75subie

the stereo is probly wired onto the same power wire as the clock and seatbelts. the stereo probly was drawing too much power, therefore causing the wire to smoke and possibly melt. if this is the case, just rewire the stereo onto its own power source/fuse. or...like you said, sell the car and buy something better if this one is giving you so many problems....

i highly recomend slotted rotors (actually mine are drilled and slotted) i run them on my hyundai, and the increase in brake power is actually amazing, my brakes used to heat up alot, as i drive kind of aggressivly, but i have been running these for about 6 months, and no warping or anything!to me they were worth the extra bucks

thanks GD! you just saved me from throwing $60+ out the window:headbang:

this is not a 1 size fits all clutch right? i`m looking for the cheapest option for my hatch, and this is half price, but ea82 and ea71 clutches are all different right? Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Standard-Clutch-Kit-for-Subaru-1600-1800-BRAT-XT_W0QQitemZ7985297657QQcategoryZ33733QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

thanks for the input guys:headbang: Ryan, i too thing it is a nice alternative to a scoop, scoops are all over, these you see once in a blue moon. i like your idea better for the front, i'll give that a try. i was thinking the front might look a little tacky with 2 pieces of sheet metal. i am going to smooth out the seams with bondo on the sides. i think it will look pretty cool with it, kind of a muscle type look. it'll say SUBER-SLOW on the sides of the induction:burnout: now i just have to find a chevy ss emblem for the rear hatch:D with a loud exhaust, people will look at it and think there is a v8 under the hood haha Jon

i am in the process of making a cowl induction hood for my hatch. has anybody else done something simular? any pics? this one is going to be pretty large. currently i just have the shape marked out, i started cutting it with the sawzall, but that was to rough of a cut, so i am going to buy a thin cutting wheel for my grinder.... below are some pics. the cutting lines run parallel to the body lines on the hood. once i get it cut out, i`m going to use that same piece, and use some metal brackets to raise it up 3 or 4 inches, and then use sheet metal to box in the sides. it should look pretty sweet, i`ll post an after pic when its done. i was also working on a fiberglass hatch spoiler but the template got ruined by the rain:-\ i`ll post pics when the other one is made... before pic: cut marked simular idea: any feedback is appreciated

spray some of the "Gunk" engine degreaser on it, let that sit, and then pressure wash them either with your own pressure washer, or at a car wash.....also, simple green is pretty strong stuff if you get the non-diluted kind. just spray that on, use a hand brush to get into the spots the best you can, then wash....those are just a couple obvious ideas.

WOW!! that car is simply amazing! that must be a 77 right? did you restore it or is that all original stuff?

yea, that definatly seems like the way to go in the long run. i might just do the same in my hatch to prevent rust from happening. did you do up the blue stock hatch like that also?

that guy is a thief, don`t give him the job. you can get a rebuilt cv for $80 and switch it out in less than an hour. that is if you are mechanically inclined, even if you are not, its not too hard to figure it out.... EDIT: actually, if it isn`t clicking, just get a cv boot repair kit, cut off the torn boot, pack the joint with grease and re-boot it, thats by far the cheapest option, though it is not easier...

Ryan, just out of curiosity, what did that cost you to rust bullet and bedline that whole floor? around $200? it does look sweet! plus, you can just take a hose and clean it out after wheeling... Jon

sounds like a cool project you have going on. did you log onto the justy message board yet? they have some cool people and cool lookin rigs over there..... post pics!!

d/r, = dual range 4wd, or high-low 4wd

i bet a 70s cj jeep frame would be close, the wranglers would brobly be too big. how about a geo tracker frame? i hear those 1.6's they have in those, with a 5speed d/r is pretty bulletproof. plus it would be good on gas. those trackers have a solid rear axle and manual front lock in hubs with independent axles. just a thought....

yeah, there are many people on here with heavily modified rxs. some are: WJM, thesubarujunkie, gravelrx, rallyruss, and a few others

i love these washington hatches: http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d118/ruppenduro/87hatchsuzy/hatch020.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d118/ruppenduro/87hatchsuzy/hatch022.jpg

clayton, well you can probly find a complete ea82 auto 4x4 wagon for $400 or less. steel is not cheap unless you find some used stuff. i`d figure it would cost $1500 to $2200 total to build a nice buggy like sweet82's. you could also build a beast type rig alot cheaper......

the nice part is, you guys are in suby land, if you do indeed ever get up to 300k, and your main bearings start to go, just go to a local pap and pull another ea81 for $125 or less........ being in OR, you should be pretty well set for rust, but look under it pretty closely, sometimes looks are decieving, the car can be from Alaska or something. i prefer ea81s only because i like the fact that you can get that engine in several different body styles, and ea82 t-belts look like a pain in the arse to fix, good i`ve never had to do them............

no question in my mind, a vw rabbit diesel is your best bet. they are reliable, snappy, good on gas, and easy to convert to veggie oil. there are also many bolt on mods for them. plus, you can score a whole parts rig for under $500 usually.

if you can, please save it!! its worth some good money to the right person, even if it had to be made into a n/a ea81 brat. was there much rust? the pushbar on the wagon looks mighty good also:brow:

auto with a low range transfer case would probly be ok. just make sure you don`t really pound on it, and change your tranny fluid once in a while.

hit the lugs with a hammer to loosen up the threads, then spray them up with wd-40, i bet they will break loose with a breaker bar. i just threw out a few spare bolting plates i had, so i can`t help you on the broken lugs....

sweet82 has a killer rig with an 82 hatch drivetrain. i`m sure he will chime in soon, but here is a pic from his gallery....

awesome! i hope i can have mine ready:-\ going to get the tranny on saturday, so i hope to have it all together and on the road soon.

did many of the bolts give you a hard time? i wish i had a cutting torch because wrestling with rusted bolts is a pain in the arse. did you check the rear inner wheel arches for rust? overall it still looks real solid. just patch it up and undercoat the heck out of it....