Meeky Moose

last call i got, they had just got on 81 in VA, told him he could stop in even though it would be about midnight, but he opted to drive through.. Go man go..

looks like a pontiac vibe with a chrysler sebring front end.. bleh..

i'm close to charlottesville, 81 or 64 here in VA if ya need to stop for a rest, need help/repairs, hatever it may be gimme a ring, 434-466-8811

when i was in high school, we had a car bashing day.. 1 car, the entire 200 kids, and your choice of aluminum bat, 8 lb sledge, or 2x4 anyways, i tool the 8lb sledge, to that poor 80's honda accord, lol.. wasn't really much left of it by the time the school was done..

my 99' outback is just the oposite.. i bought it used but lemme tell you how it was abused by the original owner. nothing was ever done to the car, inside was never cleaned or even vacuumed, she hauled hay and prolly goats in it, the paint is faded and oxidized from not being washed/waxed (only a 6 year old car) when it started with the overheating problem, she drove it until it died on teh side of the road and would not run anymore. transmission, well lets say the fluid was burnt, crispy, and brown. so you know it had never been changed. now, the car had 134 k on it when i got it.. i put another motor in it, changed the trans fluid (sometimes not good to flush them if its never been changed, breaks stuff loose thats holding it together) and the car runs and drives great. (sometimes it will downshift on deceleration but only when cold) my point being, my outback only had oil changed done to it and thats it until i got it, and the tranny is still original.. sure i had to swap an engine, but i knew about the 2.5 headgasket issue, besides it doesn't surprise me the way mine was abused. wuold i buy another one, Hell yeah..

do like i did with my 99' outback. get yourself a used 2.2 out of a 95' subaru, everything bolts up and plugs, in. with the exception of a charcoal canister which the outbacks do not have. so i capped those lines off. car runs great no check engine light and i see 25+ mpg in town with the 2.2 even getting a 2.2 from emily will save you a grand.. just my suggestion.

so i turn around in the parking lot to get out, and the drivers side outer joint decided to explode.. it all stayed in the boot it just wouldn't move, lol.. so after feeling the boot and figureing outwhat it did i put it in 4wd and drove home (love that about soobs) no idea why it did it, wasn't makin any popping sounds, etc, just bam exploded.. anyways, i get a new axle, put it in this morning and the damn thing wouldn't idle. idled like it had a huge cam in it.. but acceleration was better, seemed like the secondary was opening more or something, and its got some massive torque pull to the right.. guess i needa change the pass side axle to fix that.. and it blew an exhaust manifold gasket again. i needa retap the holes and put some bigger bolts in it.. then on the way home from the parts place (core return) it decides it wants to idle right again.. go figure..

someone here in my neck of the woods bought a brand new pt cruiser. i mean had like 2 miles on it. the car is using 2 quarts of oil between changes, and dodge will not warranty it because its not excessive. they say its not excessive unless it uses 3 quarts or more between changes.. lol knew there was a reason why i didn't like chrysler products.. i bet the guy just didn't get it topped off all the way.. sounds like he may have filled it up, and let it go, without starting it to fill the oil filter, then top it off..

maybe she just forgot to go to sunday mass, lol.. too bad something like that doesn't happen to drunk drivers.. i think the roads would be safer if it would.

i just glued all the trim back on my 85' used a clear 3m adhesive, came in a red tube. you MUST scrape as much of the old stuff off with a razorblade as possible, then clean both surfaces with rubbing alcohol. apply the glue to the molding side heavily. press it onto the car as hard as possible, then peel it back off real fast. hold it for about 15-30 seconds, then press it back on the car, make sure you press real hard (the door may buckle a little but it pops back out) once it sticks just let it sit for a couple hours and your good to go.. i can blast mine at the carwash and it doesn't even budge.. prolly even more solid than they were factory, lol.. BTW i used a hole tube on 4 pieces of molding. so it takes alot. Scraping and cleaning the surfaces with rubbing alcohol is the key.

the hose that was clogged was the fuel return line (checked my FSM i forgot i had, lol) wonder if this was my problem, guess i'll see tonight and btw, i cut the hose open to find a small round brass fitting with what looked like heatshrink inside it.. go figure how that got there..

excessive brake pad wear, hot lug nuts/wheel on one side.. are the brake pads on that side worm out more than the other side? if so you prolly got a stuck caliper

well, i went out this morning, and changed all the fuel lines.. only found 1 that was plugged, it was the one right above the main fuel line for the carb, i guess its a return line, dunno. any ideas what it is and what its for? also bought a new acell coil and redid all the end connectors to the coil just as a precaution.. seems to run good, but it always has until the problem kicks in.. update too, after last nights little breakdown i parked it, went to the parts store this morning and it ran great, the hole way.. and all it did was sit there overnight.. go figure huh..

ok its an 86 gl wagon, carbed with factory rebuilt carb on it. i can be driving along, wether it be a half tank of gas, or 2 tanks of gas. doesn't have a set time for problems to occur, it just all of a sudden starts chugging like its running out of gas. i can let it idle for a min or 2 and it'll run great until it "runs out of gas" anyways, i've changed the fuel filter 3 times, the fuel pump twice (once of which i took one of my parts car, which i drove for a long time so i know it was good) i've also changed the coil twice. now when i change the coil it'll run for about half a night delivery driving (100 miles) before it does it. changing the fuel filter and pump does not make it any better, so i've ruled those out. changing the coil is the only thing that makes a difference. but i know i don't have 3 bad coils, on top of that, i reused the 1st one from the time the car left me sitting on the side of the road. put it back on and whala fixed for about 70 miles, then bam. back it comes. i can ulso just go wiggle the coil wires a little and it'll run for a couple miles, instead of sitting there dead. i don't know if the fuel pump is preriodically loosing signal to pump and its shutting off or i have some wires that are old and brittle, bad disty, i have no clue at this point. and the damn thing will sit there and idle for 2 days straight (done that) without a problem, but if you drive it, 2 iles she'll die.. so i can't really check to see if its getting fuel from the pump when it acts up because it wopn't act up at idle, lol.. and i can;t drive down the road and pull the fuel line off when it acts up. where does the fuel pump get its signal from? tempted to put in on a toggle switch like everything else, lol.. gonna look lie a space shuttle soon (click,click,click, its a go, fire her up) EDIT: one other thing, just before it starts to cut out the lifter ping bad, like a real lean condition would make an engine do.

well dupont no.7 is a metal cleaning compound, its not sold in walmart, or your big chain stores.. you can find it in grocery stores only. food lion, safeway, and a few others.. maybe albertsons for you west coasters.. in a green and white metal tub.. has kerosene in it, so it cleans everything up real nice.. then the wax just finishes it off.. Jay: look at the pics again already put the trim back on nieghbor had some wicked glue just for that, lol 15 min and it was a permanent bond. i'll pm you about the motorhome. ohh i used the clutch on the spare engine, before it wnt in, i pulled it off and checked it, the pressure plate still had the circular grooves in it from when it was made.. clutch disc was thicker than the other one also.. they were made a little different in design but it works as it should. also figured out the roof "booming" i need to put the center rails back on for the factory roof rack, theres no support there without them, i can duplicate the same "booming" just by cranking my stereo up, with the rack off it.. so tis not the rack..

well the ones on it now are a 195/65/14 need to go up to a 75 series to fill it in better i think. i don't wanna go to big cause it'll loose too much power.. as she sits now she'll run 100mph down the road at close to 5k rpms for about 20 miles and not even move the temp gauge, heh, just hums along.. i found this out when i had to take my manager to the ER the other night, lol.. also caught a foot of air when i took the offramp, that was fun

this is the 85' gl lifted wagon i got a couple weeks ago, after an engine swap, and alot of TLC she came out pretty good. had to Dupont no.7 the hole car, then wax it.. turned that old oxidized paint job into a new one..

heres my lifted wagon with lights on the bumper.. got these "driving" lights at advance for $18.. they use a 55 watt h3 bulb.. damn near brighter than the headlights, lol.. work great for delivery driving, since i can aim them out to the sides a bit and see mailboxes easier..

if you do replace the factory tweeters, i'm interested in the factory ones for the wifes outback

my 2.2 converted 99' outback is gettin about 25mpg in town.. don't know whaty freeway is since we haven't been on any long trips. is alright in my book considering how much the car wieghs..

what ya tryin to sell it for? personally i would find another mechanic.. he doesn't sound too good.. as a service writer, if the customer ever had any doubt about what i was saying, i'd bring them back in the shop and show them thier problems.. dones this with many subaru head gasket jobs.. the customer sees the leak, the customer 9 times out of 10 fixes the leak. btw wrist pins can slap for over 100k.. my yota did and its still running..

was only about 1/4 mile from my house though, lol.. started coughing, sputtering, then it would die.. would start back up, run for about 5 feet and die.. then it finally just wouldn't start at all.. so i changed the fuel filter (2nd time in 2 tanks of gas) still no go. so i swapped out the fuel pump. still no go.. bad part was, you could crank it and if you pumped the hell outa it it would try to start.. so i was thin king fuel related.. but i was gettin plenty of fuel.. then i swapped out the MSD blaster coil with a stock one.. fired right up, and carried my happy arse home.. this is the first subie i have ever had that left me on the side of the road like that.. was a little dissapointed. lol..

he's pickin up my SVX in Ruckersville, VA..

no power, here, love it.. besides its less of a drag on my old carbed ea82, and i get a small upper body workout when driving.. what more could ya ask for, lol

after my 99' ouback sat for a couple months while i got all the stuff together to put an engine it. i drove it for a tank of gas before i gave it to the wife. just to make sure everything was ok) well i noticed the right rear was squeeling when i let off the brakes, lol.. so i checked it and that wheel was hot compared to the others. so i pulled the wheel, took the caliper off, lubed all the slides,backs of the pads, you name it with dielectric grease.. (does not melt unless its really really hot) i just did the rear and that solved the sticking problem, although it still feels like the car has alot of rolling resistance, but i attribute that to the automatic tranny.. the first tank of gas with the sticking caliper i got about 200 miles outa the tank.. now were up to 260 and still got a hair under a 1/4 tank.. so i'd say thats a good improvement