Uberoo

dry sump could be usefull for the offroad guys.Even more clearance under the front..

I wouldnt use atv rims.They are rated for like 500LBs max.You can use atv tires with about 20 psi on a 14" nissan rim.They would be offroad only.and speeds below 40.But they would give outstanding traction.

is the first vid up?

yea but then there is enough torque to break the stub shafts almost every outing..

teenagers are a danger on the roads my a55.The pT cruiser was driven by a 75 year old lady who ran the red light.

gee I love the B202 in my saab its so simple B-B series engine,20 -swept volume 2.0L,and finally 2-number of camshafts.Then turbo just has an extra T(although its not on the block cause the block is the same for turbo/non turbo.Heck so is the bottom end.Just different pistons and the turbo has sodium filled exhaust valves...definatly a lot of money in designing the car...At least the bottom end can support well over 650 hp... oh oops Ive begun rambling...oh its 12:21...Maybe me should go to bed..

yes I followed the retorque correctly .it just seems there was a bit of gasket near the studs that I couldnt get...

Can I actally clean the surfaces enough in the car so the headgaskets don't fail aqain ever?The heads will be clean(I'll have them flattened) but can I get enough off the block so it doesn't blow a headgasket for another 100K.Ive changed a headgasket in a EA81 and even had the heads flattened and it failed again less than 100 miles latter.So Im leary about doing it in car..

Is it possible to change the headgaskets on an EJ22 that is currently sitting in a 1987 GL wagon without pulling the motor?On an EA82 it was doable but difficult because it had studs.Does the Ej22 have these studs?Or should I just pull the motor?

since you want to do custom work all around why not try to engineer a twin A arm suspension all the way around.Set it up so it lifts you to your desired height.run porsche 930 CV's and you would have a lot of flex.Then just use shortish coilovers mounted at the same spot on the body.The coilover then bolts to the upper arrm which then controls the hub which is also bolted to the lower A arm.When it comes to flew you just arnt going to get alot with macpherson struts.More or less try to copy the 4wd front suspension on baja trucks.Those have insane travel and still have 4wd independent suspension.

uh sure...

no,it blew a headgasket...

check if you have fuel at the pump.If so turn the pump on it should create a nice healtly stream.if not you have the wires mixed up.If you dont have fuel to the pump put some gas in the tank and use a syphon pump to draw fuel to the pump.After all of this and you still don't run check the fuel inlet and outlet hoses are correct.The port you want to connected your supply line to is the TOP LINE.Fuel return is the line below the top line,and fuel vent is the bottom line.

axle hop?

acceration doesn't really happen from a stop in RWD or FWD it just burns the tires off!

did you search the bushes with a breaker bar or piece of exhaust tubing?Or the all time favorite: the aluminum bat?

double post.Opps.Can a mod please delete this thread?Thanks.

I read a thread a while ago how someone took there radiator apart then rad a thin piece of sheetmetal through each tube to clean it out.Is that possible with an EA81 2 core radiator?Ive never taken a radiator apart...If it does work what would be a good size for the sheetmetal tool?I seem to recall his was something like 33" long and 1/4" wide and some small number for the thickness. .032" it seems

I read a thread a while ago how someone took there radiator apart then ran a thin piece of sheetmetal through each tube to clean it out.Is that possible with an EA81 2 core radiator?Ive never taken a radiator apart...If it does work what would be a good size for the sheetmetal tool?I seem to recall his was something like 33" long and 1/4" wide and some small number for the thickness..032 it seems. EDIT: nevermind the EA81 radiator is soldered...I'll just run about a gallon of vinegar through it....

bailing wire is better.

with the original engine the EA81 or EA82 wagons you have to rev the ever living hell out of the thing to move.With a EJ22 in an EA82 wagon I can gentle press the gas to 3K then shift.(very slight pressure).With the EJ22 what is the point of flooring it?In FWD up till about 4th gear and 25 mph if I suddenly decide I want to punch the gas I have wheelspin.Period.That and applying full EJ power is a very good way to get tickets.A while back I was going 25 in rwd(broke a front axle) I was also in thrid.I punched it.I had a little bit of wheelspin then before I knew It I was at 75 like it was nothing!in about a city block it went from 25-75...This is with an EA82 WAGON!that was on a road outside of lewiston city limits BTW.

Let me ask the obvious questions.First all How do you know you dont have power to coil?And secondly do you have fuel getting to the engine.Is it possible you mixed up the fuel In and fuel out ports on the EJ?loosen the fuel supply hose and what for spray.if no spray you have a fuel delivery problem.If you have fuel check to make sure that the fuel supply line is to the correct fuel line on the Ej22.IIRC it is the lower line that large.I would go out and check for you but right now its dark and im in my skivies...

But it doesnt go away in RWD!One of my front axles is blown to.yea the car is easier to control,but in rwd when you want to accerate it doesnt happen.today I had to merge onto a busy uphill road.The back end burned out the whole way through the corner and on up the street.I know this from what the revs were doing and for the cloud of smoke that was at the intersection...it seems Ej22 cars have traction issues:burnout:

the alternator might be a cause of your grief.My car doesnt have the Vss or the nuetral safety switch hooked up.I dont even recall if they were in my harness

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