Meeky Moose

well it was like 4" too long to fit on my hood.. so i cut out 4-5" right outa the center, then epoxy'd it back together.. it fits perfectly in the raised area of the ea82 hood.. still gotta paint it and sand down the excess epoxy once it dries ( just got done doing it) then i'll get pics when i get it on the car heres some pics of just the scoop, haven't sanded or painted it yet.. the more i look at it the more it looks like a wrx scoop

well i do know the 85' 86' cams are different from the 87'+ cams, turbo cams that is.. and i also know carbed cams are completely different than any turbo cam.. i would imagine the 85's cams are different than your 88's cams.. so if you've already done the passenger side, why not do the drivers side and have it fixed? a little hard cause of the space issue, but you could always unhook the radiator hoses, and unbolt teh motor moutns and jack it up about 6 inches.. might help a little..

engine, rx trans, lsd rear, the hole shebang.. all i run in it is 93 octane... its never once clattered, rattled, or made any other grunts, groans, squeeks, etc.. even advanced all the way..... although i did my fillup with this timing setting and mileage acctually went down 1mpg.. so that tells me the disty is in the correct spot, just not set right.. gonna retard it in the morning and try again.. well there are no timing marks on this flywheel.. so i can't set the timing like everyone else can.. the flywheel wieghs like 8 or 10 lbs.. thats why theres no marks, lol.. theres red paint where the old mark was thought to have been (20 degrees) but it gets 10mpg and my SPFI DL wagon would outrun it at 22 degrees, lol.. guess i need to save some money for a set of delta cams... might free her up to where she should be

Yes Frank B i know thats about all i'm gonna get outa it in town, lol...

lol if you had this under your hood you'd be happy with 17mpg, specially when it'll outrun anything soob ever made with the exception of an sti.. i know the gas mileage is bad for a turbo ea82 car.. but thats not what my question was really about here.. but thanks for raining on my parade yeah, its mpfi and turbo... maybe there is something wrong with the disty.. would seem kinda odd to me tho.. its was also fairly new:-\

hmm guess i need to get this xt6 alt tested, well go test it myself at work, and if its good swap my pulley, if its bad, well, go get the 85 cimaron alty off the shelf, add my employee discount, scratch the core and off i go,

don't know if any of you turbo guys have done this but... when the engine was put back together in my wagon, a set of carb cams were used instead of the turbo cams.. the carb cams had a higher lift and longer duration.. in order to get it to run right, i turned the disty as far advanced as it will go without takin it out and turning it a tooth.. now this puts it so far past the 20 degree mark its not even funny.. maybe 35 or 40 degrees? either way everytime i would advance it more my gas mileage goes up and so does power... no pinging or funny noises at all, just nice and smooth.. gas mileag is up from 10mpg to about 16 or 17 now.. i'm wondering if the carbed cams would really make that much difference in timing?

well, i'm used to pumping my own gas, been doin it all my life, except for the couple eyars i lived in oregon.. lol i acctually prefer to pump my own gas anyways. would really rather stay away from teh big cities also, i like the peace and quiet of the country/suburbs.. i'll have to find the chamber of commerces website if they have one if i could find a 3 bedroom for $800 or less i'd be happy, as long as i could find a job too, lol. am definitely thinkin about washington.. then all you norwesters can laugh at rusty wagon

what do ya mean? it came off a Slob. (Saab) the old hood had a rs hoodscoop on it, welded but the hood support braces buckled from too much welding and it kinda caved in, lol.. was rubbing my BoV so i had to put a stock hood back on it.. i think this time around i'll cut the scoop in half, take about 3" of length out then epoxy it back together so it will fit the raised part of the hood right.. then on it goes again.. i just can't screw this hood up, they're hard to find, lol.. bodyis 100% straight except for the drivers side hood hinge (bent) and the rear fenderwells/cargo compartments where the rust is. underneath isn't real bad.. some minor rot on the frame rails.. gotta fix that too.. nothing has broke due to rust even with the power it has now.. rear diff hanger was reinforced though, the last one broke in half..:-\

i thought about making another fitting in the intake pipe to vent the bov back to it, but i wasn't sure if that was where it needed to go.. the thought of the bov leaking did cross my mind as well, i took it apart once already and replaced the o-ring seal around it.. there are no spacers in it at the moment, just the spring and actuator.. my air/fuel gauge reads stoich when its cold, then when it warms up, its always in the first half of the rich side.. the timing adjustment helped with the gas mileage and power.. power is prolly where it should be but i still only got 90 miles to a half tank of gas so far.. not much better than it was.. ohh i changed the coolant temp sensor today too, the old one was rotted and snapped off upon leaving my engine bay.. gonna get a couple big washers tomorrow and put in my BOV, that'll raise the springs tention thus making it harder to open/leak.. thanks for the input Patrick..

engine bay still needs some work... ac clutch is out and rubbing thats why its white around the edges.. its literally burning, lol.. the power steering lines have a burn/rub hole in them from the twe crossover pipe so its just bypassed at the moment, although its not bad to drive without PS.. once i get her nailed down and running the way i want it to i'm gonna clean it all up, wire loom everything, nip/tuck, etc.. everything was all shiny and clean till i routed a hose wrong and blew the oil dipstick out at full boost.. bah 2 quarts of mobil 1 20w50 is expensive.. ya know i just noticed, it fades from light to dark starting in the front, the multicolor scheme does get the average idiot drivers attention in heavy traffic, they tend to keep thier distance and not ride my rump roast.. it is pretty funny blowing a honda, or maxima off the road in the ole soobie, i get a look from the other driver, haha.. BTW, wheels are 14" factory soob wheels

wether the belt broke or didn't break you always gotta start from the beggining and align the crank/cams when changing t-belts.. wish i was closer i'd help ya out.. keep in mind the car should run the same as it did before the new belts.. if its missing, no power, etc. you prolly gotta tear it back down and recheck it.. something might not be aligned right.. if ya take your time and go by the book (no shortcuts) you'll have it back up and running in no time.. first time i did belts it took me 3 tries at tearing it back down cause i got it wrong and about 4 hours, lol.. now they're a whizz in about 45 min..

Ugly ain't it? heh.. its started out as an original factory Black gl-10 auto wagon.. now, well, the body is a combo of 5 different cars, drivetrain is a combo of just about everything.. Interior is part gl-10, XT6, and RX. its gonna get sanded down, alot of rust in the rear repaired and painted factory black again... check out the hood.. came off an 89 gl wagon.. had factory pinstripe on the hood, first one i ever saw with it, lol.. ohh and the wheels, well, i had a pain in the arse time gettin them from germany.. only cost about $250 tho.. cheaper and easier than a conversion/5lug wheels..

might be moving back to oregon, was thinkin about washington though.. prolly around tax time.. i know what southern oregon is like, never been to washington.. whats the rent like out there for a 3 bedroom house or apartment? schools any good, have 2 kids... gas prices, cost of living, etc? and most importantly, any jobs out there for a auto parts / IT tech?

both run, rx wagon is a daily driver dl wagon runs and drives, but no title for it yet, so it can't be driven.. wonder how that classifies in this post, lol

like was said, the 95' 2.2 will go right in a 96-99 outback/forester, i have personally done 2 of these swaps myself, only on automatic cars.. you need to use the 2.5 fluexplate, torque converter and starter when doing the swap.. its all plug and play really..

yeah, i know mines running rich, i get the black soot when i first start mine too, lol.. i would assume my maf is working, correctly, but maybe i need to find another and swap it for comparison.. at any trottle, even full boost, my air/fuel ratio gauge is in the first 2 bars of the rich side.. otherwise at idle or coasting in gear its dead on in the middle of stoich.. ohh it does have a wideband o2 sensor in it my disty is a stock disty, don't have any fuel leaks at all, fuel injectors were sent off and flow tested and all are within spec. pump, filter, its all new.. is not getting a gas smell in the oil either.. all new plugs, ngk wires, msd blaster2 coil, you name it all new.. what gets me is the car doesn't miss even with all that gas its burning.. the timing is another story, lol.. the flywheel was ground down to 10 or so lbs.. which took off all the timing marks, but it was marked before it was ground down.. so its set at where the new marks are.. yesterday i hit it with a timing light (pain in the rump roast with a spider intake BTW) it was set dead on at 22 degrees.. so for ************s and giggle i twisted the disty and advanced it all the way, withoput taking it out, then went for a ride.. to my amazement the damn thing broke loose all 4 tires (fulltime 4wd) and slung herself sideways coming out the driveway, lol.. ran real good but i knew it was advanced too far cause it had no power above 5k.. power band was 2-4500k rpms.. so i just backed the timing off a nudge, power is aout 2500-5500k rpms now, which from what my old rx did, seemed about right.. now since there is only one timing mark that i think now is wrong, i have no clue what the timing is set at.. the car will run like a monster now, outruns my 90 cavalier z24 with a 3.1 v6 in it.. we'll see how the gas mileage goes this tank, last tank i got 117 miles and was down to the last 2 bars on my digigauge.. put 12 gallons in her at fillup.. now thats horid, lol.. burnin gas like i drink water.. as far as my estimated gas mileage, i had an old 86' 2wd turbo gl-10 and it got 34 on the freeway with 290k on its ticker.. that took alot of tuning, lol.. my old rx got about 20.. so this wagon being fulltime 4wd and all should get somewhere around 20.. hell if i could get 18 i'd be happy..

car doesn't smoke at all, not even under full boost.. exhaust system is all 2 1/2" with a brand new catco high flow cat and flowmaster muffler.. heres something else i noticed, when the car is cold and hasn't warmed up yet, it has so much power its almost insane.. if ya hit full boost you can't get up off the seat.. but then when it warms up it becomes a dog so to speak.. about like my spfi 2wd DL wagon.. any more ideas?

the cars got all new exhaust, turbo had new gaskets (not leaking), o2 sensor is brand new.. hell everything is brand new.. its all got about 7k on it since the project was finished.. timing is set at 22 degrees.. all the hoses and vacuum lines are brand new, clamps included.. thats why i'm stumped.. no check engine light or codes either..

well its not exactly stock, twe crossover pipe, skip downpipe, spider intake, and intercooled.. its making 10psi of boost fine, doesn't "feel" like its got any power though.. its also gettin 10mpg.. i'm more worried about the 10mpg than the power issue though.. any ideas? i've already been over all the hoses and tightened/sealed everything up.. EDIT: heres a picture of what i am working with..

my 99' outback did the same thing, the 1-2, and 2-3 shifts.. never had any problems in 10k miles or so.. i wouldn't worry about it personally

the 98' your looking at has the 2.5 engine, from the sounds of the rust and price, i would move along and pass that one up... personally i would say keep the audi for yourself, go trade the minivan in on a new or fairly new compact car for your son, since niether one of you like it..

my b-in-law blew a t-belt the other day, and his car had been ticking for a couple months anyways.. so i went down and bought the oil pump seals, and t-belts (he's a non car guy) replace everything fire her up and instantly had 20 psi more oil pressure than it used to but the tick was still there.. he drove it for a couple days, still ticking.. so i went out and fired her up and punched it to 7500 rpm's a few times and whala, no more tick.. hasn't ticked in a couple days now.. the poor ole car does have 270k on it and is rusted to hell, but she runs good, all things considering..

well its my b-in-laws soob (89' gl wagon, SPFI, dual range 5-speed) we've had 3 days of solid nonstop rain, so the creek was overflowing.. on the way in i was the first to go since i was in the smallest vehicle.. stock hieght with 14" pugs and some meaty tires. the other guys were in a lifted 4-runner, and a lifted samurai. so anyways i start into the creek and realize the water is super deep, so on the gas i go... the water was as deep as the windshield.. came up over the hood and was lashing on teh windshield, so i kept on the gas (only thing i could do) and the damn car went right on through and never sucked a drop of water.. It did take on water through the rusted out back cargo compartments. nowhere else though. then i got it stuck and had to get winched up a hill.. (thats a long story) all in all i went through that creek forwards and backwards about 6 times.. water up to the windshield and never had an issue.. until the timing belt broke, lol.... least i know it doesn't need a snorkel, lol.. so tomorrow i get to change his t-belts.. guess thats the price to pay for having fun.. just thought i'd share.. today proved how tough these things really are..

all else fails, make them give you a new car