Uberoo

allready tried the reverse bit.couldn't get it centered.a 7/16 drill bit passes through the dowel and is centered.I thought about just drilling the little bit of aluminum in the bore until I got to the broken bit then the centered 7/16 bit could start to make a center hole.then hopefully I can use the reverse bit and pull out the bolt...

As far as the bolt goes will 7/16 fine thread hold?I was thinking drilling the bolt out down to original thread depth, then re tapping it for 7/16 fine thread.Then find a long bolt.Will grade 5 hold or grade 8 be better?

I wonder if spray copper coat would be a good thing to use?

how about some thinish glass on top of a granite counter top?

oops my bad.I was thinking tempo v6 springs for the front ... 80's accord front springs fit for the rear.Better?

$90 to do both,but I AM dirt poor. why would it go UP with bad economy?then more people can't afford it and will do alternatives.. How to make the wet/dry stick to glass plate?What to use to find high/low spots?

machinist layed a metal bar "straight edge" over the heads and measured it with a feeler gauge.then I balked at the price.

The passenger head was warped .008" and the driver's head was warped .006".Subaru spec calls for .002".Im just wondering if in the real world that little bit matters.I know that the bolts will flatten down the head to an extent,and the head gasket itself can take up some.I'm just asking because the machine shop wants $90 to mill them flat.After buying the car for 120 and the HG/intake manifold gaskets for 70 im flat out broke. Ive heard of using a glass plate and some some sandpaper to "mill" it flat,but I don't know how long it would take to take off .008" and .006" respectively.

80's accord front springs with the V6 and Air Con fit back there too.

I found a nasty surprise on the passenger side block.it seems that the frontmost/upper bolt was broken off some time ago.Its busted off right at the end of the threads so its broken off about 2- 3" in the block.Any chance of a reverse drill bit being able to pull it out?If I cant get the remainder of the bolt out ,can the other bolts be tightened just a touch more to help seal that corner?

Im taking the heads down to a machine shop tomorrow to check there flatness.I did a preliminary check by setting them down on a granite countertop.one was flat and didn't move at all.the other one wobbled slightly so I will see if its still in spec... one odd thing on this motor is EVERY nut,bolt,etc seems to be on there with a bajillion more ft-lbs than is what is needed.like someone used an impact wrench to tighten everything...

real quick question here.When pulling the heads to change the HG is the loosening procedure the same as the tightening order? IE: 3 1 6 5 2 4 thanks. this is on a 91 EJ22.

I found a 91 automatic awd legacy wagon for $120.it was so cheap because of a blown HG.I bought it as a donor car for an EJ swap,However, a friend offered me way more than I paid for it if I was to fix it and sell it to him.So I get the parts.Then set out to pull the motor last night around 11:45 PM(my neighbors love me).It was all going great until I get to actually pulling the engine.I got the engine about 3" from the transmission then I start hearing a gurgling sound.look at the back of the engine...son of a !!!!!! the torque converter is leaking its contents all over my driveway.So I frantically tried to find a suitable container.found a pop can just in time to catch the last few drops.Finished pulling the engine then I spread cat litter over the ATF.I will shop vac it up later today(after I wake up).Then pressure wash the engine and drive way,(AND my jack,AND the engine bay...YAAAA!!! Automatic transmissions are the devil,why else would there fluid be red? Anyway when it comes time to stuff the engine back in there what is the best way to connect the engine-TC-transmission combo?First time pulling an automatic engine... Also how much ATF does the transmission take?As well as the heat exchanger in the radiator and the TC.does it take regular ATF or is it special?

I just bought a 91 AWD legomatic with 234K and a overheating issue for $120.It overheats after about a mile or so is what the guy I bought it from said,even though it didn't even warm up when I drove it on the trailer.So I will look at it after this rain stops and see what the problem is.anyway I bought it because my EA81 in my wheeler toy ingested some mud destroying the rings or the piston walls...Anyway at some point in the future I plan to T case my subaru and run 31-10.50-15's on it.I was wondering if anyone has ever ran an EJ in a transfer case subi,And what the results were?Im thinking the torque of the ej could help abit when in high range,but then as soon as you put it in low range does it destroy axles?

this is for EA82?if so I usually just bend the top portion of the radiator support out of the way just enough to slide the radiator out.Then bend back the support when your done.EA81 just slides right out the top

what about just removing the radiator? seems like less of hassle.Just catch all the coolant/water.

I took my subaru to a local mud bog.Out of the blue my SPFI conversion started acting up and would randomly stall the engine then it wouldn't fire again for a long time(like 30 minutes).When it ran I was easily outclassing the other 4's.Then it would stall out and I would loose.I will take the harness out and inspect every wire to see if I am intermittently making contact with something.Not to mention pull the dash to eliminate any such problems. As for killing my engine,I had my airfilter mounted back in the spare tire bay so I thought it was reasonably protected.After the first mud race it was so full of mud that it started pulling the mud through the filter and into the engine which is what I think caused the first stall.After that it cranked like I had no compression.so I pulled the intake hose and it was running straight (filtered) mud into the engine.I pulled the plugs and all four had liquid mud on them.So I cleaned them out and re-assembled the engine.I got it to start by pull starting it.It smoked alot of oily smoke out the exhaust whenever it was running.Got it idling and I think I started hearing a faint knocking sound.I tried to drive it around to where I could load it on the trailer and it stalled again.Try as I might I could crank it would fire for about a second then stall again.Still havent been able to get it to fire.it won't even fire when pull starting anymore.Great. I will clean everything up then start taking the engine apart and see if it is salvageable.I think my next engine I might stuff some EA71 pistons in with the SPFI.Then run a snorkel. owning a 4x4 is definably a labor of love.As of right now: my engine is dead,im having wiring issues,and the right front caliper/rotor/pads are messed up because at some time before the mud bog a caliper bolt came undone.

how did the plugs look?were any really clean?

whats with the window message?

I like it!I like it ALOT! the tractor tires not the funeral bit...

not true.the Body lift on a subaru spaces the engine,tranny,suspension,etc that much much further away from the body so you can fit bigger tires,But won't actually increase your clearance with out the bigger tires.However the suspension lift,forces the the tires away from the body for an increase in ground clearance. For a 5" lift with 1" suspension lift you will need to find some pipe that will fit over the rubber section of your strut top-hat(the rubber section sitting through the body).Use some thick wall pipe 1/4" min if you are going to offroad it.Then some 3/8" or 1/4" plate for for the mounting pads.As for the design itself: piece of pipe big enough to fit over rubber bits on top hat with the ends cut at about 7*,then weld on the mounting pads.To clarify the pipe is vertical with the ends angled in.That should get you in the ballpark,but you may want to leave enough material on the pads to make some adjustments to bolt holes if camber isn't quite perfect. BTW to all those just screaming search: that actually makes it harder to find some thing because then people have to wade through tons of posts just saying to search for it instead of a couple explaining what it is...

I would say 4" to fit those tires,but then I am not sure how much outback struts lift the car.IIRC they lift the car about 2" so then a 2" strut bottom lift?

all else fails unbolt the control arm from the body,disconnect the swaybar(or toss it).everything else can stay connected then it will be easy to get the strut blocks in...

Yea Im planning on putting a window in there.Although there isn't much hurry.Just as long as I put a window in before it starts getting cold... haha

1993 Subaru Legacy FWD sedan a couple weeks back the right front wheel bearing on my car died.It was making noise and if I jacked the car up there was alot of play.All the other wheels were fine which I thought was odd but I told that is reasonably normal.So I tore down the car and found out that the bearing had been wearing the hub away so the hub was shot.I went down the junkyard and the only thing they had was a hub of a 97 lego with abs,but it would fit my car and came from a donor with only 120K miles compared to my cars 170XXX.It had no play.It was perfect when I installed it but lol and behold not a week later it started making noise again.I had to drive on a 4 hour trip the next day(8 hour round trip).It made it back without any problems other than the wheel bearing/hub getting progressively louder with each mile.Now it has a very loud constant drowning sound so by now I know the hub is shot.So I am going to find a good hub then press in new wheel bearings.However,before I do that I would like to know what would cause a bearing to just fail like that in a short amount of time?I mean the new bearing was perfect then failed less than a week later in city driving.