Uberoo

I have no idea what mine is timed to.I just plopped the disty in and moved the plug wires around until it started and ran...

If you are looking for more power out of an EA81,A weber carb or SPFI swap give the most bang for your buck.However, the weber gives a slight improvement in power,but where it really shines is run ability compared the hitachi carb.So it helps a bit.For power at all ranges go with the SPFI swap.I just finished my SPFI swap on my EA81 offroad toy.It seems to have more power than any other EA81 series vehicle that I have ever driven.It is lifted 2" and has 235/75/15 MT's on it.It is faster than the car when it had the stock carb and stock tires.It is even faster than my old 84 brat with a weber and stock tires. Before the swap I had to slip the clutch a bit or give it lots of power to take off with those bigger tires.Now I can pull away like a normal person. Weber: Far better run ability and tune ability over stock carb.Seems to give good low end grunt,decently cheap SPFI : its in a different league when it comes to run ability.Makes good Power across the rev band,More expensive than weber,wiring. My Ea81 Idles smoother than it has ever,and it has no problems at all reving to 8k.The stock carb couldn't put enough fuel in the engine to go much higher than 6K. Other than that,Maybe a delta cam would help a fair bit...But for right now its got loads of power...

I haven't camped in a wagon, but I did do something in the back of my legacy sedan that isn't quite "G rated"...

why do people take cars offroad? BFG A/T's for sure and make sure the cooling system is tip top shape.

Got it.Had some issues with wiring being crossed and what not but I got it to start. my switched hot was only on in start.My start wire wasn't on at all.My constant hot wasn't constant because its fusible link wasn't connected and so on.. not to mention my timing was off a fair bit... Now I need to go buy a cone air filter and adapt it to the MAF,Buy a O2 sensor,and put a skid plate back on it.Not to mention tidying up some of the wiring.. but it runs...far better than with the 30 year old craptachi and corroded disty cap...

On an spfi which hose off the intake manifold is fuel in?Thanks.

knock out your 1/4 panel windows as well as pull your hatch to get max airflow back there.

I would say buying pugs is more like being a girl than drilling rims. Guys like risk and danger drilling rims has both(although very small) buying something that fits is girly! So there!

tires look a bit close to the front framerails.How will it turn?

Im just gonna stuff the ECU where one of the speakers went. Ok,Im using a test light and Im trying to find Constant Hot,hot in run,and Hot in start. On my 84 wagon there is a white wire that is hot at all times.On the back of the ignition switch there is a black w/ yellow stripe that is hot in run.But that wire turns to a black w/ white stripe on the other side of the connector.Im thinking that is the start signal because the signal wire off the starter is black w/ white stripe.Also there is a black w/ pink stripe on the ignition switch that isn't connected to anything PIN R on the switch.Is that the start wire for a computer? I dunno anyone know a pinout of the various functions on an EA81 ignition switch?I don't want get this wrong because the last time I guessed wrong I wired the ECU to 12V constant and I had to use a switch to turn it off..

Heavy Wagon,dude!

How do I take apart the dash on an EA81?I need to pull mine so I can install the SPFI wiring harness.Ive undid just about every screw I can find but its still in there tight.Anyone got a picture of where the main dash bolts/screws are?

Ok let me verify that how I have my power wires run is correct: I got a red wire coming from a green fusable link.That wire goes diectly to the center of the ignition relay.From that wire I have the black/White stripe wires that go to the ignition relay and to the computer tied into the wire with a 15A fuse. those wires are always hot. then from the grey diode near the ECU I have the red/Blue stripe wire.I spliced in a lead from that wire, to the both black/White stripe wires that go to the fuel pump relay.That wire connecting the Red/b stripe and the Black/w stripe wires hot only in start and run with a 15A fuse. those wires are switched power. Is that correct?Will that work?Or do the wires need to be separate? from the harness I have three power wires that need to be connected: constant hot: powering ignition relay and computer switched Hot: powering fuel pump relay and grey diode hot in start only:start signal

Ok I got the wires for the harness all sorted out. How can I find out which wire on the ignition switch harness on the car is the start signal wire?If I hold the key to start with a battery connected the car will start.So how do I find out which wire the start signal wire is without starting the car?Or should I find out what color the start signal wire is out in engine bay and pray that it is the same color at the switch and that there is only one such wire..

Chinese tires are questionable at best, but you can buy them anywhere tires are sold.Those rims are from a chinese company with no us distributors. I wouldn't trust my life on them when quality 14 and 15" wheels are readily available.For looks you can have your hubs drilled out so it looks normal/nice.

More food for thought.I don't know how well a red hot turbo would be with water/mud getting thrown on it...

while the idea of an EJ22T in a wheeler sounds fun.It will probally be too much engine for what you need. When you say offroad/mud only rig in my mind im pictureing driving through the woods,through the local mud holes,etc. Unless you are refering to straight up mud drag/mud bog type events an NA EJ22 should serve your needs great.Think of it this way.The EJ22 is close to 2X the power of the stock engine.You've lightened the car up a bit by stripping the interior and what not.Not to mention NA EJ22's are a dime a dozen in junkyards.To date I have not seen ONE EJ22T in a junkyard.Or on the road for that matter. I converted an 87 GL wagon to EJ22.It had 205/60/15 snow tires on it,full interior,etc. it had no problems what so ever incinerating the tires in FWD.I could be driving down the road at 30 MPH in 3rd gear and punch the gas and BOTH tires would burn out.On dry pavement. Why not convert to EJ22 and see if you like the power.If you feel that you still need more power, then swap in the 2.2T.

anybody?

Ok 3,10,11,12,13 go to dealer test.So then Im good as far as that goes. Anyone know which wires I need for power?

Ok so I think I have the harness mostly stripped.Some wires to the ECU got cut: 1 Kickdown control 2 CEL 3 TEST 4 6 A/C signal 10 Line End Cord Output 11 Line End Cord Output 12 Line End Cord Output 13 Inhibitor Switch 14 Neutral Switch 15 Parking Switch 18 Start Switch 46 AC Control Ok so: 1,13,15 are for an automatic which I don't have.So good there. 6,46 are for the AC which I don't want. 2 is the CEL which gets ran to ECS light 14 gets wired to a Cruise control switch that my 84 has. 3 WTH? I have all the test connectors connected to each other.Non were cut.Got the green and the white connectors laying right next to each other. 10,11,12 WTH is "Line End Output Cord" 18 is HOT only in start. Then for wiring: 2 CEL 18 Hot in Start Only 22 VSS 27 Hot in RUN and START 29 Hot in RUN and START 30 GND 35 GND 41 Hot in RUN and START 42 GND 44 GND 49 Hot in RUN and START 50 GND 51 GND this just doesn't seem right.Which GND is the main GND for the computer?I imagine most of the GND's are for various switches grounding at the ECU.Same with Power.

What are you trying to accomplish? Mount them as close to front as possible for maximum heat extraction.Mount them as close to the windshield for maximum air intake.

Top the OP: You Don't have to replace ALL lines with high pressure stuff.The fuel return and the vapor lines can be just stock carb stuff.or new carb line if yours is old and rotted out. Some might say to replace all the lines but the return usually doesn't have any pressure in it.Same with the Vapor line. Just one way to help you save a bit of money..

It is my understanding that the transmission in 89s were not computer controlled.So therefore the ecu just needs something to tell it if the car is gear or not.I am working on striping a harness from an 89 FWD GL auto.It might be different but it looks like the brake needed to be pressed to start the car.Or it might need the assortment of inhibitor switches and whatever that autos have. However, I think the inhibitor switch on the ECU is grounded if auto and open if manual.So if there is voltage/continuty on that pin computer thinks its a auto,if not, then computer thinks its a manual. But then I don't know much maybe the FWD autos are different from 4wd autos..

harness came from an 89 FWD auto GL sedan.it doesn't appear to have a transmission ECM so im guessing its transmission isn't electronically controlled.Or the ECU wont work in a manual...

theres two "wires".Actually 4 wires, but two of each pair are bundled into round connectors.A white connector with a large white wire and a smaller yellow wire and a yellowish connector with a blue with white stripe, and a blue with yellow stripe. The large white on the white connector Ties into the wire going to the BLACK fusible link.The yellow wire on the white connector goes to some connector that I don't know what its for.The connector is broken so it just has three wires going to it. the yellowish connector: the blue/white goes to what used to be the ac condenser.The blue/yellow goes to the AC compressor. all four wires from the two connectors on the other side go to those relays that were by the vacuum reservoir. So Im guessing Both connectors white and yellow are the AC stuff.the white connector contains the power and the yellow contains the switching wires. So can anyone verify that the relays by the vaccum reservoir are AC stuff and can then be cut out.