Uberoo

Ive used the pointed end of a test light before...

looks good but I am not very fond of the stock recovery points.

oh ok. it was just a thought. I need to remember that my subaru =/ submarine

for mine I had to go threw three engines to get a good one buts lets pretend I got it right the first time: engine: $150 wiring harness: $15 computer: $15 XT6 pressure plate: $60 fan: $60 fuel pump: $100 adapter plate: $15 EA81 two core radiator: $45 having Noah Strip the harness: $200 gauges: $30 hoses: $30 so at that point it it was at $720 and I didn't even have an exhaust on it. it could be done cheaper if : I stripped the wiring harness, and found a used fuel pump and fan at the junkyard.it had the coolant and oil at my house(wait you mean its not normal to have at least 3 gallons of coolant and crates of motor oil around the house at all times?)

I know nothing is totally waterproof but I have an SPFI EA81.A little bit of water up front and its done, because the disty is right up front...

what he is meaning is you can make EA81's that will make 100-120 HP.However you will have to spend a ton to make it happen.You would new heads that flow worth a damn,high compression,cam,ignition system,etc.For the money you spend is just better to put in an EJ series engine,140HP right out of the box,MPFI,and rock solid reliability. you can run a 38/38 on an EA81,it just needs to be built a little.32/36 is considered an upgrade on stock engines. the 1600cc VW guys that run a 38/38 have nothing going on until about 2500 RPM then they rev to 8 or 10K.the EA81 will spin about 8k if you have proper fueling.With a 38/38 it will be a dog until 2000 ish RPM then hang on. Most of the subaru guys like the low end grunt that the EA81 is famous for,because they go offroading or something.If however you want to spend alot of time at the higher end or build your motor go with the 38/38.

What is needed to drive a coil pack from an EJ car?Could one be driven off a hall effect sensor used with SPFI? it is my understanding that a hall effect sensor can work under water as can an EJ coil pack. with an older offroad rig with a distributor,if the distributor gets wet the car wont work because the water interferes with the rotors ability to deliver spark to the individual terminals. would it be possible to drive a EJ coilpack without the computer?I know the EJ's use a cam angle sensor to tell the position of the engine.. I know the EJ coil packs have three wires.So does that mean there is 12V,ground,and signal. which would mean that it fires all four terminals at once. or is it 12V, 1/3,2/4 and then grounded through the engine?

the 83 is a better wheeler out of the box.From the factory it had more ground clearance and a low range(sorta).Not to mention that to fit bigger tires on the 83 you just lift it or bash the the fenders in.The legacy needs a lift from the bottom of the strut to fit bigger tires. the lego can be a wheeler, its just bigger,heavier,and doesn't have a low range,but it has way more power. I would use the lego on the street,unless you swap in a 5 speed DR....

just wondering: Whats with the "fins" on top of butters?

the rear hub you just unbolt that 32 or 36 MM nut.then just pull the drum off.may require some hammering to get off.

whats right isn't always the easiest path.

other than needing longer studs to the non recessed area... if you drill into the rims in those spots there wont be alot of material off to the sides because of the large recesses.I know steel rims can take the extra stress but I am not sure about aluminum rims.Besides it will look alot nicer if you drill your hubs rather than the rims.Normally I'm not one to talk about nice looking mods with my subaru being a beat up functional rig... I am just worried about the center portion of those rims shearing off if you drill them.However, do what you want,but remember its not just your life your endangering but everyone else sharing the road with you. Look I am poor.I can barely go play as it is.When something breaks on my rig it might be months before I can go play again.I redrilled my steel rims because I didn't want to pay for new studs after converting to 6 lug.However if I was going to put aluminum rims on my car I would spring for the extra studs and convert to 6 lug.

nice build.

there appears to be some slight fender clearancing needed on the brown wagon. zzz looks like fun.

with aluminum rims I would convert to 6 lug,rather than drill them if thats what you mean.

argh.God you guys are making me long to go playing again.I got a clutch ordered from rock auto.No idea when it will get here.I wish I had an EA82 parts car... I look forward to seeing the pics and hearing the story.

I'm sorry Ive been slacking.Here is a pic of my half doors.I forgot to add cupholders in the doors so I will have to make some when I get the chance.I modified the factory linkage for the doors.To open them,simply press down on the linkage. EDIT: my engine is pulled so the radiator,overflow tank etc are sitting on the seats.

Cover the pump with some rubber insulation or something if the noise bothers you.Or build an insulated box for it to sit in.

I was able to stick a steel pipe on the control arm and hit that with my big hammer and it popped right out,after I unbolted the sway bar,at the exact instant that the napa machine shop closed.Oh well,I will just take it in on monday then..

I can't get the lower ball joint to pop free from the control arm.I've tried simply beating on the balljoint(with the castelated nut on there so to not mess up the treads) Ive tried jacking the car up from the lower ball joint while hammering on the control arm to get it free but I still can not get it to budge. I have everything else loosened up and ready to come off but no joy with the lower ball joint. and this this subaru part for the knuckle would the local napa machine shop have something they could use?

What I meant for normal play was the only give was just the rubber distorting. As for the one shot wheel bearing,the strut/spindle/tie rod, etc didn't move it was just the bearing/rotor that moved. Now that I have the parts is there any tips/tricks that I need to know or is it pretty straight forward?

My car started making some scary sounding noises from the front end.So I jacked the car up and started playing with stuff.The right front tire had 1/2" or so of play in it in any direction.Its just the wheel/rotor that moves.So I believe that the wheel bearing is shot.However Ive never had a car just eat one wheel bearing.Normally the others arn't far behind, but all three other tires have a very small amount of play(normal amount).I checked the wheel nut and it was tight,and they way it is designed it can't really back off.So how likely is it that is it is in fact the wheel bearing?Is there anything else in there that could cause that much play? Car is a 93 legacy wrong wheel drive sedan.

ive heard of cats getting hot and starting fires,but mufflers?I suppose its possible.where did the heat shielding go?

2" lift on EA81's is supposed to eat front axles like candy.When mine was like that I blew three axles in about 6 months of bashing the heck out of it offroad. OEM left axle-clicking after mudding,blew up on drive home aftermarket left axle-left factory with out enough grease in DOJ OEM right axle- blew up mudding then I installed EA82 front suspension under it,I haven't blown an axle yet but there isn't a lot of time on it. So put that 2" block in there.If you notice it going through axles "like candy" then correct it somehow.Yea I blew up 3 axles in a short time span but I really don't consider them failures due to the lift itself.The lift may have been a contributing factor but it was mostly due to 30 year old axles.

ok thanks every one for your help.