Uberoo

so did you hit the rollercoaster?

EA82's of any variery (turbo,carbed,spfi,etc) make good boat anchors It is worth nothing that the EA82 SPFI system is a very robust and simple fuel injection setup.IMO the best part about an EA82 is the SPFI FI system,the 5 speed DR,and some bits on the body.. Just swap swap in an EJ and your will have all the power you will ever need(for the most part) and fantastic reliability .

Dude Abides, you dont have to run 2" on the engine/tranny/rear diff.1" can work...

He said he searched and found info on the tempo/accord springs.He was wondering if anyone had done the spring lift and the 2" lift.So he did search.I dunno "2" block lift + tempo+ accord springs" might be kinda hard to search for..

trailing arms,struts,and axles all play a role in limiting travel..

it would essentially be a 2" suspension lift,but with the room for bigger tires given by a 3" lift.. as for springs-pull and save/pick a part/u pull...

tempo springs, use the front springs from a ford tempo.I don't think engine really matters much because they all came with the same engine.It IS possible to use tempo springs as a 2" lift or there abouts on the front.I cut a whole coil off the top of them and that got me 1" of lift even with the EJ in there. accord springs,use accord front springs off a car with an auto and AC.They go on the rear of a wagon,also giving about an inch of lift. In theory you should be able to use the springs and a two inch lift to get 3" lift.Then run a 1" block under the engine/tranny and rear diff to make the angles more bearable. with that extra lift it should be easier to fit some tires... 3" of suspension lift seems like it would eat axles like candy.like my 2" lifted EA81 is supposed to do...

coast down doesn't really mean much.My 89 Dodge W250(barn door with solid axles hanging down) coasts down hills hills faster than than any car Ive owned just because it has the sheer mass to smash its way through the air.Where as all of my cars on the same hill slow down much faster because even though they are more aerodynamic they don't have the momentum. however off the top of my head I have two cheap/easy things you could do to an EA82 wagon.1 the turn signals in the bumper are indented a small amount creating a tiny cave(think old dodge charger grill and you get the picture).So if you mount the lights flush with the bumper and seal the edges of the lights it should help somewhat. 2nd one is counter intuitive, as a wagon or SUV rips a hole though air a HUGE vacuum is created behind it.If you draft a larger vehicle you are riding along in that vacuum of air and the larger vehicle is slightly pulling you.Here is where it gets counter intuitive.If you add one of those rear spoiler type things that have a sharp rake to them so that they clean your rear window.If you add of those to the rear of your wagon it will increase your CDa slightly but will improve your MPG a fair bit because you wont be dragging around such a huge vacuum of air behind the car.

Thank you.Now it looks like I need to go borrow a friends welder.What thickness did you use to box the "frame" and mount your bumper to?

Sorry about the clarity issue. I was wondering how to attach a ROUND hose and hose clamp to a SQUARE intake horn. a hose clamp will not seal it up properly because its round and it wont conform to the intake horn that well. unless you are thinking seal off the intake horn and use the round port on the bottom (that ran hot air from the manifolds into the intake air)

for christmas I was supposed to get a welder.except right now due to money troubles that hasn't materialized yet.So I was thinking of lowering my standards a bit and getting something cheaper.I was considering the lincoln 180T which is pretty much a perfect welder for me, because I would mostly be working on cars and what not.What is not perfect is its price.the welder,gas,wire,etc would set me back close to $800.So I was considering a 220V unit from harbor freight.it is flux or mig,It can weld .023-.03 solid wire, and it has about the same duty cycle for about 1/2 as much.depending on specials at HF it might be even less.Its price is tempting but I don't know about its quality.Anyone ever used a HF mig welder and had good results? thanks in advance.

do you have any more pics of the whole set up because Im running a 2"/torsion bar cranked up lift.More clearance might be a good thing..

So what did you do about the tow hook/loops down there?Did you Weld some D rings to it?

it seems the last time I played with my Ea81 toy I must have hit a rut with the lower radiator support.so its bent up a bit.Which was no problem when I wasn't running a hood,but now that Ive found a hood,the radiator is interfering with the hood and not allowing it to shut.Is there a way to bend the support back down or would I be better off cutting the support out and welding some box channel in its place?

anyway to attach a hose of some sort to the blue thing because im lazy so the I probally wouldn't check the rag that often..

I have the disty kinda waterproofed...I suppose I will just route the airfilter to where the spare tire used to sit..I was just kinda worried with the factory airbox inlet being so close to the front.

Im trying to fit a snorkel to my ea81 toy.I got a EA82 FI air intake horn.that fit, but I had to cut down an old radiator hose I had around to make a sleeve inside it so it would tighten up to the carb.Go to close the hood and it doesn't quite fit.I'm sure I could make it fit by cutting the hood,but I would rather not because its a straight hood from pull and save.Ive heard of using an S10 airbox but that seems to just bolt to a weber. anybody have any idea of what I could use to connect a tube to the carb and still fit under the under the hood? Engine is in stock height relative to the body because I didn't space it down. also I plan to pass the snorkel tubing through the firewall and up through the cowl on the passenger side.What is a good way to cut that hole?It looks a bit too curvy to use a hole saw on.torch is an option(at least through the firewall..) thanks in advance Note:must be able to hook vacuum lines and PCV lines to snorkel intake..

so does it have to power to spin those 31's?ie offroad?

I like how it wraps around the car.

1983 mazda b2200 with a perkins 2.2.It is also take apart right not.its fuel tank was dirty so I had to pull the bed..

it seems like the tophats for the front are worn a bit..

I never said the truck was in 4wd while I was rallying it.just a big hulking RWD vehicle with 60/40 weight distribution.

I see you 60 MPH 4 wheel drift and raise you a 60 mph RWD drift with a diesel powered fullsize truck with solid axles and leaf springs at each end. which bring me to my point something is wrong with the legacy if 50 is about all I feel safe driving it on gravel while my 3/4 ton CTD dodge pickup is stable and controllable at 60-65 ... beside I said that 40 mph is slow on gravel,it only starts getting fast when your at 3-4K in 4th on gravel..(which is about 60ish)

how is 40 on a gravel road fast?thats the top of second gear.On the other hand I would say anytime you can use 4th (and be in the power band) thats fast on gravel. as for buying a rwd vehicle.Most are a bit too small to be practical for me.Rx7s,240s,180sx,etc Mustangs,camaros,and BMW's are ok,but the purchase price of a BMW is bad, so is the gas of a a v8 mustang/camaro.Which leaves 4 banger mustangs but most are beat to hell or have already been converted to V8. Other than an old volvo I don't know what else would be a practical daily driver.some RWD mini pickups but I already have a diesel powered mini pickup,and a diesel powered full size pickup so I can't get any more pickups..

Im not really a fan of awd.Yea it has alot of traction but that traction yields over confidence.So then you go into a corner and the tires break loose in a big way.Then your screwed.. Although I may just buy an AWD 5 speed legacy sedan and see how that goes,because converting it to awd and then rwd at some latter time would take alot of work.Not to mention those rear struts are a pain in the a55...