Uberoo

Are pics in front of my house ok?My subaru is still covered in mud from the last outing,but the motor is blown,and its not pretty...

nice wagon BTW clear out your PM box.

if only it will stay puffed out.looks like an emblem underneath the skin...

Jb welded worked for a about a weekend then started slowly seeping water. I found a different engine because that engine wont stay in time no matter what I do.checked the distributor,the distributor drive gear on the crank,verified lock key is in place,verified rotor screw is in place and locked where it should be,etc. just picked up a long block that has 16 valves,displaces 2.2L,and only had 146K on it.Car it came out of slide into a ditch or something and bent 3 control arms and popped the air bag...

Oh ok thanks.

Ive used legacy studs on my EA81.I think the only difference between the studs is the length between some of them.

with a stock EJ22 you will have more than enough power even at idle that you shouldn't bog out even in the mud.A ej22 was designed to motivate a much larger and heavier car than the GL's before.On my EJ swapped 87 GL it made FWD pretty much useless until 4th gear.Like I said I could be driving at 25 mph in 3rd gear (like 2000 rpm) and punch the gas and incinerate the front tires. your buggy is so light that even on pavement in 4wd it might not hook up until 15 mph with a EJ22 if you launch hard... in the mud it should have enough power to keep your tires spinning even in that wet cement you call mud. the difference between a stock tired EA81 with a crapatchi and EJ22 is amazing.Pretty much twice as much power at any RPM as your EA81.

I have a stripped EJ22 harness and computer sitting in my garage,but its been so long since I stripped it that I forgot what year range it will work for.I think it is an early EJ22 harness because it only has 2 connectors for the engine on the left side instead of the two larger connectors + one small connector on the latter ones. so what year range legacy uses the two connector setup on the left side? Thanks in advance.

I thought the torque spec on that nut was 1/4 turn before the threads start stripping out?

car is in ruebins ID

when I was inspecting the distributor I looked at the drive gear down the hole where the disty went.It looked good.I even put the disty in without a cap just to see if the rotor was spinning...everything looks good. is the drive gear an integral part of the cam or was it pressed on or held on with a roll pin? Im just lost how a purely mechanical engine like a EA81 that has everything driven by gears and pushrods could have the timing slip.

I will pull the valve cover off when I get a chance and look at the gear.Right now the subi is at my friends house some 45 miles away because that is where it was towed to. Is there a roll pin in the cam gear that might have sheared?

the screw in the rotor is tight. cap is fine and the pin holding the distributor gear in place in fine if I grab the disty gear and the rotor and can move them maybe 1-2* as far as how much its jumping, anywhere from 90* out to 270* out.

Snow tires work great in gravel. other than the fact that they disappear into nothing in about 3 months in the summer...

do you have the O2 sensor and the knock sensor hooked up yet?

I have an Ea81 in my offroad toy.It has SPFI.Lately it seems to be jumping the timing at the distributor.Car will run fine and then all of the sudden it started running on two cylinders and backfiring through the intake.Check timing and it was way off.So readjust timing.ran for 2 minutes then back to two cylinders firing and backfiring through intake.I readjusted the timing again and now I haven't gotten it to start yet.I got it to "run" by pulling it with another vehicle.It would "run" only when it was gear.I could rev the engine up about 500 rpm from where it was being towed at but it would die if I took it out of gear. The teeth on the distributor are fine,the roll pin holding the distributor gear to the disty shaft is fine,the rotor is on tight,and the gear that drives the distributor is fine. Is the engine fixable or do I need to go on the hunt for another engine?

proper tools for the job are always better.I hate having street performance tires on a car in gravel.They feel like they offer no grip on the gravel.So confidence is way low so speeds are lower as a result.Thats just the way things are though. a gravel rally tire is crap on dry pavement,a performance summer tire sucks in gravel,a snow tire sucks at everything except in snow,a dry tire sucks in the wet,etc,etc...

I got a reckless driving ticket once and it was a $500 fine.Some counties may be different.so could be reckless. 10-15 over possibly could be $225 if not cited as reckless.excessive acceleration is out because you were all driving old subies. So maybe racing? So what DID you guys get hit with?

nice brat.Looks pretty clean.its worlds cleaner than my old 84 brat. I got rid of my my brat because it seemed cursed.Mine kept eating its engines.

I used to live in pocatello.about 7 years ago now I think. regarding any question about your GEN 1 brat-the best forum would be the historic forum, seconded by the older gen forum because some stuff crosses over. while a 1980 brat is technically older gen most of the powertrain belongs in historic-ie EA71,single range 4wd...

pictars?

I live in lewiston so if you have any free time feel free to swing by.Right now my only subaru is my offroad toy,then I have an old datsun as a rally beater/DD.Anyway if you want to come by and learn abit more about subaru's or talk about whatever...Just send me a PM after you post a few more times or send a visitor message..

is it still gonna be EJ powered?

When I set it in there I bashed out the floor as much as I could to get it to sit higher.But the T case is sitting lower than it could be because I didn't cut a hole for the breather to go through.not to mention I set it way far back after the end of the seat mounts, So I could probably move it forward about 4-6 inches and up 3".Right now the T case is about 12-13" off the ground. its set far back because I set the input flange on the transfer case about an inch behind the seat mounts,because I didn't know that the U joint for the big nissan stuff would fit in the subaru tunnel. I probably can rework it and the sheet metal above it to at least get the transfer case level or slightly higher than the front diff.

Anyone have any pics of how and where there Tcase is in there subarus?I have mine in, but its sitting too far back and way too low.So now I seem to be dragging it through the mud.As it sits right now it is about 15" from the rear diff.It sits lower than the front diff and higher than the rear diff.Its a nissan transfer case so the handle in 2HI sits right at the back of the cubby in between the front seats.I am thinking of reworking the mount tomorrow, to raise it up and bring it closer to the middle of the car. I am looking for any suggestions for this that doesn't involve making new seat mounts.So if anyone has any pics of how there Tcase was set in place it would be helpfull. My car is an 83 wagon with 8" of lift. in this pic you can see where my transfer case currently sits. EDIT: in the last couple of hours Ive been looking through member's pics with T cases.So far all ive been able to find is turbone's hatch has the T case mounted in the center of the car and pretty high up,but no indication of how much bashing or cutting was needed to get it there. I looked at some pics of subarubrat's 12" lifted brat, but the transfer case seemed to be mounted very high up, or simply was not mounted in the side pics I could find.. I looked through roonater's gallery and couldn't find any side pics or any pics that showed the existence of a T case.So good job there hiding it like that.