Uberoo

i'm confused. you say they have to be offset but then you say they have to go straight down. Wait: I think I get it: the tube itself is straight down with the top and bottom plates welded on at an angle so that there angle is equal to what the strut tower is.

ok thank you.

I know this is probally dumb but I will ask it anyway.Im designing the 8" front lift blocks for when I put a Tcase in my rig.Im offseting them 5* per inch of lift.Im offseting 5* instead of 7* because with 7* offset on my 2" blocks and the EA82 suspension I have some pretty good negative camber going on.So Im thinking a little less offset should help that.Anyway if my math is correct the total offset will be 40*.Also if my math is correct that will end up moving the strut in 4.62 inches which seems like a lot.Is my math correct,and then if it is do I just bash the hell out of the strut tower for clearance? or is there something I am missing?Blocks would be for an EA81.Thanks in advance.

There is a 2" block lift you can do.It just spaces the struts down.So it tends to eat axles.Unless you swap in the EA82 front suspension which has longer axles and control arms. with the two inch lift you put a 2" piece of 1/4" thick tube in between the strut top and the body.Then you just crank the rear torsion bar up in the back.Its best to have the rear end off the ground when you crank the adjustment bolt up. The bolt holes for the front blocks have to be offset 7* for every inch of lift with stock suspension or about 5* per inch of lift if you swap in the ea82 front suspension.

ok thank you.

Ive heard that legacy diffs are 4.11,but they also have inner stubs instead of the outer stubs.Is it possible to put the 4.11 ring and pinion gearset into a 3.9 diff housing and then just slide in the outer stubs?

It seems its just a wiring gremlin. I looked at stuff under the dash and just the act of messing stuff around allowed it to start.So possibly a loose connector or pin at the ecu or something..

problem is I was trying to order from rockauto. they only listed the 200 mm clutch. only way to get the 225 1X24T was to order one for an XT6 oddly enough autozone has the correct disk for less than what everyone else is charging for the 200 mm disk...

Why is it that most auto parts chains seem to think that a 200 mm clutch with 7/8" 21 splines will fit ALL subarus from 79-94? I thought the 200 mm clutch with 7/8X21 spline only fit 79-83 4wd subarus,with FWD going a little longer.After that I thought it was a 225 mm clutch with 7/8x21 spline for 4 speeds, and 225 with 1"x24 spline for 5 speeds. other than ordering a disk for an XT6 which is expensive any one have any other ideas?

how about this: buy an 87-89 wagon with 4wd and fuel injection with a dead engine.Put EA81 engine in place with 87-89 fuel injection installed on it.Then you will have a roomy (relative) subaru,with a bomb proof engine,a strong transmission,and a robust fuel injection set up.

so if I just use one switch for ignition "ON" will I have lights,heater fan etc?Just no accessory position right.

its seems my ignition switch is dieing because I have no power to the coil when I turn it just past run and into start.

light still goes out. I may just have to wire in a toggle and push button switch. If I wired an ignition switch so that one side is the 12V constant and the other side is the ignition wires, then ran a push button start would I still have lights and other things?I don't have a radio so there isnt a need for an accessory position.

the test light lights up until until I turn the key to start, then there is nothing.

I think the biggest issue when fit a 6 into these cars is where to put the rad.But with no radiator up front it should fit.

On my SPFI swapped EA81 I got it started.Then a couple days latter it wont start.By following the advice of some of the members here they suggested to replace the CTS.so I did that and it still wont start.So I started poking around with my testlight. I have power to BOTH sides of the coil but none to the tower,so None to the plugs.I tried swapping the coil with the old carb one.Still wont start.So how come I have power to both sides of the coil but no power to tower(on both coils I tried). Please help because I need to get this running by thursday..

HELP!!!!! replaced that switch/sensor and it still wont start!!!! I have power everywhere I am supposed to when the key is in run . Please help!!!! I need to get this going by Thursday!!!! EDIT: Found out I am not getting any spark despite the fact that there is power to the coil(On both sides for some reason.I am not getting any power in the tower of the coil(according to my test light).I tried putting in a different coil same thing. also does the computer have to grounded to the body or does it have it its own ground/s in the wiring harness?If the computer needs to be grounded that might be my problem because it is just stuffed under the dash,non bolted to anything.

Thanks I think.It does look good.I was mealy commenting on masking tape joints... that will all fit IN the hatch? or is it exoskeleton?

My dodge has 3:55's in front and 3:54's in the back or vice versa and it works fine.Although I can't have it in 4wd on anything like pavement though... something about transfer case wind-up around corners or something...

masking tape > weld

You can get those nuts of while its in the car. Take a sawsall or grinder with a cut off wheel.Cut the tube where it comes out straight.Then you can fit a large wrench over the nut.Use the closed end.Position it so you can kick it in the direction it needs to go.It should break loose.Unscrew the nut the rest of the way.throw the tube away.Then put a quarter in there and tighten it up.

Sounds good but one minor caveat: I know chevy engines are cheap and easy but does anyone put ford engines into fords?Bigger chevies into chevies,and Mopar engines in Mopars? I know chevys are readily available,have a huge after market etc, Im just tired of seeing chevies in hot rods,jeeps,toyotas,fords and anything else that needs an engine... Stuff a built 360 or 440 in there!please Although it is pretty cool!A J truck on 44"s...

Open the pop tops and go!!!

Holy J Truck Batman! what is the specs on that bad boy?

got it muddy on its maiden voyage huh... When I fitted the 235/75/15's to my car the rims were still warm from drilling when I went and took it mudding...