Uberoo

I wouldn't have been able to test stuff because the car is apart. the dash and all its switches is in the back seat, as well as the instrument cluster. BUT, I found out that #1 is the seat belt warning system from orielly auto parts web site. #2 is the fuel pump control unit,but my fuel pump is ran by the relay on the SPFI harness. #3 is the turn signal relay. and #4 is the headlight relay according to crazyeights so 1&2 get nixed. thanks everybody.

I have an 83 Gl wagon.It has a EA81 with a SPFI conversion.A while back I started having proplems where the car would just die on me for no reason. So I pulled the dash and the harness. So I could fix the harness and better mount my ecu. Turns out a wire on the engine side of harness had slipped out of its wire loom and rubbed a hole through the insulation. anyway for as long as Ive had the car several relays have always been dangling from the dash above the pedals,so while the dash is out its probally a good idea to remove some of those relays. First up: second one,it has a mitsubishi logo on it: third: and finally the forth: all of them are near the pedals or steering wheel.Thanks in advance.

It sucks getting a flat in the middle of nowhere out wheeling.Happened to me once and I had to leave my car over the night.Came back up the next morning with a truck,trailer and a spare.then the trailer got a flat...

you can use accord front springs from like an 89 with AC for stiffer springs in the back as well. for the record, the car that I had those springs on had a 1" suspension lift. tempo springs up front and accord springs in the back.. note: my tempo springs came from a V6 tempo so that might explain why a coil had to be cut off.

how about this?I now have a different EA81 in there,and its fuel injected but other than that its stock..and it has a hood.

cool vids.is there no sound or are my speakers broke?

Yes, I used the tempo springs on my Ea82 wagon with the EJ22. I cut one coil off and it still lifted the front an inch. Even with the EJ22 up front. tempo springs are great on offroaders if your adding steel bumpers,winches,and EJ22's But it would certainly stiffen up the ride and remove any sag. for a stock replacement you might need to cut 1.5 or 2 coils off the top.

Cut the radious rod in half.then find a piece of tube that fits snug over the rod then weld it solid with how ever much length you need. when I put on EA82 control arms and struts and axles on my EA81 I extended the radious rod 1.5"

ok, how much more travel is possible with EA82 DOJs on a Ea81 shaft?

For an 8" lifted creature what did you do for rear shocks?On my 8" lifted EA81 I was trying to fit some ford explorer shocks that a friend gave me.Then I test fitted them to my car.They have the correct lenght but they would only have 2" of down travel before they would bottom out.seems like that would kill alot of the cars ability offroad.So what did you all use for shocks on your lifted beasts, did you find a junkyard part,order some new ones, or just space the shock away from the body? eventually I would like to run hybrid stretchy axles but for now I could just run limiting straps so I don't over extend the axles. Thanks in advance. also what is a good shock size to run with stretchy axles, at least as far as travel goes?

I know that.I said photo"chop" not photo"shop". So why did they stop?

why did the sweet photchops stop?

its fairly easy to strip the harness down. as your removing the harness from the doner vehicle cut any wires and connecters that are not related to the engine IE headlights,turn signals,heater core wires,etc. once you strip the harness most of those cut wire will just drop out of the harness. pull the fuse box from the doner along with the harness it may be usefull later. THIS is VERY important: In the process of removing the wires from the harness that you cut while removing it from the car the wire may merge into other wires.Cut the wire off BEFORE(or after depending on your prespective) the merge and leave the other wires in the merge alone. so if your following a wire and it merges cut that wire off at the merge, but leave the connection with the other wires at the merge intact eventually you will wind up with wires that go from the computer to the engine senors,and some various wires from the computer that got cut. some of those wires are for things like AC(if you didn't want the AC and cut the harness at the AC componets),most of those wires might be stuff you have to feed power to,so don't cut them short near the computer unless you are 100% sure that wire is not needed for your setup.IE AC or automatic transmission wires if going into a manual... BTW I do happen to have a stripped harness that will fit a 91 EJ22.PM me an offer if interested.the harness is setup to go into a manual transmission vehicle with no ac.

Im not familar with how subaru MPFI is setup but couldn't you pull the fuel rails connect the electronics and fuel lines to the rails then turn the key on with the injectors pointing in a bucket to see if they leak?

could always slot the holes where the strut mounts up top and beat the sheet metal to clear.would be a shame not to use those nice axles you have...

Ive managed to get the axles to come out by: beating the hell out of it with a hammer(like a crackhead,hard and fast) while turning the axle.Then spraying alot of penetrating fluid on it.then some more beating... Ive heard that if you drive out the roll pins and drive around the block for a while it will loosen them up a bit.may need to put it in 4wd and launch it hard,and floor it around corners...

I think it should be finished but do away with the nissan frame.instead build a subframe that conforms to the car much better then mount the nissan stuff to that. Looks great other than I don't like the "dual bumper" setup alot of vehicles set on different frame get.

ive been so busy with school lately i haven't had a chance to do much of anything lately.ive hardly even been n the forums... maybe latter today i can get some posted.sorry about the lack of pictars.

looks good but it might be worth replacing the rear bumper mounts with something a bit more substantial if your going to use the rear bumper as a recovery point. Oh and add some big rubber mats for mud flaps.Gotta keep the PO's happy.

are the bumpers getting painted?

I just finished up doing a 8" transfer case lift on my 83 EA81 wheeler. My stock exhaust needs to be modified to fit,but I don't have access to a welder anymore unless I can drive the beast somewhere to have an exhaust put on. I need to know a minimum safe length for the Exhaust "headers" so I wont damage the exhaust valves. thanks in advance. I can deal with loud,I have a problem with sucked/burned/warped valves.

the fuel pump relay could be starting to die.which would intermittently kill the fuel pump.

I used to run my 235/75/15's at about 25-27 psi for in town driving.with my tires they "looked about right" at that psi.the sidewall wasn't squished and the tread pattern under the tire was flat. but then I was probably 2400 lbs with my striped out and cut EA81... I bet 35 PSI in my tires would be one rough riding sun of a...

You win. Im too po for a video camera other than the cheapo one on my cell phone. My bad,I thought you cared about tires and were just makinging it up regardless but seeing as they are old AT's BURN AWAY then.

I have a similar idea on how to fix mine.I plan to cut off the studs from the mount then drill all the way through and run a big bolt through the entire thing. the studs are M10x1.25 right?