Meeky Moose

2.2's do not blow head gaskets and are known as the most reliable subaru engine

update, i still get about 25 in town in the 2.2L converted outback.. went to the coast a couple weeks ago and got 29mpg with the cruise set on 80mph.. not too shabby

yeah yea, lol:-p ok fat pill it is..

or you could go with an xt6 clutch

hmm, never heard of oiling my car on the exterior...

tried this on an 83 2wd hatch the other day, the ea82 calipers will not bolt to the ea81 hubs.. sux... so you'd have to change the hubs, rotors, calipers and pads, to get ea82 brakes on an ea81

cause i saw the nicest mint dark brown 1st gen soob wagon roll through the parking lot.. looked like it was showroom condition.. at first i thoguht it was you, but the guy pulled into bb&t then drove off.. first time i've seen that soob..

just went through this on my wagon.. lol symptoms exactly the same.. if it got up to 3/4 i could shut the car off and just leave the fan run and it still took over an hour to get it to cool off.. the radiator was holding the heat and not lettin it go.. i swapped out the radiator with a good one and bam, my car now runs at 1/4 on the gauge, electric fan never comes on unless i sit at a light, then its on for 1 min 14 sec. and shuts off.. ohh, i even towed another soobie 17 miles in 95 degree weather and never got my temp gauge over half... and that was towing up/down hills about 30-40 mph.. i'd say change the radiator and flush out the heater core while your at it, a partially plugged heater core will cause temp issues too..

heh, Big brown takes out ole white..

alright, i have done this swap.. in my 99' outback.. you need a 95' model year 2.2L engine, they were the only ones that had the dual exhaust ports (1 hole = single port, 2 holes = dual port) you will need the 2.2L intake manifold, the 2.5L intake will not fit. you use the 2.5L transmission, flex plate and torque converter. put it all on the 2.2L engine and its plug and play. everything bolts up with the exception of the power steering line support bracket (on the 2.5L only) you leave the stock 2.5L ecm in the car, i never had to mess with that.. it will run the 2.2L even though the 2.2 is a single overhead cam. i've got ab out 6k miles on mine now since its been converted.. no problems as of yet.. ohh you will either need to get a charcoal canister or just cap off the lines on the 2.2L intake. the 2.5L never had a charcoal canister.. happy converting

alright, let me know what day and i'll be there with the ole wagon.. i take it you still live in the same place?

what happens is the air bubbles get pumped into the cooling system, which in turn pushed the antifreeze out of the coolant resivoir, when the coolant gets low enough it fills the heater core with and air pocket, then the car overheats..

just to let ya know, my 99' outback was in 3 different shops for overheating problems.. they replaced everything, radiator, thermostat, at one point they left the thermostat out.. then i bought the car cause it got overheated so many times it cracked the block and siezed the motor.. i ended up replacing the hole engine... just to save yourself a headache and alot of money.. ($1500 headgasket replacement vs. $3000 in a new engine) i all of the engine swapping myself, and i put in a 2.2L instead of a 2.5L so i don't have to worry ab out the headgasket issue ever again..

oooo... hmmm.. hey Scott, can i come get it? i'll bring my fat buddy to lift it

well headgaskets on early 2.5's blow internally and leak compression into the cooling system.. they usually loose compresion on one cylinder when this happens.. (mine lost #2) anyways.. do yourself a favor and find a 2.2L engine out of a 95" subaru and drop it in.. you'll need the complete motor.. it bolts right up, you use the 2.5 flex plate and torque converter the rest is plug and play.. you'll have a small loss in power (not really noticeable) but gain the reliability of a 2.2L (they run 300k with proper maintenance just fine) been there done it

well, the wife wants to trade in the outback for a tribeca... personally i think the 5 seater version would suit us great.. the H6 engines are extremely reliable and are smooth. i would however have to get over the grill, lol.. kids would love the dvd player and it has to be safe with all the safety features it has. as far as price goes, quit moaning, the 94' SVX i had had a original window sticker price of $35K and that was in 1994' so the tribecas price is not that bad in the grand scheme of things.. Have you ever priced a new VDC outback? they are close to 30K also.. as for me i'll still continue to drive my old 86' wagon and be happy.. it fits my lifesytle and needs just fine.. as for headgaskets get over it, alot of other cars blow headgaskets and thier manufacturer's deal with it the same way.. off the top of my head, dodge neons blow headgaskets at about the same rate as subaru's 2.5's.. gm 3.1 and 3.5 engines blow intake manifold gaskets at 60-80k miles, most of fords suv's burn brakes like once a year.. you think those people are happy when they get a $1400 bill to fix an intake gasket, or have an $600 brake job every year? prolly not.. we've been happy with our 99' outback.. paid $1000 for it with a blown motor, put a 2.2 in it and its not once given us any other problems.. so for about $1400 we got a nice car :-p that i can work on myself....

a friends hatch did that when we were putting the carb on it... then it got a real real loud tick of death and a wicked miss at idle.. my first thought was how? since it is NOT a hydraulic lifter engine.. so i figured out which side was makin the noies and pulled the valve cover.. the #4 exhaust valve adjuster had come loose.. i mean so loose i could stick my thumb between it and the valve.. anyways, tightened it up and she runs good again.. car only had 16k original miles and is an 83.. i have seen engines "sweat" inside the valve covers before.. if its not turning your oil into milk its prolly not a leak.. i would pull both valve covers and check the adjustments on the valve train before i went further.. you might just find one that came loose like i did..

an ea82 engine with a weber carb that is reversed 180 ? kinda wanted a picture so i can see what i'm going to get myself into trying to get my ac compressor to fit...

personally i think those are a good idea... having 2 kids myself i know how much of a PITA it is to get the seatbelts tight enough.. then theres is NO place to hook the extra safety strap in the older wagons (85-87 or so)

i'd suggest checking / adjusting the 4wd shifter linkage, also check it to see if you bent it.. if its bent or out of adjustment it won't engage into 2h,4h or 4L. it kinda sits between gears and grinds.. just as you said yours is doing i've swapped many ea81's , 2's, and ej engines and never had a problem like that.

convert it to a 2.2L engine and you'll be in good shape for alot of years to come.. did it to my 99' outback.

well, if i turn the carb 180, then i run into the throttle cable problem... the part of the weber that is in the way of the ac compressor is the float bowl/fuel intake line.. as it is now the hood barely closes, lol has like 1/2" clearance between the hood and the air filter. so i can't space it..

heh, havin a honda in the family is not bad.. wife drives a 99 outback, i have an 86' gl wagon, and i drive the 90' honda prelude for work.. hondas are good vehicles and have thier place is certain situations..

bump, still need help :/

done this before.. took a torch to the bolt, cut the head off and got it out.. got a new smaller bolt, slid a piece of rubber fuel line over it. made sure it fit tight in the hole. put a nut on the other side of it and put it back together.. stiffenes the shifter up real nice. hardest part is cutting the old bolt out..