prolly never had time to seat properly.. as with any new motor they have a break in period as well as change the oil every 500 miles for the first 3k or so, something i would guess the guy never did.. i'd also guess that once you put another 5k on it it'll be fine, that should be plenty to get those rings to seat right..

for a troubleshooting tip, make sure the AC is off, fill the radiator and the overflow tank (tank to the full mark, run the car sitting in a spot that doesn't have any puddle on the ground. don't drive it, just let her idle with the heat on. after it reaches normal temp give her a couple revs if you don't see coolant leaking, keep an eye out for any leaks. if you don't see any anywhere and the temp is good, keep an eye on the overflow tank and see if it starts filling up witth coolant when the temp gauge is normal. if it does it could be a possible headgasket leak.. also while its running when it gets to narmal temp, the electric fan should come on for a few minutes or less.. if it comes on and stays on when the car is sitting there idleing you prolly have a plugged radiator.. (the fan can't cool the coolant down thats why it would come on and stay on.) you might want to change the thermostat if it hasn't been changed in awhile, i recomend one from the dealer only. the thermostat housing is connected to the top radiator hose on teh passenger side of the engine. its right on top, 2 bolts and 10 minutes and its changed, very straight forward and simple.

when i did my engine swap i forgot to plug mine back in, then i couldn't find the damn wire until igot under it and found it wedged down in the steering rack, lol.. at any rate, i bet he just forgot to plug it back in.

1. its a form of vacuum canister, it either sucks or blows but i don't remember which.. there is no replacement for it, nor should you have to replace it. 2. previous post is right. 3. this was where the cruise control unit would plug in if the car was so equipped..

exact same thing mine was doing.. ended up being a cracked block, had to swap the motor

i always thought the loyales were spfi (little black boot running to the airbox right off the top of what looks like a carb) at any rate, almost every ea82 subaru i have ever had has always had a little shake to it when idleing. adjust your idle down to 750 or so and see if that fixes it, i had one once that would "shake" when it idled at 900 rpm's or so, but at 700-750 it was smooth..

best place to sell that one for the west coasters is here on this message board in the marketplace, i'm sure someone would buy it, thats and awsome ride there.. as far as fixing it, just so its driveable i'd say get a stock engine for $100 or so, (i know a board member on teh west coast has to have a good one sitting in thier shed somewhere) then buy the beer and gas money and someone out there might help ya put it in.. (yes you'd have to get greasy too) least that way its running and driving, even though it might be a dog on hills.. if you were out here on the east coast i'd buy it fer sure, or else help ya fix it (i have lots of motors laying around) as far as a engine conversion goes, i'd use the ea82 carbed engine with a weber carb on it.. would give you the power you'd need and it'd be fairly straight forward.. good luck and nice ride hope it goes to a good home and not a junkyard..

blew out a front axle tonight, the inner boot tore clean off then it imploded.. all while driving down the highway.. anyways, i removed the axle shaft from the ends , left the ends on the trans, and in the hub of course. then drove home in 4high (RWD style) just wondering if this is gonna trash my trans and/or diff? gonna be a week or so before i can afford to buy an axle for it.. and i drive it about 150 miles a day 6 days a week.. any words of wisdom on this subject?

go get a tube of fujibond from the dealer.. make sure both surfaces are free of oil. put a nice bead on there and put it back together, fujibond gets hard as its heated up. works good to stop annoying leaks like that.

stopping was not really an issue, the 4 wheel disc on my wagon helped with that alot.. my buddy is thinking about snagging a white 86 4wd gl from the junkyard and converting the 2wd red dl to 4wd.. i figure the white one has most likely got a good drivetrain cause its only got like 100k on it, its just a rustbucket.

nice car eh? once you do the engine swap you'll like it even more, just knowing your not going to have a headgasket blow..

the one thing i want for my soob that is not available, or i can't find at least, is a brush gaurd the does not require removing the stock bumper. I want something that will protect the front of my car, (from deer for example) something like you would see on a toyota 4-runner only in a flat black. would have to be semi light wieght too, adding 200lbs to the front of my car is not what i have in mind.. If it had a steel mounting point and center braces in front of the grill, then aluminum outer frame that goes around the headlights, and aluminum tubes between the center bars in front of the grill. then shipped in the raw so i could paint it, or you could offer colors, etc.. thats what i want personally.. since i have no interest in lifting my soob.. can you help i wonder?

picked up an 88' 2wd 5-speed DL wagon today.. towed her home about 100 miles.. was a freebie that sat for 3 years.. (tires were flat and sunk 6 inches into the ground) after airing up the tires and getting it on the dolly we towed it home.. after we got it home we got it started with some brake clean and a good battery, she smoked like it had a bad headgasket for about an hour... but we changed the oil and its not using coolant and it quit smoking.. only thing i can figure is that there was a rats nest in the exhaust cause it smelled like burning foam/wood chips.. eventually she quit smoking, temp gauge ran just above half (the electric fan was kicking on and off) so some radiator flush and a new thermostat is in order. she needs some new wires and plugs and some filters.. otherwise she runs good, is spotless inside, the car is 98% rust free, the only rust is the top of the rear fender wells, which is just surface rust anyways.. First pic, got the car loaded behind my 86' wagon (this is the silver 100% rust free wagon i posted for sale a week or so ago) 2nd pic is my buddy posing with his new soob 3rd pic, half ways home, just had to stop for lunch. my silver wagon (webered 86' 5-speed dual range 4wd GL wagon towed this car 65-75 mph for about 70 miles today, never once got above half on the temp gauge or had any problems at all. and the best part, i got 21mpg towing my wieght + the 500 or so the dolly wieghs.. then later in the day while we had the dolly i had to move a friends truck.. late 80's 4wd chevy s-10 truck.. has a 4.3 v6 and a ton of body parts in teh back.. towed this thing about 20 miles today... my wagon temp gauge never got above half, and i could run 55-60 mph with 5000lbs on behind.. now thats what i call a real wagon.. i did get a bunch of looks from people, along with a thunbs up from a guy in a toyota, lol..

clutch fan will sound like that at 2500+ rpm's the power steering will too, check the fluid..

i vote for silverstars... put them in all my cars when i run out of spare freebie bulbs i snag at junkyards, lol.. of course in my prelude i had to buy the sealed beam silver stars.. worth the extra $4.00 and since i deliver pizza mostly at night i need the brightest light i can get..

well, all i can say (not getting too technical) is that my personal experience with them has always been, rip them off, fab a plate, and block it off. and every time i do it, the car magically runs stronger and smoother. ohh and my temp gauge always ride at the same place it did beforehand 1/4 on the guage. i've never had an issue with excessive carbon or oil burning.. got about 15k on this engine with the egr blocked, no issues yet..

small tip for bleeding brakes by yourself.. take one of those 1 way vacuum valves, put it inline in a rubber vacuum hose (slide the hose onto the brake bleeder, open bleeder, get in the car and pump the pedal, the 1 way valve will keep the brake system from sucking air, but yet it will let the air out make sure you close the bleeder before removing the hose.. also keep an eye on the brake fluid, it gets used up real fast wish i was closer, i'd come help ya.. hate to see someone get down on thier soob like that.. ohh you should have one of those 1 way vacuum valves somewhere on your motoe, aong with some vacuum hose if you gotta use it, use it, then wash and put it back when your done