Uberoo

remove sway bar

pictars?

you think thats bad ive forgotten how long ago I had a functioning muffler.

Heres mine.Its alittle more broke than usual. I just got back from an offroad party up north. While I was up there: I exploded a rear axle cup trying to drive around a mega broke jeep buggy thing,When that happened I had to get pulled off a rock to turn around and go down the trail that pull swung my passenger side into the front end of the jeep buggy-putting a massive dent in my rear passenger door and breaking my right taillight. I had these shock mounts for the rear that I bought at an offroad store,both of them broke, so Im gonna return them and build some mounts that are much stronger. then at some point I broke the other rear axle(didn't explode it though).So my car is all sorts of broke right now. Specs: 83 Subaru GL wagon removed the roof after the C pillars 8" lift EA81 SPFI legacy radiator 5 speed DR Nissan transfer case 4.11 diffs out of a legacy,the rear one is welded 31 10.50 15 mud tires both rear axles are broke,This pic is just the rear diff mount. up front showing my skidplate. worst thing about breaking that stuff was I had spare parts,just they didn't make it into the truck when I left lewiston.

YA ITS ALIVE!!!!! finaly got the motor running in my transfercase lifted rig. its wierd. I now have traction issues in RWD with the 31's,before I stalled in FWD with the 235's...

Got all the leaks patched up now I can't get the damned thing in time so it will start.Closest ive gotten in about an hour of fiddling had it hitting on two cylinders, while the other two were fighting the other ones...

just fixed another crack on the back of the block,near the oil fill tube. Are the heads prone to cracking if water freezes? also what is the best way to drain all the water from an engine so I don't have to do this again.

so turns out that the block cracked as well near the disty.I ground out the crack with my dremel,and Im gonna try to fix it with JB weld.Hopefully that works, if I can ever get water to stop seeping from the crack...

Are there any other freeze plugs other than the 6 under the valve covers?Pulled the valve covers and one plug from the driver's side was popped out and two from the passenger side were popped out.So before I try to fill it with coolant again I need to know if any more plugs exist.

if one of the freeze plugs was cracked or broken how would that explain the water in the intake?

that little bit of water did freeze the water pump solid though.

So I had this "good" EA81 engine.I ran it before for a little bit but never with any coolant. yesterday I filled it up with coolant to drive it. took 2 gallons of antifreeze and 2 gallons of water.I never measured or paid attention to the coolant capacity,but 4 galloms seemed a bit extreme. so anyway I go to start it and water comes out of the intake,exhaust, and oil fill cap simultaneously. So after a few choice words.I drained the milkshake out of everything.not to mention pulling the plugs and cranking it over to get all the water out. before I ran it with no coolant it ran just fine for the limited time I had it running.after I drained everything and put some old oil in it ran fine after all the electronics dried out. Could a massivly blown intake manifold gasket have caused this?I just swapped on my SPFI manifold and I used new dealer gaskets,could one or both of them have not seated correctly or something? also when it ran after all of this it blew lots of emulsified oil out the tailpipe,I didn't run it long enough for the smoke to clear out so that may be related to water in everything,but I thought it might be worthwille to mention. I am at a loss as to what could have massively failed on the engine. it would have to have a massivly blown headgasket for the coolant to go into the oil and the combustion chamber that quick.A massive leak like that would certainly drop the compression enough to be noticable.The engine didn't run like it had low compression either before or afterwards. cracked block or heads? possible but a crack affecting the oil, coolant, and intake?seems a bit unlikely.Not to mention that such a crack would also cause a noticeable drop in compression. Badly blown or not sealed intake gaskets?seems possible, water would leak into the intake,fill the combustion chambers, then backfill up the intake until the top of the intake where the PCV hoses are and drain into the oil.Thats the only explaination I can come up with.Even then I saw no leakage occuring on the outside of the intake gaskets. In the times I ran the engine with no coolant it never got warm or even close. I would be very suprised if the total time of all the times the engine ran with no coolant added up to a minute -thirty.not to mention it wasn't reved during that time.Basiclly enough to varify that the spark plugs were set right on the distributor and to drive it on a trailer was all the engine ever ran.When it drove on the trailer it was -10*f outside.. any other ideas?Thanks in advance.

turns out the seal got some oil or something on it and it expanded alot.Once I got that taken care of it went right in.

the last time I saw it, it still had a body.

Any ideas why might be causing it get hung up?One of my plans to get it together backfired and the clip lock broke,and it still wont go in.

where did you unplug the vaccum line?

No, I didn't change the manifold, I changed engines under the manifold. I can't think of any reason why it wont go back together.Its like I unplugged something and now it wont go back together. didn't chnage any of the components.theres no debris in the connector and the pins are straight so Im a bit lost.

EA81 with a 2 in suspension lift eats axles like candy.Ive always heard that the EA82's could take that sort of angle much better,and that a 2" suspension lift on an EA82 was fine.

On an 89 SPFI setup there are two main connectors that connects the intake manifold harness to the rest of the wiring harness.For some reason I just can't seem to get the large connector to click together.I can get the connector together and almost connected but I can't seem to get the final 1/8" or so pushed in far enough that the connector will lock.Its not a question of slack, I have plenty of that.All the pins look straight and there isn't any debris in the connector so Im a bit stumped as to why this connector wont go together. never really had this much trouble with a connector before,Ive been fusing with the connector for about 10 minutes now.For some reason it will not push in far enough to click together no matter what I try.

the lift angle is 7.5* because the stut mounting plate and its corespeonding body mount is angled at 7.5*.If you don't angle blocks or offset the bolts then the outside of the tire gets pushed out, like this \ /.with the offset it lowers the strut vertically. if your not set on 3" you can run 2" suspension lift on a EA82 for a long time without too many issues.And a 2" suspension lift does add clearance even if you don't run bigger tires.it raises the crossmember up 2". a 2" suspension lift on an EA82 has like 8 total pieces. 6 2x2 sections for the front struts and some flat stock for the rear..

Im in the process of finishing up a Tcase lift.

its an old thread but I might as well throw in my $0.02. It is really fun driving subaru's offroad just from the reactions you get when you make it up/threw some crazy obstacle. Ive driven more capible rigs offroad before.They are just no fun because they arn't challanging. Just drive the damned thing up the trail without any real regard to line or tire placement.With subaru's its different.Its alot like playing chess and I like that.gotta pick your line and place your tires carefully or you will get stuck or break something. will a subaru outwheel everything,not even close.although it is fun to make it to the top of something only to find out that several jeeps/toys/chevies etc with much bigger tires and more money into them had problems with,and you just waltzed right up something..

facebook wont let me see the video without an account. Sad face.

a 5 speed DR takes 2.8 quarts of 75-90 GL-5 oil or hypoid gear oil of the same rating right?

Needs MOAR lift!